The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun King Pins

My king pins are pretty lose and I have been reading some of the previous threads on the replacement techniques...

This is the general order I came up with:

Press out King Pins
Press out Spindle Bushings
Press in New Bushings
Ream/Hone bushings to size (keeping on the same centerline)
Grease/Re-install

My question is, what locates the King Pin correctly in the axle bore? How do I know if I need to purchase a 0.010" or 0.020" oversized king pin?

Hy Redlegs48, the kingpin is held in place in the axle by a lock bolt, similar to the bolts that held the pedals to the crank on your bicycle. Once you get everything apart, you can measure the axle bore. Or you can try inserting a none worn area of the removed kingpin into the axle bore and see how sloppy it is, hope that helps.

Ok, I figured the lock bolt was there to keep the king pin in the correct position vertically.

What type of fit was initially in the axle bore, pres, slip, interference?
If I need to purchase an oversized king pin, what is the method for reaming the axle bore? ( I am hoping for a method where I can leave the axle on but I doubt that is possible)

Is there a reference sheet for the axle bore reamer? They call out tool KMO-226-1 or KMO-312-1, but I did not see any reference diameters.

I bought an adjustable reamer on eBay. It worked fine.

The specs for the reamers and king pins are at the end of the chapter.

Thanks.... I guess I have never made it to the end of a chapter.

I finally have enough time to get my King Pins done, but I ran into a problem. The old king pin is stuck in the axle bore. I had read that some guys were able to hit them out with a hammer, I tried that but did not want to swing to hard and damage something.

What else should I try?

use a penetrating oil

heat the old pin, without starting a grease fire

get a drift "punch/pin" that is smaller diameter than the old king pin, and whack it hard with a 5lb hammer

Is your axle off the truck? If it is, try to press the pins out. Or, take the axle to a truck shop and have them press it out (first, ask them what their charge for 15 minutes of work is - one shop told me "minimum charge for 1 hour" = $100).

I soaked them in penetrating oil, but most of it runs through the bushing then does not get into the axle bore.

Is there a clip some where that I could be missing?

Not if you are referring to a standard/original set-up 1948 truck.

Everything is standard. I would prefer to keep the axle on if at all possible. Is there a press for king pins, similar to one currently used for ball joints?

Yes, OTC mahes a hydraulic kingpin press you take to the axle.
Search online so you know what it looks like, then try to find one to borrow

I took my kingpins out with a sledge hammer. I used a wrist pin for a drift and I placed a large pie nipple around it for protection. I ended up damaging the axle bore causing it expand slightly. If you use this method, I would advise reversing direction as soon as it starts to move.

I tried the sledge hammer method, but I didn't want to use full force. I ended up putting my new impact wrench to use and taking the axle off. Calling shops in the area to get pricing.

If it is this hard to get them out what type of force is required to press them back into the axle bore?

Freeze the pin and you should be able to tap it in.

Are you going to fit/ream the new bushings in the spindles/knuckles or have a shop do that?

I bought a reamer/pilot on eBay that I planned to use on bushings.

ya know..... some time ago i posted this tech tip....

i am a firm believer in NOT hammering out kingpins.

Be careful as you ream them. I just did a set someone else goofed up, they didn't ream them in line.... pins didn't fit, a waste of a set of bushings.
Ideally the pin fits very snug but fits byhand in both bushings when tried individually, and when slipped through one and into the next it may be a tad tighter but still pissible to do by hand, might need a dowel and a few taps of a hammer to get it back out again.

On the removal I agree beating with a hammer is much less than ideal. Ive been using a hydraulic press when necesary for years now, much better method.

Grigg

I told my story so hopefully it wouldn't be repeated!

Is there something else, besides the reamer and pilot, that I need to keep the bushings in line?

Turns out a co-worker has access to a press so I can get them pressed out on Monday.

Nope, nothing more, just sneak up on the size.

An old retired Chevy mechanic told me to hit the sides of the axle next to the pin hole with a hammer. Of course I had the hubs, bearings, brakes and backing plates off. And the pin bolt out. Soaked it all down with penetrating oil. I rested the bottom of the kingpin on a punch standing up with the truck's weight pushing down. Then strike the axle with the hammer and the pin "climbs" out of the hole. It took about 20 minutes of hard pounding to get the first one out. The other side went a little easier.

that is EXACTLY how to do it.



i've seen guys really mess up axles

I posted this method on a popular hot rod forum and no one responded... favorably. Some doubted and were skeptical, and a few were abusive.

I just uploaded some pictures of the bushing reaming job I did recently.
https://picasaweb.google.com/118082...pgradeForOldGMTrucks#5830825476481803186

https://picasaweb.google.com/118082...pgradeForOldGMTrucks#5830825479930085762

See how the pilot (knurled part) centers the off side while reaming the other.
https://picasaweb.google.com/118082...pgradeForOldGMTrucks#5830825491564934866

Grigg

The pilot I have is a similar to the one you show.

Got the Pins out last night with no problem, but afterwards I thought of another question.

Is there a left/right to the axle, and or is there a top/bottom on the spindle? (Hindsight is 20/20)

Redlegs48.

You should be able to figure out top/bottom on the spindles/knuckles by putting them in place on the axle and looking at the angle of the knuckle.

I am not sure about the 1-ton, but the 1/2 ton axle has the steering stop on rearward side of the front axle . There is an alignment hole for the stop on the rearward side.

Springs taper in, only one way axle fits in the truck.

Answers my questions. Thank you.