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Fixing the old truck

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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
What's wrong with long threads? smile

More info the better and good to encourage discusion and get the detail of what has worked for others.

I want to know it's got a high probability of working before spending a couple hundred dollars and having to start over. That doesn't go over well with the other half!

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
G
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
I check in on this thread every now and then and seems like much of the same discussion over and over, nothing wrong with long threads though.

I understand wanting to do the research and get it right the first time, I do my best to do the same. many times it works, sometimes not. At some point you still have to do something though, can't research it forever.

If you're still not so sure what'll work trying stuff is the next step. Junkyard parts can be real cheap, and if it works rebuild it if necessary/desirable or replace with new.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jun 2010
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C
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 8
My $0.02,

Do NOT use a smaller bore mc than original mc, you won't get a good pedal and won't be safe. When switching to dual circuit mc and staying with 4 wheel drum manual do NOT use a power brake mc (shallow hole), use a deep hole manual brake mc. I made the $50 mistake of using a smaller bore mc, it stopped the truck but did not have a good pedal / not safe. You will bleed them brakes forever thinking its air in the lines, but it too small of a bore mc. Been there did that.


1949 Chevy 3800
1956 Chevy 6400
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
thanks. im down to using the .125 corvette master with residuals or whatever power master wbrown used.

grigg- i know you are right. i have a tendancy to draw things out especially if i know its gonna be a while till i can work on the solution....

cab and front fenders came off tonight! a little more tear down and its time to put everything back together!

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 381
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 381
I saw your photos Tj_M. You are a long way from getting this truck on the road. Get it all put back together and ready to drive then the brake issue can be dealt with. I thought you had this truck on the road. And...now that I see it's a dually that changes everything. Those rear brakes have 2 wheel cylinders in each wheel right?

Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 271
I'm pretty sure it's still 1 wheel cylinder per corner on a 1-ton.
manual


Maybe it's a bit ambitious but i'm hoping to have my frame ready to start bolting parts back on in a month and a half or so. With time for feedback on here and finding parts/shipping etc. I wanted to start talking now.

I'm not planning on waiting till it's close to driving to do brakes. I'll do them as one of the first few things after rolling chassis is clean. that way I have easy access for running brake lines.

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