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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 194
6
'Bolter
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i converted my 55 1st. to 12 volts months ago, but never wired the heater until now. i wired it up and it seems to work fine but the switch gets hot and that happens quickly. does this mean i need a voltage reducer and if so where should i install it. should i install it on the wire leading from the ignition switch to the heater switch. the heater is not original but it was hooked up to run on the 6v system (the heater says "ford" on it)


1955 First series 3600 3/4-ton
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Shop Shark
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There's your problem! the heater says "ford" on it
OK, had to say it.. Is your fan assembly a multi speed?

What I suggest is to just pick up an orginal heater fan assembly and put in a 12V motor. I think you would be happier in the long run.




David Gilmore
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Extreme Gabster
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A resistor is available for this use and they get very hot. It is recommended you mount it inside the heater housing where the fan blows on it.

I use a VR-4 voltage reducer for my 6V wiper motor. They are also for use with heater motors.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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Shop Shark
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Cletis,
How hot does the resister get for your 6V wiper motor?


David Gilmore
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Extreme Gabster
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I didn't use the resistor. I used the VR-4 solid state voltage regulator.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 38
5
Wrench Fetcher
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Thought I would jump in on this a well since I am in the process of converting my system from 6 to 12 but later down the road in the restoration process.

So right now I have an old 6 volt fan motor and a heater/fan switch that when you turn it the fan goes faster....sort of like your light switch when you twist the knob the dash lamps get brighter.

Anyways I was planning on going ahead and replacing the fan motor with a 12 volt one. Question is will I have to make any changes to the switch itself. The switch is pretty much self contained with the exception of a little electronic component on the outside with two little wires and a spring. Not sure if you call this a resistor or capacitor or what.

Any thoughts on the switch work needed? I have no problem with seeing out switch made for a 12 volt if I have to. Don't want to risk any catastrophic electrical issues
As always this is a great forum with a lot of great advice for those like me trying, step by step to bring this old 6's back to life.

Joined: Mar 2002
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I would try it with the old switch. More than likely you will find that you can't vary the fan speed as much. If you can change the bulb to 12 volt, do so. That spring you are talking about is a resistor.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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5
Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks for the recommendations!
John

Joined: Jun 2012
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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Think about this, you have old wires, an old switch and an old motor. Without doing it 1st class best option is place the resistor before the OLD 6V switch and give it a break too. Mount the resistor away from everything else due to heat.

Regulators are ok, just another piece you have to scab on to make things almost right.

Best way was suggested above, buy a 12v motor, also get a 12volt switch, put in new wires and never worry about where to mount a resistor, regulator, fight an old switch and an intermittent motor.


1951 Chevy 3600 rust bucket with GarWood dump bed conversion
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeybs51chevy
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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Sorry I didn't include the 12V switch info for the gentleman asking.

http://www.americanclassic.com/asp/...&iyear=1951&ytype=to&exyear=

Look down the left edge for PN EL118. $19.


1951 Chevy 3600 rust bucket with GarWood dump bed conversion
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeybs51chevy

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