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| | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 | I just started a restoration on a 1966 3/4 Ton (C25)Chevy Custom Camper and the rear brakes are completely locked. I've worked with drum brakes before, but not like these. The axle has the wheel mounting bolts attached to it, and the brake drum is behind it (it's late now, no good light, and I'll post a photo tomorrow). Anyone have experience with this kind of setup? | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | The 3/4 and 1 ton trucks use a full floating rear axle, which requires the axle shaft and bearings to be removed to allow removal of the brake drum/hub assembly. You will need a special socket to remove the lock/adjuster nuts from the spindle, its readily available from most parts stores. Here's a manual page that shows how it comes apart. The page shown is for a '55, but the '66 will be essentially the same.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 | Bill,
Many thanks for the assist. I'll be giving this a try tomorrow morning. I'll make sure to photo-document what I do....and post 'em here. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 | Bill,
Would you happen to have a photo of the tool I need to remove the lock/adjuster nuts from the spindle? I plan on hitting my local NAPA parts store soon and this would be a big help. By the way, when I unbolted the bolts holding in the axle...oil leaked out. So, I'm pretty sure the seal is gone as well. Best regards,
Craig | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | It is normal for lube to run out when you remove the axle. The bearings are fed from the rear end grease.
You will want to replace the seal after you pull the hub/drum.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 2 Moderated | | Moderated Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 2 | Craig, I just finished doing this on a 66 C20 I picked up a few weeks ago. The socket is just a big big socket with 8 teeth (I think it is 8) that fit into the slots on the nut. Cost about $10 at O'Reilly's, my NAPA store didn't have it. The oil leaking out is completely normal, it is open from the differential to the axle ends and it is designed that way to lube the bearings at the wheel hub. I had a tough time getting mine off, too. Make sure the brake shoes are not holding the drum on by loosening the star adjuster by going through the little hole in the hub. Set the hole at the 6 o'clock position and you can reach the adjuster. Then, if it is still stuck like mine was, I beat it with a hammer and it came off finally. You may have a threaded hole that you can insert a bolt into and force it off as well. Good luck. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 14 | Earl84,
Thank you very much for your advice! And, thanks also to Wrenchbender and Bill. I'll be heading out to my local NAPA store shortly to get some other parts...and I'll look for the adjuster wrench. My confidence in getting this job done was beginning to wane...but, now, I'm pretty sure I'll be able to do this. Best regards,
Craig | | |
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