The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay am I timing correctly (for truck not starting)?

I slowly crank engine until points open, then gap them at 0.020. Then I take out #1 plug, feel for most pressure coming from it with thumb when turning over engine, and consider that TDC. Then I put #1 spark plug/wire adjacent/above rotor. Then, of course, follow right firing order when connected rest of plugs

To make sure I have fire to coil, turn engine over and hold high tension wire from coil close to engine/ground, then open points...should see spark. To check fire to plugs, do same with plugs out but connected to wires (of course coil will be connected). Spark should jump from bottom of spark plug to engine (about 1/8 of inch).

How do I check points with meter? Or do I need meter to test points? thanks

If you ground the outside of the Spark Plug, the Plug will arc.

If your cap has a door on the outside, it's a Tach Dwell setting. like 32Deg, on a Tach dwell meter. running test and set points with allen wrench in the door. google: Tach Dwell test

If No door on the Cap set Points open by a feeler gauge.

Prime it.

Which engine are we dealing with here? Your method of establishing TDC is a bit too random- - - -once you get a puff of compression pressure, then you need to turn the engine until the timing marks align exactly. On the pre-1963 6-cylinder engines, there's a hole in the bellhousing just above the starter with a pointer in it, and a BB-sized ball imbedded into the flywheel. Those need to be aligned, or at least VERY close. The BB is hard to see- - - -most people take the sheet metal cover off the bottom of the bellhousing behind the oil pan, find the BB by cleaning the front surface of the flywheel, and put a dab of white paint on the ball. Then align it with the pointer after you feel compression with your thumb.

On a V-8 or a late-model 6 cylinder, the timing mark will be a machined line on the crankshaft front pulley which aligns with a numbered scale or a sheet metal tab attached to the timing cover. For initial starting, aligning the timing mark with the "0" or "TDC" number is close enough.

Set the point gap with the rubbing block of the point set on the highest point of the distributor cam. .020" is close enough to get the engine running.

Now comes the fun part- - - -with the timing marks aligned on the compression stroke, turn the distributor housing clockwise until the points close, and then turn it back CCW until they just barely open. One good way to establish when the points are open is to use an ice pick type test light with the pigtail lead attached to a good ground, and the ignition switch turned to the "run" position. Touch the pointed probe to the (-) or "distributor" side connector of the coil. With the points closed, the light will not burn. As the distributor is turned CCW, as soon as the points open, the light will come on. Lock the distributor housing down- - - - -the timing is set! Be sure to follow the proper firing order with the spark plug wires: 1-5-3-6-2-4 for a six, or 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 for a V-8, both in a clockwise direction. Start with the cap tower the rotor was pointed toward when the timing was set as the #1 spark plug position.
Jerry

yep, should have mentioned that....'50 216

great info Jerry (thanks for taking the time). One question, when I get the BB (I had long ago 'painted' it to show up) by slowly cranking the engine AFTER getting compression on #1 cylinder, won't that then take it off the highest level of compression. So I'm guessing that to be timed correctly, the highest compression level must coincide with BB pointed at pointer in bell housing.

I thought getting the highlest level of compression denoted TDC, and that using BB meant that dist. rotor could be placed over #1 or #6, meaning it could be 180 degrees off.

One more thing: What if BB never lines up with housing pointer
AT SAME TIME piston #1 is at highest position (highest compression)?

That's impossible, unless somebody has managed to bolt the flywheel on in the wrong position, and that would require some re-drilling of bolt holes. It's also extremely difficult to get the distributor 180 degrees out of time unless you ignore the compression pressure. To build pressure, both valves MUST be closed, so if the piston is coming up the cylinder on the exhaust stroke, no pressure can be developed because the exhaust valve is open.

If you want to be 100% sure the #1 cylinder is on compression, take the valve cover off, and watch the valve rocker arms on the #6 cylinder. (NOT #1) The exhaust valve rocker is the last one in line. Turn the engine, and watch as the rocker arm moves and the valve spring compresses. The valve will reach its maximum open point, and start to close (spring begins to relax). Just as the exhaust valve closes, the intake valve will start to open. (second valve from the back).

At this point, the #1 cylinder will be at top dead center on the compression stroke, ready for the spark plug to fire. Even if the timing marks happen to be inaccurate, an engine that's timed to fire the #1 plug when the #6 cylinder is in the "split overlap" or "rocking" position will run- - - -no doubt about it! BTW, #1 and #6 are "companion cylinders" on both 6 cylinder and V-8 Chevy engines.
Jerry

Once again, thanks Jerry.
Maybe the beat info ive gotten on stovebolt.

This person has posted this already and got specific advice already. Enough already!