The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Trying to get a 49 216 running

Just recently aquired a 49 3100 thats in pretty good shape but the engine hasn't run since 69. I bought it from the heirs of the original owner and they can remember that it was running when they parked it but don't recall what may have been wrong w/it. The odometer shows 99,450 miles so it's probably worn out but I'd still like to try to get it running to see if it's salvageable.

1st question, is the 49 3100 a negative grd? The owners manual & shop manual I ordered have basic schematics that show negative grd, so thats how I've hooked it up. Anyone in the know, let me know

I've ordered a carb rebuild kit (rochestor), points, condensor,plugs, dist cap, rotor button, 6V coil, new throttle & choke cables and an oil filter (the originals are shot). The oil is in surprisingly good condition as it flows easily and is even leaking out of the two oil lines to the filter (from all the cranking I've been doing). I'll change it "if" I can get it running)...

I burnished the original points and my spark tester indicates I have fairly good spark at every plug. The plugs don't look too bad and I cleaned them up and regapped them to .035"

I figure the fuel pump is shot so I've been pouring gas directly down the carb as I DO NOT like ether. Course if the engine is shot it couldn't hurt..... But I still don't like it. Thus far, with the choke closed and throttle at varying positions I can get it to "almost" catch and run but not enough to get it running. It's SO close
I've been researching the timing aspect of this engine and so far I'm just not getting it. Is the timing mark on the flywheel on the left or right side as there appears to be inspection type holes on either side at just about the same location(s).
Any tricks I can use to get this thing running?
Retard timing? advance timing?
1/2 throttle, full throttle?
Half choke, full choke etc.,
Thanks
Dave

The timing hole you're looking for is the one above the starter. Most of the time, the marks on the flywheel are hard to see- - - -possibly covered with oil or dirt. I'd suggest taking the sheet metal cover off the bottom of the bellhousing and cleaning the front surface of the flywheel, then put a drop of white paint on the ball that's imbedded in the flywheel.

Turn the engine by hand until the ball aligns with the pointer that's visible in the hole above the starter, then loosen the clamp that holds the distributor to the vacuum advance assembly. Turn the distributor housing clockwise until the points close, then back it up CCW until they're barely open. This should get the timing close enough to start. Thye ball appears twice, once when the #1 cylinder is on compression, and again when #6 is compressing. As long as the ball is aligned with the pointer, the timing can be set on either cylinder. Just be sure the plug wires are correct, so the rotor is pointing toward the cylinder that's on compression. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 with the distributor turning clockwise. Have you tried squirting a little oil into the spark plug holes? If the piston rings aren't sealing well, the engine might not have enough compression to start. Don't overdo it- - -you could oil-foul the plugs.
Jerry

It might be a good idea to take the valve cover off and have a look at the valve train. Make sure everything is moving and that you don't have a stuck valve or a bent pushrod.

Get the shop manual. I must have done the timing 10 times following other peoples instructions before got the guts to dive into what I thought was a complex write-up on a complicated process. After reading the manual I got it done in a matter of minutes. Turns out there are actually three marks on the flywheel (the bb, a triangle and the letters "TDC", as I recall). They're all near each other but it makes a difference which one you use for what and the one I was commonly told to use to get things started was incorrect. To keep things straight I marked them with different color grease pencils then used a timing light to dial it in.

When it almost starts, try moving the timing slightly one way and then the other. Too much advance can make it stop dead. You really need fuel supplied to the carburetor to make it run more than a second or two.

Hotrod Lincoln, great info. I'll be going over the point gap and timing when I can get back on it this weekend.
I did squirt a shot of oil into each cylinder then let it sit overnight. Then leaving the plugs out I spun it quite a bit. All the valves open/shut, none are stuck and the rods appear straight. My "finger" over the plug hole comression test indicates I have pretty good compression on every cylinder except #5. It didn't feel as strong as the others. The #5 valve train appear to function just as the others but it could have a burnt valve and/or ring problems. I still think it shoul dstill start even w/i dead cylinder tho...
I poured an extreme amount of gas down the carb and pulled the plugs at intervals to check to see if I had fouled them. Surprisingly they weren't gas nor oil fouled.
She burps and will speed up when cranking but just not start.

don stocker, thanks for the reply. as you can see by reply above, I have pulled the valve cover and all seems OK to my naked eye (yikes, I said naked )

BLUEMEANIE,good info, thanks. I do need to make time and read that shop manual more. I have been studying the owners manual but it doesn't go into detail like the shop manual.

truckernix, I'm gong to verify if the fuel pump is working when I get back on it this weekend. At this point if I can just get it to run for a sec or two I'd be more motivated to invest more $$$ into this engine.

Life and work has been getting in the way of my wrenching on this truck so I haven't been able to p0lay w/it any in the last couple days. The new battery isn't holding a charge and never reaches 100% charged so I'm taking it back tomorrow and exchange ot for a better on. I've got a hydrometer and my 6v charger both indicates that it never charges past 75% and thats w/it on the charger for atleast 8 hrs straight.
I used to have an old 48 Fergusen TE20 tractor that was also 6v (positive grd) and I know my charger and hydrometer are good and that the engine doesn't have to spin real fast inorder to start, but everythings gotta be right.

Thanks for the input and replys
Dave

Dave,

sounds like you're on track. I don't think the timing is too picky for starting on these - if you do it as described I think you'll be ok. Any pops at all and you're in the ballpark. None, you're probably timed on the sympathetic cylinder (ie, six vs. one).

A low battery/slow cranking speed and low compression from sitting and frozen rings can prevent starting. Sounds like you know enough to tell if it's cranking fast enough. If needed, you can jump a 12-volt battery to your six to get started. Be sure everything electrical except ign. is OFF, and only leave the jumper cables on the six volt. battery as long as necessary to get it running, then take them off. A lot easier if you have help!

Also, are you confident the exhaust isn't plugged up and that it can breathe?

Just some thoughts . . .

-Michael

Micheal, thanks for the reply. yes, it's sooo close to starting. Makes me wonder if that could have been the original problem on why they parked it back in 69.
I've thought about trying 12v's but I'm unsure about damaging the gauges. The fuel gauge is registering 1/4 tank and the amp meter deflects to the negaive when cranking so I'll ponder your suggestion on a 12v boost

Alittle background on this truck.
I knew the original owner (Glee) and thought the world of him. He's no kin but I'd claim him if he was . Picture Pa Kettle and you've got him
Glee was the one that parked it in his basement garage but everyone has forgotten why. He did buy a new Dodge pickup but I want to think that was in the 70's.
My Mrs can remeber riding back in the bed back when she was a kid. It was used mainly as a farm truck.
After he passed away his son moved it to his DIL's fathers barn where it's sat since perhaps the mid to late 80's. So it's been in the dry since 69. I never knew it existed until recently.

The truck and engine appear to still be all stock and I'd like to keep it that way. I want it so when my grandson drives it he'll know how a 49 Chevy 3100 drove off the show room floor

Theres an oil change reminder on the door and it indicates a change @ 99500 miles. The odometer shows 99450 (IIRC) so it's not due an oil change for another 50 miles
I can read the add marks on the dip stick through the existing oil so thankfully it appears he kept it regularly serviced. The oil isn't tar thankfully.... I'm really surprised at it's condition. I ordered an oil pan gasket too.

The engine could very well be shot as 99k miles on a 49 engine would seem to be near the end of it's lifespan, but then again what do I know as I've never owned a 49 216 before

Sorry for the rambling.
Dave

P.S from what I've read this site doen't host pics so I'll need to find a host site so I can add some pics.

I use a pic host called "Hunt 101.com" and I'm very pleased with it. They have unlimited bandwidth available at no charge, and the site is pretty easy to negotiate. When you get your pics uploaded, remember to put a link, not the actual picture on this site. Some of our overseas members have internet service providers that charges them outrageous fees to reproduce pictures, so they need links, not pics.

I'm not too far from Knoxville, so if you need some help getting the engine running, give me a heads-up and I'll climb on the old Gold Wing and take a ride in your direction. I just retired from 30+ years of teaching auto mechanics to high school students.
Jerry

Jerry, thanks for the offer,That would be a pretty good run on a Goldwing 30+ of teaching HS students? Congrats on your well earned retirement.
So Hunt 101.com will host pics? I'll check it out
Heres a link to a pic of when we loaded it up to bring it home.
http://tinypic.com/r/35jcdmu/6

I ride with the Patriot Guard Riders, and attend veterans' funerals and other PGR functions all over Tennessee, and parts of Alabama and Georgia at times. I was planning to ride to the Stovebolt reunion in KC this year, but family commitments got in the way. Maybe next year! We're visiting a veterans' home in Huntsville Alabama on Sunday- - - -good to see the old boys while they're still on the top side of the grass sometimes!
Jerry

Hey, sounds like a really great find, and one with a personal connection.

Just a thought, If you are trying to run the truck with the 40 year old gas in the tank, it probably won't ever start, even with you pouring new gas down the throat. That fuel pump might still be working.

Be curious to know if you have any fuel in the bowl.

Kurt

I'd second Kurts thought about the gas. I would drain the tank and put a fuel line hose from the intake of the fuel pump into a gas can with fresh fuel thru a drilled rubber stopper with a vent on the can and try that. Also, when I cleaned the tank of my '56, the crud in there was truly hazardous waste. as well, the carb could be gummed up after sitting so long.

Dave

Jerry, thats an admirable vocation. I used to scoot around back in the day, but nowadays I tool around in a small 4 wheeler (72 Ghia) I just recently got back roadable. It's not as fun as a bike but for me it's more comfortable

Kurt, I'm leaning more towards your train of thought also. It just may need a carb full of good gas inorder to start. I'm not having any luck just pooring it down the throat

Dave, Yesser, I do believe I'm going to have to take it a step or two deeper. Thanks for the input.

Sorry men but I have failed y'all. Once again life got in between me & some time on the 3100. Couple some promised honey-do's w/some kin coming in from out of town for the big football game (which we lost) and all I managed to do was put the new plugs in. Spark is good but they made no change. I cleaned up around the timimg hole a bit and couldn't locate the pointer that the flywheel bee-bee lines up on but I really didn't spend a whole lot of time looking. I may need to tempoarily disconnect the manual starter linkage inorder to get a clossr unobstructed view of that area. Timeing cvould still be off but I'm going to concentrate on the fuel delivery system next.

Oh, one of my visitors over the weekend was one of Glee's (original owner) son and he hadn't seen the truck since they moved it to the barn back in the 80's. He recalled learning to drive in that truck He shared lots of stores. It's amazing that even tho that truck isn't running yet, it still managed to "drive" him down memory lane

Dave

Got to speed alittle more time on the 3100 some Sat but still no joy. It did seem to be clser to starting tho.

I pulled fuel pump glass bowl and it was 1/3rd filled w/a dryed golden colored powder type material, no fluid of any type. I disconnected both fuel lines, the input from the tank and output to the carb,no flow of any kind.
Upon seeing this I immediately removed the carb, cleaned it out, blew out all the passages and installed the rebuild kit from Classic Parts. The carb was in surprisingly good condition I I end to believe it's not the original, as it was way cleaner than anything else on the engine. The floats were spot on also.
One thing I noticed was that a majority of the gas I was directly pouring down the carb had acculimated in the intake manifold directly under the carb. Engines like a mist and not puddles of gas to fire so I sucked up as mush as I could.
I have an electric fuel pump from another project so I decided to use it and a fuel line submerged into a can of very fresh gas for a fuel source temporarily. I had to use a separate 12v P/S to power it as I'm still 6v and I then gave her a go or two or 50
With the choke closed and the throttle nearly wide open I can get it to almost start. At any other throttle position it barely burps. Life once again got in the way so I'll be back at it later.
Dave

I'd pull the spark plugs and put some oil in the cylinders, turn it over to oil cylinders. Get yourself some "new" spark plugs and install them. Make sure you have good spark at the spark plugs. Leave the choke alone and give it a try.

I haven't checked the timing yet as I wouldn't think that it could get that much off from sitting, but then again I really had to file the points and the gap could be off now.
I've got new points, rotor and dist cap and I'm thinking on geting back to the ign part again. Since I haven't done them I can't rule them out.
I'm told the truck was running when they parked it but I can't help but wonder why they parked it. Could be it was hard to start
Hope to get back on it sometime this week or weekend.
Thanks for the input.
Dave

Update.
Got to spend some time on the 3100 today.
I found the timing pointer, flywheel BB and some other marks so I was able to line up the BB w/the pointer w/both intake & exhaust valves on cylinder #1 closed on the compression stoke. The rotor button was lined up directly w/the #1 plug wire so I had a good static timeing set. I replaced the points, condensor, rotor button & dist cap, squirted a couple drops of gas directly into each cylinder, reinstalled the new plugs, capped off the dist vaccum advance in case there was a vaccum leak, turned on the electric fuel pump and proceeded to run the battery down trying to start her. No joy.....
Going against my own judgement, I even tried ether, no joy. I sprayed around the manifold joints, carb mounting and directly into the carb and there was no change from using just gas which I find highly unusual.
I am now thinking that there may be an internal problem. Blown head gasket, cracked head, burnt vslve(s) worn out rings etc.
MY brother stopped by and gave me another set of hands to work the throttle, choke, dist advance and starter.
Fully retarded dist, closed choke w/partial throttle still seems to be the combination that gets it to almost start.
He also knows someone w/a good compression gauge kit and i'm going to borrow it next week. I believe that gauge will give me a good idea on the internal condition.

Dave

HMMMMMM- - - - - -one small detail- - - -with the BB aligned with the pointer, there is still a lot of leeway possible in the ignition timing. Align the BB with the pointer, then loosen the clamp screw that holds the vacuum advance to the distributor housing. Turn the distributor housing clockwise until the points are closed, then back it up CCW until they are just barely open. One good way to set the timing very accurately is with a test light. Attach the light wire to the (-) terminal of the coil and touch the pointer to a good ground like the engine block or cylinder head. With the ignition switch turned on and the points closed, the light will not burn. As soon as the points open as you're turning the distributor housing CCW, the light will come on. Lock the clamp down in that position and the engine should start.
Jerry

Well . . . seems like your timing should be "close-enough", and even just pouring gas down the throat should give you some sputters - I'm getting skeptical that something else isn't going on!
1. This may sound stupid, but forgive me: Are you sure the plug wires are in the right order, ie: 153624? And that's going clockwise around the cap, BTW.

2. Definitely time for that compression test. I think a couple cylinders with valves stuck open can wreak havoc on your vacuum in the manifold - poor atomization, and no running. Think you said the valve train looked good, but I'd still like to see a compression test . . .

-Michael

Is the spark a pretty blue color, or orange in color? Needs to be blue and strong. Orange in color just won't cut it.

Sounds like timing is too slow to me, or points aren't quite right yet.

Should fire up for a few seconds on gas poured down the throat. Unless you are pouring too much. Or not enough.

Using Hotrod Lincolns method of timing the distributor should get it to start up, then you can see how close it is.

I like the idea of a compression gauge. Easy to do. You can borrow one from any of the FLAPS at no charge if you don't have one.

Update. I decided I needed a compression gauge to add to my arsenal so I stopped by my local Harbor Freight and picked up a US General universal compression tester. Now I know it's quality is suspect but I figure it should be good enough to atleast tell me if the cylinders were pumping up equal.
According to the tester they aren't.
I've come to my conclusion but I'll post my findings for your thoughts.
All tests were done w/th throttle & choke clamped wide open and all plugs removed.
My shop manual calls for 110 psi for optimum perfromance.
The dry compression test results.
#1,60 psi
#2,40 psi
#3,60 psi
#4,60 psi
#5,20 psi
#6,15-20 psi

With one good squirt of oil per cylinder.
#1,70 psi
#2,40 psi
#3,70 psi
#4,70 psi
#5,25 psi
#6,15-20 psi

My uneducated guess is that ALL rings are worn past the max tolerance, probable burnt valve on #2 and either a blown headgasket or worse between 5 & 6.
It's now making some sense that the gas was puddleing at the bottom of the intake manifold as opposed to getting drawn into the cylinders and fouling out the plugs. Theres not enough compression to pull it in.....

So I'll be researching and taking opinions on whether to attempt to rebuild this old 216, try to find a full pressure 235 or 261 and/or go all out for a small block V8.

Dave

Dave,

It may sound stupid, but I find it's at least a relief to have the mystery solved! Or, somewhat solved . . .

In my mind, you've got a little bit of time and money invested in this engine already, and head gaskets are pretty cheap. Only you know your patience and persistence level, but I think I'd be pulling the head on this 216 and seeing what you see. The great thing is, you don't have much to lose, mistakes don't matter so much, and the potential for vast improvement is great!

Make a deal with yourself, though, that you won't succumb immediately to mission-creep, especially when you find the cylinders scored and lined with rust, etc. etc. Just do what's necessary to get it to run! Verify that indeed you have a blown gasket, and find out what's with #2. Put on a new gasket, fix whatever burnt valves there are, but that's it. Then, throw it back together, and hear it run.

Once it's run a while, the compression will likely come up on all cylinders, as the rings loosen up. I'd put some snake oil in the crank case to help clean things out (opinions vary on what to use - I'm a fan of Marvel Mystery oil, but I don't think it matters much). Then run it a little while, drain the oil, put in clean oil, and drive it some!

You can decide to change the engine later, but I say let's find out how this one really is.

S'what I would do, anyway . . .

-Michael

Don't be too quick to condemn the rings. The oil should have made a noticeable difference in compression if the rings were the problem, as it would temporarily improve the ring sealing. I believe you've got valve problems, either tight clearance or sticky or burned valves.

First of all, loosen all the valve adjuster locknuts and back the adjusting screws up about 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Right now, exact clearance isn't critical, just be sure there's some free play with every valve closed. Soak the valve stems with penetrating oil like Liquid wrench or KROIL in hopes any varnish or other sticky stuff will turn loose. Once the valves are opening and closing freely, recheck the compression. I think you'll be surprised. The one VERY low cylinder might have a burned valve, but the rest should improve considerably.
Jerry

A good nights sleep has softened the blow

Kurt, fuel pump is shot but may be rebuildable, I'll be researching that more. For testings sake I rigged up an electric fuel pump and rebuilt the carb, theres definitely fuel in the bowl now and I can verify that the excelerator pump shoots gas in the carb when floored.

Dave, theres no telling whats in the tank. I guess teh sender is stuck as nothing comes out w/the line disconnected from the fuel pump. I'll be pulling & testing it soon. My rigged up fuel source didn't make a difference tho.

Mike, you know, I still haven't verified if the wires are in the correct locations on the dist cap, even when I swapped caps :O
After sleeping on it overnight I believe I'm not ready to punt just yet. I'll be checking the fireing order and pondering pulling the head after I try Jerry's suggestion

Roy, the spark looked more blue than orange so I figure it should be good enough to fire a good cylinder. I've got one of those site-glass type spark testers and I can clearly see spark even with my drop light shineing on it. I also replaced and properly gapped the points, condensor, rotor button, dist cap and new plugs, no change.....

David, Instead of borrowing a tester, I just decided to buy a cheap compression tester kit. I got to thinking (dangerous I know ) that I could use one and I now had a perfect opportunity to justify it

Jerry, after sleeping on it I've decided to not punt just yet. Even tho I can see all the valves opening & closing it still doesn't mean that the springs could have weakened or some debris etc., could be keeping them from closing all the way. I'll give your suggestions on the valves a good going over before I go on to the next step and pull the head.

Thanks for the suggestions
I'm not overly concerned if the engine is shot. I've rebuilt engines before and am currently enjoying tool'n around in my other unfinished project that required some engine work (72 ACVW Ghia) but it's been awhile since I've used a machine shop so I'll need to research & locate a local one. I know of two that I used in the past are gone.....

I'm not adverse to rebuilding this low pressure 216. I mean this one has 99K on it and I highly doubt I'd put that much on it should I rebuild it, so I wouldn't consider it a bad investment.
Whats the odd's on finding a pristine 235 or 261?
The good thing is I do have a complete stock 216 and baring anything major being wrong with it, thats a good base.

I've also started going through other parts of the truck and it's got a few holes in the floor board, the bed is shot, theres no brakes, all the glass needs replaced, the exterior needs some dents repaired & fully repainted and the interior including the very nasty bench seat needs a thorough going over so this truck isn't going anywhere anytime soon.
In any case, the engine is still the key and if it needs rebuilt/replaced, so be it.
Thanks
Dave

This past weekend I ran into a similar problem. I bought a parts car with a supposedly good 58 235 in it. We pull the spark plugs and did a compression test and found 3 of the 6 cylinders way low. I added oil and rechecked and still had way low compression. I pulled the valve cover and loosened the valve lash and rechecked. Much better, I found that I still didn't have much lash on a couple valves so I loosened them more yet. I did spray the valve stems with lots of penetrating oil just to make sure things were lubed good. In the end I got it to run, the more it ran the better it got. We bought it this past may so it sat all summer. I'm now sure that the motor is reasonably good so I can move forward taking it out. Keep at it and you'll get it to run.

In case you run into a really trashed engine, I've got several complete 216's on hand, plus a couple of late model 235's. I'm straight south of Nashville, near the I-65/Alabama state line.
Jerry

I dont know if this will help but I recently got my 1940 GMC running after 40+ years.
I was having same issues as you; fuel in manifold, what appeared to be good spark, but no go.
I would fill the float with fresh fuel, leave off the fuel line so old fuel/junk didn't get in, (she may only run for 10-15 seconds but baby steps) carby cleaned out, but still no luck. Used a 12 volt battery and coil, no luck. My mech mate came over and had her running in 5 minutes; what he did was; while I cranked her over he held hand over carby to check suction (not precise but we had suction), he then checked spark as the points were a bit crap so he pretty much just checked they were sparking with screwdriver and gave them a few sraps to get good connection.
Then he had some 'shellite'??? or similar sounding stuff? alcohol type cleaner? (I used a bit of 'start ya bastard'later to get her going again on a later date but now she starts freely) anyway he sprayed a squirt of that down carby and I kid you not she just fired to life. And this was with me trying for days and him not really changing anything other than that spray. We also used th old original spark plugs...just sandblasted ends a little.
I also did the oil down cylinder thing a few weeks ago but still no go, until my mech sprayed that stuff in carby! LOL

After reading up in the shop manual, it seems the correct way to set the valves is after the engine has warmed up to operating temps. Since that'll be hard to do in my case I did some searching here it seems the consensus is to add approx .002" to set the clearances cold. I also downloaded a couple handy instructions that'll I try soon. I gotta say this 216 has an unusual valve layout
I gave each valve stem a good bath of CB Blaster and decided to squirt 2 good shots of oil per cylinder and let it sit a couple days like that. I also gave the entire valve train a good bath in oil (some 10w30 I had sitting around).

Unfortunately theres a swap meet this weekend involving my "other" running project so my time lately is getting it into good interstate running condition and bringing a shine to the few spots that will
I do hope to play w/the 3100 some this weekend tho.
I did bring the engine up to #1 compression stroke and both valves have some wiggle room so the valves aren't tight on #1 anyways.

Don & Zaczac, good to hear y'all could get that old iron running again. Both of your experiences sound just like mine so I'm motivated to try both.
Zaczac, what was the name of that magic starting fluid again?

Jerry, pm sent.

Dave

Try the PM again- - - -I don't have anything in my inbox! We're leaving for the SE gabfest in a few minutes, but I'll have my laptop with me.
Jerry

Ill check name of it but i think shellite?
I think its like ethanol?
And only did a squirt, but im in oz so u may know it by diff name?

One condition that has not been addressed is the possibility of valve timing being off. If the cam gear is worn out it may have possibly "jumped" a tooth or two and the cam may be out of sync with the crankshaft. I have experienced this with high mileage engines. The fact that the valve train is operating is no guarantee that the valves are in time with the position of the pistons.
Check the position of the valves by removing the valve cover, while observing the position of the 1 piston position in relation to the timing mark on the flywheel and the position of the rotor and the position of both intake and exhaust valves. Both valves should be fully closed at TDC with the rotor pointing to number 1 secondary terminal inside the distributor cap.

Further to WillsLimo post, I have experienced the fibre cam gear shifting on the steel bushing , acts just like it jumped a tooth, but no apparent damage can be seen. Can really only be seen by comparing the key slot to timing dot relationship.

It's virtually impossible for a stovebolt cam gear to jump a tooth without destroying the gear and stalling the engine due to the cam not turning at all. The slipped timing gear hub is a definite, though very rare possibility.

Here's a quick check- - - - -watch the valve rocker arms on the #6 cylinder, the last two back by the firewall. As the exhaust valve (last one in line) stops moving and the intake (next to last) begins to move, the pistons on both #1 and #6 should be at the very top of their stroke. You can monitor piston movement with a piece of soft copper wire through the spark plug hole (definitely NOT a screwdriver!) as the engine is turned with the fan blade or a pry bar through the starter hole engaged into the flywheel teeth.
Jerry

Will,Dusty, thanks for the input. The rotor button lines up almost exactly on the #1 plug position on the dist cap with the pointer on the BB and both valves fully closed on cylinder #1.
Following Jerry's suggestion I did the static timeing w/a light just to be sure and the dist is in the almost same exact position as it was.
I'm pretty sure that the timing is close enough to start & run.

I also backed all valve adjusters back 1/4 turn and verified that the rockers were all loose w/the valves closed.
I shot another shot of oil into the cylinders then took more compression tests.
No change from the previous tests.
Even tho 5 & 6 are practically dead, I installed the new 6v coil and with a fully charged 6v battery, I went at it again.
The starting fluid would almost get it going and I was getting some smoke up through the push rod galley but alas, no joy.
The ether smell was so thick in the shop I had to step out a couple times just to get a good draw of fresh air.....
I even cheated abit and flipped the charger over to 12v 6 amp, no joy....
As a last resort before I yank the head, I'm thinking of trying a 12v battery. Right now I have the ign switch out and I'm jumping voltage off of the starter solenoid to the coil to fire the plugs. So if I try 12v in this manner I won't have to worry about frying my other electrics. I'm guessing I'll need an ign resister tho so I'll ponder that awhile.
Dave

Sometimes coast or tow starting is the only way to get some of these running.

The 12V option is a good choice. Just disconnect the supply wire to the ammeter at the starter to protect the rest of the electrical system, and use a jumper wire to the coil + terminal instead of going through the ignition switch. As long as you don't crank the engine for more than 5-10 seconds at a time, the 6V starter will handle the overload OK. If you put a ballast resistor in series with the jumper to the coil, the points will thank you!
Jerry

Man, lifes a beach sometimes
Been pondering this engine situation quite abit lately but haven't been able to squeeze much shop time. But I did get in alittle and I want to run this by y'all for your thoughts.

I decided to take a big screw driver and manually work the valves open/close to make sure there was no sticking/binding and they all seemed to work easy enough except cylinder #2. I believe it is the intake valve (3rd valve back from front that sticks straight up) will not open fully. It will only go down approx 1/2 the throw of the other valves and it's almost as if it's hitting something. Since it does pump up some compression (moreso than 5 & 6) I'm thinking that the valve may be bent. I've never been into one of these before so I can't think of anything else it could be hitting besides a piston but since it's pumping up somewhat I'm doubting that.

I haven't tried the 12v yet and I'm trying hard to find reasons to keep trying to start and NOT pull the head yet.
But, the shade tree in me keeps saying "pull that danged head dummy"

Question, will pulling the side plate tell me anything and is it critical to be installed just for this starting exercise?
Dave

No,If you have a bent valve, Just pull the head and fix it! It will be all better when you do. You spend too much time trying to fix something that needs to taken apart to fix correctly. Just my 2 cents worth of thinking.