The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Parking brake attachment at backing plate?

On my '52, the parking brake cable was attached to the drum backing plate on the outside of the plate. The parking brake cable mounting plate and (loose) "backing" plate were sandwiched together with a gasket between them. Then this assembly was mounted to the drum backing plate on the exterior side (side toward center of truck) of the backing plate.

My question is: Is that the proper way to mount the cable, or should the (loose) cable backing plate be inserted trough the cable hole in the drum backing plate and thus the two cable plates "sandwich" the drum backing plate? The gasket would go between the exterior cable plate and the drum backing plate. Which way is correct?

Edit: Going with the way the old part came off. Test fitted the other way and one of the plates interferred with a hump on the inside of the backing plate. the cable is going to get severly pinched.

David,

I have had to unclamp and reclamp the cable into a position that allows the metal cable-end to be further back in the hump in the clamp. Otherwise, the metal end of the cable is not completely inside the hump in the clamp.

I think this solves the problem you describe (if I understand it correctly).

Do you want me to post before/after pictures?

That does answer the question. Pictures are always welcome. The way the cable is made, it almost make you wonder if the design was intentional to fully clamp the cable sheath in place so it does not move or try to put stress on the bracket clamped onto the plastic sheathing cover. It works just clamped down, but looks like cr*p since the clamping plate wont sit flush/tight to the brake backing plate.

Also, I discovered the other (front) end of the cable wont fit into the frame clamp. I had to grind the ferrel down so it would pass through the clamp. The cable sheathing was too small to be clamped down tight. So, I plan on clamping down on the ferrel. The cables look nice, but just are not right.

Here is a quick and dirty web page that shows the cable "repinched".

Thanks Tim:

I was able to install the cables to the brake backign plate, but the cable plates distorted upon tightening them down (duh!). It will surely let excess water and debris into the brake assembly. I might have to remove and reclamp as you did for a cleaner looking install.

Update: I went ahead and modded the cables so the cable plates bolt up better. However, this caused the cable spring to be compressed and made it very diffilcult to attached the brake shoe lever to the cable. In hindsight, I would not mod the cable and simple bolt it up the way it comes. Or, cut a few coils off the spring (somehow). The cable itself seems to be of high enough qaulity, but it is not like original and is a compromise of sorts...like many other "replacement" parts we have to deal with on these trucks. I bet the Corvette guys don't have to put up with this horses**t!

Ok, I have advice: Do NOT do as Tclederman and I did in modding the cables. The position of the outer cable in the clamp is important. If you reposition the cable, you run the risk of your parking brake not fully releasing. When you move the cable sheath away from the brake shoe parking lever, you ensentially shorten the about of cable left to allow the brake lever to retract. End result is that the parking brake is always engaged. Now, this may not be a problem if you have worn shoes and drums, but with new shoes and drums, it is a problem. I had to redo my cable again and put them back into the original position. Afterward, attaching the cable to the brake shoe lever was easy and the shoes were positioned on the brake backing plate nicely (with modded cable, the shoes did not ever settle into a relaxed position). Hope this helps others in the future.

Thanks, for the report, David. The adjustment that I made works fine on my suburban. That was over ten years ago and the length of spring/coils might have been different.

If the recent cable that I made the adjustment on has a too-tight spring, I'll cut the coil/spring as you suggest. As I now recall, the spring on mine was quite tight. I'll reach that stage of reassembly next summer, if I am lucky. I hope it works - as you posted, leaving it as it came would provide opportunity for stuff to enter the interior.

I wonder if the parking brakes cables made by Inline tube are put together properly? They are not plastic-sheathed and look more like the original cables. Maybe I'll heed you warning (thanks again) and I'll get a set of cables from Inline tube.

I just checked the amount of cable ajustment and there is at least an inch of cable movement. I should have no problem with adjusting the cables.

The cables that I received are 91825 (BC91825, Brake Cable). That number is used for different brands of the same cable.

Nonetheless, if I was now looking for cables, I'd try the Inline tube stainless cables.

The cables we purchased may have been by different manufactures. However the ones on you webpage look exactly like the ones I purchasd from Classic Parts. Never-the-less, modding the cables was a bad idea for my truck and caused the parking brake to be partially engage with the clevis end disconnected. Basically, the threaded/clevis end was hard against the outer cable sheath and would not release the brake fully. Installing the cable as shipped worked fine other than not sealing tight to the brake backing plate.

I just looked at the cables from Inline Tube and I wish I knew of that place before I purchased the cables from Classic Parts. Here is a qoute from Inline Tube, and they are spot on: "Rear cables. This is an exact duplicate to the factory original cable with the correct spiral housing, rubber boots, and bracket ends. This is an exclusive Inline tube exact reproduction. Don't settle for black plastic coated cheap reproductions". Cables cost double that from Classic Tube, but IMHO would be worth every penny.