The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Leaking Rear Axle

Hello folks-haven't been on here for quite a while due to working on 240Z. I tried searching but couldn't find my answer. My '54 150 is leaking diff oil into the rear drum (I think the truck is angry due to lack of use). I'm assuming I need to replace the rear axle seal, but the manual calls for some specialized tools to get the hub off. Are these tools really required or can something else be used.

Thanks for any input.

You probably mean the special socket required to remove the bearing adjuster and lock nuts? If so, you could take them off/reinstall using a punch, but doing that will risk not only damaging the nuts, but also will not allow for proper torquing of the lock nut. No real reason not to use the proper tool, GM trucks still use the same lock/adjusting nuts on full float rearends, the socket is readily avaialbe at any parts store or tool dealer.

What is a 150? Is that a 1/2 ton or larger truck?

The 150 is a GMC 3/4 ton.

Thanks, Longbox. I'll look for that socket at a tool store. So based upon my description, do you think that seal is the point of the breach?

I had the same problem. I hoped it was the wheel cylinder but it turned out to be the seal. Good luck.

Hello Longbox55, What is the torque on those nuts? and how would you torque them?

This article covers it for a 14 bolt axle. It should be the same for a HO52 since the outer hubs are basically the same.

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/chevy/1205dp_rebuilding_an_01_to_10_gm_rear_axle/

It says to torque to 52 lbs then, loosen to finger tight.

O.k. Boy I couldn't have been more wrong than I was in a previous post. I pulled my axle shaft off a little bit ago to see what was inside.

Step one remove the axle shaft retaining bolts with a 3/4" socket and pull the axle shaft out. 2- straighten the tabs on the star washer. 3- remove the outer nut. A tap with a punch or and axle nut socket will get it started, then just spin it out with your fingers. 4- remove star washer and remove axle key with a magnet. 5- remove inner nut, you can use the axle socket or the punch, but be careful not to damage it. 6- hub should slide right out. 7- remove seal with seal puller or screwdriver. 8- replace with new seal, drive in with seal driver or place block of wood over seal and tap into place with hammer. 9- Reinstall in reverse order.

BTW- The HO52 seal is the same as the 72-present 14 bolt full floats. You can get an axle nut socket from just about any Automotive store. The Performance Tool one I have needs to tabs filed down slightly to work correctly.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0412.html