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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 206
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 206
so i put a 56 third in my 53 1/2 ton.

I have a few question before i call some one out to weld the rear.

1. do i need to fab any plaTES or is the guy just gonna weld right over the rubber on the swivel?

2. when setting the pinion angle, does the ground angle matter at all? Say I have a 2 degree slope on my drive way, so i subtract that at all or just the drive shaft angle, from the pinion angle?

3. this is in a 53 burb with the tank underneath, do i need to remove the gas take before welding?

4. do i want to add weight to the back of the truck when calculating angle, or just have it rested wih its own weight?

thanks guys!

Last edited by drew_vigil; 12/30/2012 10:52 AM.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
I don't know what your 56 axle looks like but:

1) Not good welding over rubber. It tends to burn, stink and disintegrate. Maybe you need these?? http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=2493

2) Your pinion angle is relative to your driveshaft. Doesn't matter if your truck is parked on the slopes of Colorado or the flat deserts of California.

3) I would only worry about the gas tank if it is leaking or your welder chooses to use it to clamp his ground to.

4) If you plan on having a permanent weight added to your vehicle, then that is a consideration. Otherwise, just rested with its own weight.

I hope this helps!

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,961
C
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,961
If the rear and torque tube is still intact, just measure the angle the factory gave it. That will save a lot of calculation. Angle finders can be bought for less then $25 at building supply places.

I would remove the rubber because it will it will burn. This will not only stink, but it could catch something on fire and you can't see what you are welding.

I have a some polished stainless steel that I use as a heat shield when I weld. But to be on the safe side, I would remove the gas tank. There is no sense in taking unnecessary chances.

Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,557
B
'Bolter
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I'll try to answer some of your questions.I'm sure the pros will reply soon.

1.My welder guy welded my pivots up solid both sides and anyplace it moved.You need to dig the rubber out with a screwdriver.I made the mistake of leaving it in on one side and it caught fire and dripped out.
It wouldn't hurt to use some flat stock and weld the pivot radius to it. Pivot Welded

2.You want the vehicle sitting on it's wheels with all its weight on the ground.I did mine on flat concrete,but i don't think it really matters.If the rear tailshaft of the transmission is 2 degrees, you set the rear end pinion angle at -2degrees . Imagine a laser beam shining out from the center of the tail shaft and the center of the pinion,the two lines should be parallel with each other.

3.It depends on the experience you have at welding.I would remove it,it's awfully close and if there is any vapors present,it won't be pleasant.

4.Just the weight of the vehicle sitting on it's wheels on the ground.

Hope this has helped.

Tim


1951 3100 Chevrolet
1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall
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ok so i have the out put shaft at 95' headed down. do i want my pinion pointed "nose up" to 95' or is it going to point "nose down" to 85 (90' being vertical)

. "Imagine a laser beam shining out from the center of the tail shaft and the center of the pinion,the two lines should be parallel with each other."
so it would be nose up then correct? if if was nose down the laser would shoot into the floor? heres a illistration i made to explane what im asking

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i465/bigdrewvigil/piniong_zpse1ce645c.jpg
thanks for all your guys help, ive never tackled this much

Last edited by drew_vigil; 12/30/2012 3:34 PM.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252


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