The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starting the engine for the first time

My 1940 ton and a half has been sitting for about ten years. I am changing the plugs wires putting fresh gas in (after draining any left in the tank of course). New battery installed. Changeing the oil. Putting new hoses on the radiator etc. Adding fresh anti freeze. What have I forgotten anything? Coil maybe? Points? All advice is much apprecated. Thanks guys (Not a mechanic) Ron

I would definitely check out the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires (especially if cracked or dry rotted at all). It also wouldn't hurt to spin the oil pump to prime the engine before starting it. Good luck.

I usually hold off on the antifreeze until after it's running. You never know what you will find leak-wise, both internal and external.

TrucksTV had an episode recently on starting an old vehicle. He recommended new points, condenser, wires, cap, rotor and plugs. I've always inspected those items,and replaced when necessary.

Rather than spinning the oil pump with a drill, I will usually pull the sparkplugs, turn off the fuel, remove the valve cover and spin the starter until oil comes out the rocker arms. It saves removing the distributor.

Hi sixwheeler! That's exciting to think about getting that truck going after 10 years or so.

Stevejumper and Fred T have good ideas for you, and if you're not inclined to pull the distributor to spin the oil pump, Fred T's idea is good and one I'd probably go for. I think I would put some WD40 in those cylinders too when you first spin it over.

Looking forward to hearing how that engine runs! Also photos of that 'sixheeler'

Good luck. George

I fired up a 49 suburban over the weekend that had been sitting at least 15 years. I hooked up my lawnmower gas tank straight to the carb, filed the points, Shot a squirt of 30 weight in each cylinder and what do you know it fired right away. After a little smoking it idled and ran great. I put 3 cans of brake fluid through the system to get the crap out. I let it sit overnight before I put any pressure on it to let the seals soak it in and drove it the next day. Ran great till I hit the uphill driveway and my little tank ran out of gas. It is always a thrill to get another one back on the road. I am always amazed how well these things can still be made to run after sitting in fields for so long.

Thanks one and all! Now I have to see the financial manager (read wife) to aquire funds to get all the stuff. And of course it snowed again! :mad: But I am getting there. I'll keep you posted, Ron

Snow? I'm already wearing shorts to work. It's been in the 60's this week.

After that long the gas tank is probably rusted. You may want to either stock up on cheap fuel filters, and learn how to replace them quickly along the side of the freeway - or get it cleaned out and sealed up.

Don't put gas tank sealer in before removing rust from the inside... My '48 Willys had that done, and now it's plugging up the filter with strips of the sealant material. I had to replace the tank.

60's? 80's!

-Boyo

Can you turn the engine by hand, all the way through? No matter where an engine stops, a few valves will be open, and those cylinders have a habit of rusting because of humidity getting into them. Putting a little Kroil, or other good penetrant such as Liquid Wrench in the cylinders will loosen any accumulated rust. Less chance of scarring the cylinder walls with rust buildup if you wet the walls down for a few days before cranking it up. Roll the engine over a few turns by hand before spinning the starter, just in case there's a saerious blockage. If it won't turn easily, NEVER try to pull-start one! Bent connecting rods or a broken crankshaft can result from that attempt!
Jerry