The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop I got a 261

Okay I found a 261 with an 848 head already on it in a 56 4 door sedan at the boneyard today. I'm even happy with the price $175 complete.

Of course he stuck it to me on the bellhousing I wanted (T5 for my sedan) and an extra intake and exhaust (to send to Kansas Kustoms for splitting), but $300 for everything is acceptable.

Now I'm not sure if it runs or even turns over, but for that price, as long as it isn't cracked, I'll be happy.

If it has a big aluminum and orange filter on it with big fittings on the block, does that mean it is already full flow?

I figure I'll bring it home, fill it up with ATF and let it sit for a week before trying to turn it.

This means my 235 will be for sale in a few weeks.

Chris

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Chris
I am as happy for you as I can be. Just kidding! Good score, now if I can find one life will be good. The big fittings do mean its full flow. Unless I miss my guess, 58 was the first year for the full flow 261, so it looks like you have a 58-62 261. Tony or someone else more familiar with the 261 can confirm or deny the first year for the full flow.

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Yeah Lew, 58 is close enough.The Big filter with 1/2 pipe thread fitting on the block is a full flow 261.Check the block casting numbers .

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I got the casting numbers after a little work, it is still in a car.

37X9365 Where X is either a 3 or a 5. I didn't get a casting date, yet. The bosses above the starter and next to the distributor were caked with crud and I knew from the block number it was a 261 if nothing else.. I looked at my list that I was smart enough to take with me and that showed 58-62 261 (X=3)or 59 261 (X=5).


I'll be picking it up on Friday. I had actually passed this thing over a month ago when I saw it had an 848 head, something made me go back and check the block yesterday.

Chris


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Does it have the fabled ' hash marks ' or
'captain's bars' ? if so , where ? .

TIA ,
-Nate

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-Nate
Filth & Greed Imports
(the LAST honest VW shop)

You know, I have heard about these hash marks, but there was a fare amount of crud on the block. I have also heard that some have it and some don't and some 235s have it, too. That's why I checked the actual casting # on the block.

When I get it home, I will clean it up nice and get some digital pics. Maybe we can make a 261 identifiers guide.

Chris

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Nate, the hash marks are at the rear of the block, above the starter motor and on the other side of the block in the same place. Every 261 I have seen has them, but some people claim early PG 235 engines were marked the same.I have never seen a 235 with hash marks. The casting # is a better way to check it out.
Inverse, your casting # show a 60-62 261
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[This message has been edited by Tony (edited 04-19-2001).]

I looked at a '54 ton and a half who's motor had the captains bars. When I checked the casting # I was sorry to see it was a 235. I couldn't find many people(anyone) to verify this anomile could exist until I read the article on 261's at, I think, Carters. They talked about the '54 235 having captains bars. In short, as Tony say's, best to check the casting #'s.

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Thanx , guys ! I am 'on the hunt' for one of these 261 engines but I don't seem to be finding the 6 bangers in the huge core piles like I used to - they're really turning scrap over fast out here in la-la land these days .I have been looking for a 235 oil pan and haven't even found any BENT ones , used to be I'd find lots of complete engines for $20.00 , buy it & strip for good parts and trade/give away the residue . anyone know of any good places to look in So.Cal. ?

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-Nate
Filth & Greed Imports
(the LAST honest VW shop)

Okay, I brought it home yesterday, it has captain's bars on the passenger side where expected, haven't found em on the drivers side, yet. Confirmed it is a full pressure with an 848 head and a huge 1 barrel. Now the dilemma...

It turns free. Who thinks I should tear it down and who thinks I should bolt it in and see?

Can I test the compression turning it by hand? And if so, what tool do I need, there's not a big nut on the crank pulley for using a breaker bar.

Chris

P.S. I think I found another one. I'll get back to you on that.

[ 04-28-2001: Message edited by: inverse121 ]

For the compression test just hook up a battery to the Starter. You did say this motor was complete. I don't think you can have any type of reliable info from turning over by hand. Just my opinion.

As for installing or rebuilding. Well is the truck running with the engine that is in it? If it is then rebuild the 261. If not install and go for it.

Good luck

Don't know if you've read my rants about the local boneyard, but his version of complete and my version are 2 completely different things. :mad:

He picked it clean of starter, coil, distributor and generator. I wanted the bellhousing and he gave me the unwanted flywheel, clutch assembly and fork. :confused: Go figure.

I only have 6V starters laying around, so I need to go back and get the 12V starter from him to test the compression. Its tough to leave there without spending $300 (his magic number), so I'll need to figure out a few more things I want (I mean _NEED_) .

Chris

Dress it with 235 bits and run it on the ground after first seting the valves , timeing and oil change .

Everything I've heard says that you can use a 6v starter on 12v. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes you can use a 6 volt starter with a 12 volt battery. However not all starter teeth will mess with the flywheel, be careful you dont hurt the flywheel.
Tim

Yep I hate to grind up the flywheel with 6V starter, the flywheel and what I can see of the clutch and pressure plate look fairly new.

Okay I compression tested today, looks like I'm rebuilding...
1. 60
2. 120
3. 60
4. 100
5. 75
6. 110
Does the fact that the odd firing cylinders are all low mean anything to any of you?

Thanks,
Chris

Did you block the carb open? Did you squirt some oil in the cylinders first? Your compression readings may simply be the result of stuck rings or rusty valve seats and you may just need to run the engine for a few hours and the compression may come right back. Your engine might have sat with the odd cylinders valves partway open and you have weak springs or gum in there. I would install it and run it for a while and see how it is. Your valve guide seals may be hard and a may smoke but 100+ compression on 3 cylinders will be enough to get it started and then you can re-test it after it warms up.