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| | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,403 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 115 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 115 | I have finally gotten some work done on my cab. I had the cab blasted and painted with 2K etching primer and then a coat of 2K epoxy primer. Now that I have cut out some of the rot and installed replacement panels, what is the correct way to prime the bare metal from the weld and do I just apply the epoxy over the black coating on the patch panels?
I'm thinking I need to brush some etching primer to the bare metal area and then spray a good coat of epoxy over everything that is not already epoxy primed.
Kenny Martin Talladega, Ala Second place is the first loser - Ricky Bobby 1956 Chevy 1/2 Ton | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Have you checked with your epoxy maker for compatibility with etching primer? If not do that before you do anything else.
I use epoxy on bare metal, no etch.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | To add to Rick's comments, most etching primers use some form of phosphoric acid to give the paint some bite. However, some epoxies are not compatible with these acids and it will cause adhesion issues down the road. If all of your materials are from one manufacturer, you should not have an issue, but it would definitely be adviseable to check before going any further. I also use a direct to metal epoxy, no etching required. If your metal has been blasted, that is a good abraded surface for a DTM epoxy, where etch really isn't needed.
Regarding the black EDM paint, some will just scuff it up, and epoxy over it. Some will strip this coating off, and start from bare metal. Given its source from overseas and uncertain prep, I personally feel more comfortable stripping to bare metal, cleaning and prepping from there. Others may disagree, but rework costs more when you are doing work for someone else. I'd rather be sure of the substrate and adhesion. Although you would likely be safe with either. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 115 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 115 | Thanks for the insight for potential problems. Both primers I have are from the same manufacturer and are compatible
I like the idea of removing the black coating so that's most likely the direction I will go.
So far so good on using the store bought panels. In the not too distant future I will be jumping into fabrication of some pieces around the windshield. I see a lot of trial and error in my future on that
Robert I have read and appreciate your posts about metal fab.
Thanks
Kenny Martin Talladega, Ala Second place is the first loser - Ricky Bobby 1956 Chevy 1/2 Ton | | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | Kenny, hope they have helped out. BTW, there is a metalshaping event in your area every year near Huntsville....Search on Allmetalshaping for the Dixie Meet, normally held in Sept. Would be a good weekend full of metalshaping to hone your skills.  | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 115 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 115 | Thanks Robert. I will definitely look into that event.
Kenny Martin Talladega, Ala Second place is the first loser - Ricky Bobby 1956 Chevy 1/2 Ton | | |
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