The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop '55 2nd Series 3100 New Clutch Grinding Noise

Hi Guys - Kind of a long title, but I want to be specific. I've had this truck since '87, when I dropped an early '70s 350ci 4-bolt main in with the original 4-speed transmission. No problems for past 25+ years. The clutch finally gave up after many, many, good years. So I bought a new RAM Muscle Car Clutch Set 92762 from Summit described as a "Clutch Kit, Muscle Car, Organic, 1 1/8 in.- 10-Spline, 11 in. Disc" and took it to my local mechanic to install. Other than the engine and clutch, everything else on the truck is pretty much original. When I got it back, it made a grinding noise with the clutch disenganged, so I took it back. He said that the throw-out bearing that came in the kit was not as "tall" as the one he took out, so he put the original back in as it "felt fine". I'm thinking, "Why are you telling me this now?" So we find a new bearing that looks like the original, and he puts it in. Now the grinding sound is worse, and the mechanic has no idea what to do next. I realize now (after $850) that I should have taken it to a transmission guy instead of a general automotive shop. Certainly others have experienced this before ... how did you fix it? Thanks for your help. Signed, Desperate Dave

Did you compare the pressure plate and clutch disc to the original parts that came out of the truck? It almost sounds like the clutch disc is in backwards and hitting the flywheel bolts?????

No I haven't. The mechanic isn't sure what he did with the old clutch parts. He said, "I thought I put the parts in a box and gave them to you", but he didn't. That was the first clutch I ordered which was only 10.5 inches. They claimed the old one was 11 inches.

Can I tell if it's installed backwards by looking from below? Once in gear and rolling, everything works & sounds great. It's only when I press the clutch in, and not all the time. But if it is quiet, all I have to do is rev the engine a little, and it starts "growling" again.

won't be backwards if it works as you say, and 10.5 or 11" doesn't really matter as long as you got the whole kit, they came with either originally, but there may still be a mis-match somewhere with an old 4 speed and aging clutch fork parts

a trans shop wouldn't be any different, they're heavy on automatics nowadays, not old school clutches, you maybe just need older mechanics with way-back experience .... I'd suspect defective Chinese parts [throwout] and/or possibly worn clutch fork, maybe slightly oversize pilot bushing allowing the input shaft to wobble .... I've had similar noises with new clutch parts - too bad you didn't just get a correct clutch kit from NAPA, they have a good warranty, just took the whole works back and got new .... of course you're stuck with paying someone to do the R&R

Bill

Your discription of the noise your clutch is making leads me to believe you may have a throwout bearing issue. As you depress the pedal the TO bearing relieves the clamping force of the pressure plate and is spinning to match engine speed. The noise (growling) could be the bearing or maybe the TO bearing is making contact on the pressure plate in the wrong area. The TO bearing and clutch fork are the only things moving. I did see one time that a new pressure plate and old fork rubbed. There should be a inspection cover on the bellhousing. Take a look inside. Good luck.
Ron

You should use the TO brg that comes with the kit. The older clutches had springs that were recesed in the cover.They took a long TO brg. The newer clutches & most replacements have the springs extended to the surface of the cover. They use a short TO brg.