The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop AD front clip options

I have read the articles pertaining to the C10
front bolt-in being used for the AD trucks.
My question is if one is cutting the subframe
down the middle the 7/8" to avoid using the shims, can this be cut, say an additional one inch and then notch the frame that same amount?
Would this not reduce the track width needed to run a wheel with less offset.
Would this effect the steering geometry?
cheers

I don't see why not. You'll have to make sure your steering components can take up that much excess. Think about your center link and what has to be done with that, keeping in mind it is probably never a good idea to cut and reweld steering components.

Check if it's possible to buy a narrower center link. Since you're narrowing the subframe, why not start with a camaro or nova subframe, since you'll be doing a lot of fab anyways and these are narrower?

On the Camaro clips I've done, the front end is slightly wider. But that's only an issue with a lowered stance. A lot of it corrected with wheel offset. My current project is more of a sleeper. So I left the Burb at stock height with stock type wheels. I don't see much if any clearance issues with this set up and all the stock Camaro pieces stay in place.

Thanks;
With the 49 Burb purchase I got a 66 C10 shortbox frame with front clip and trailing arms susp. in the rear with 12bolt.
Thought this a good way to save dollars but when you add in power steering, disc brake conversion and complete rebuilt kits for front and rear you are into big bucks. Mustang 2 with 4 link in the rear is about $3500. in my neck of the woods.
cheers

Narrowing the center link can be done safely if a little forethought is used. Machine a step-down into the link at the place it's cut, and make a sleeve for the ends to fit into. Cross-drill and rivet the sleeve to the link in several places, then weld. We used narrowed front crossmembers on the dirt trackers pretty often, and they get more steering abuse than any street machine. Be sure to get the geometry right for the idler arm and the Pitman arm, and the steering and suspension should beat any of the hotrodders' pony car setups.
Jerry

Ditto. That's the way mine's done.

I worked for years as a race car fabricator. We were always cutting and welding on centerlinks and steering arms. Use a good welder and there should be no problems.

Here's some nice pic's on modifying the 63-87 clip.

We had a 54 with a 78 C10 Clip, loved the way the truck drove. Hated the way the wheels looked. It wasn't narrowed at all and needed deeper wheels on the front. I got in the habit of cranking the wheels to the right when I parked it to help hide it.
Mongo