The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Drag Link

Kingpin replacement went well as well as I could planned. The original pins were worn about 0.015" on the ends and the bushings had about 0.020" wear from the pins. One bushing was completely worn through and the pin was in contact with the spindle.

Now that the wheels only have 1 degree of freedom, I am trying to cost effectively remove any steering play. From what I can tell most of play is coming at the ball joint between the pitman arm and the drag link. The ball is a little worn (less than 0.007") at the contact points. I tried to just tighten the threaded end piece, but that throws out the slot for the cotter pin.

I found a drag link repair kit, but it was labeled for 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. Are they a different the 1 tons, or will these work?

http://www.classicpartsusa.com/product/ME691-T_1948/1948_Truck_Parts_Suspension_and_Steering_Parts

http://www.classicpartsusa.com/product/ME180-DL_1948/1948_Truck_Parts_Suspension_and_Steering_Parts

Or, would I be able to shim between the threaded end and the and the ball pocket on the drag link? This should allow me to tighten it up a little more and keep the cotter pin lined up.

I would try the drag link repair kit before touching the ball studs. According to the Chevrolet parts book, the seats are the same through all the comercial trucks.

I was thinking cut a new slot or drill new holes but isn't there a spring inside somewhere? wouldn't that take up the slack? Have you cleaned all old grease and maybe dirt out. Could something be binding the threads. If I remember right I used to tighten the adjustment screw until I ran out of threads and the cotter pin was past and not in contact the plug because it was in too far. I guess what I'm saying is the replacement parts wore a lot faster than the ball. When the steering ends its travel I have found that it compresses in a little at those ends. On another thought If your steering is very tight you could be getting compression at those places which would look like play too.

Have you checked the spring? They are known to break & then you cant get an adjustment. If the ball is out of round you will need to adjust it snug with the wheels turned & it might be a little loose on center. Have you clened around it? There might be another set of holes for the cotter pin.

I tore the entire thing apart, cleaned, and re-greased. No broken spring, and everything looked to be in tact.

I have a lot of sheet metal off the front and have the unique scenario where I see the drag link while turning the wheel. I can have the wheel centered and watch the pitman arm move while the drag link stays in place.

If I tighten the end screw about 1/8 turn past the cotter pin slot the problem goes away. My first thought was if put a shim between the ball seat and end screw it should allow me the tighten everything and still line up with the cotter pin slot.

RL, the only thing that would allow movement if all is tight would be the spring compressing, maybe they are supposed to do that. All I know is, I can very well remember thinking similar thoughts years ago and while having someone else move the wheel while I felt just how much it was moving around in the slot, BAD IDEA! lots of pain! That was about 1979, I don't remember what I did. I know I didn't file or grind anything. But I can still feel that pain! PS don't tell anyone, Jim D

I guess a lot of wear could produce that situation. Usually the ball will be egg shaped if it is worn and sometimes there will be a groove in it. I think if you tried replacing the other parts and it didn't do the trick then it would be time to do the balls. I believe the two spacers are different and someone before you could have put the wrong parts in there.