The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Sandblasting Advice

I want to take the truck down to bare metal and start from the beginning. I have a lot of work before the sandblasting commences, but I was wondering what would be best for panels, the inside cab, the engine bay, etc. I know the cabinet style is good for smaller parts but for the body and bigger parts what would be the best. thanks in advance, I am just looking forward to really starting to get my truck looking like it use to. BTW this is my first restoration and I am a super novice at working on vehicles so this should be fun..

I recieved some good advice from other Bolters. They said to get the truck running if possible and then fix smaller things one at a time. Another option is to take it apart, taking photos as you go from every possible angle, and then label everything, and I mean everything.

A lot of folks get their project apart, enthusiasm dies or they run into a financial block and then the truck sits. That can happen if you don't have a plan and get into it above your skill level or wallet size.

Universal advice I have is:
1. know your skill level
2. make it safe to drive and get a feel for the truck
3. have a clear plan (options are allowed)
4. Stovebolt members are very helpful, and it's easier to get advice on how to do it right than how to undo a mistake. LOL!
5. Think of the restoration or repair as 1000 small repairs and tackle them 1 at a time (sticking to your plan).
6. stay motivated by budgeting money and time wisely.

I'm sure others will add their thoughts too. So far, advice given here has kept me on track.

As far as sandblasting goes, most Bolters on here say to pay someone to sand blast the frame and all the body panels. Just be careful to get someone who is recommended. The cheapest guy would be a bad choice if they warp body panels by getting them too hot while blasting. With the frame it's not a problem.

BTW, we'd like to see pics of your project truck. I'm guessing it's a 66 C10?

Thanks for the advice and believe me it won't be the last time I ask. Here are some pics that I posted.

http://s1050.photobucket.com/albums/s407/Boomerchevy66/My%2066%20c10%20long%20fleet/

Since then I did an undo mistake by breaking my ring horn trying to take it off after getting some bad advice, not on here, but from someone I thought knew what they were talking about. Plus my nephew had gotten into the truck and broke my turn signal bracket. Here are the pics.

I have seen a lot of guys say that changing from drum to disc brakes is highly recommended. I am wanting to try and keep the truck as original as possible, and thought that this upgrade may degrade the truck. I am even keeping the instrument cluster just the warning lights and not changing to gauges. Thanks again for the advice.

There's nothing wrong with staying original. I must say that these trucks were not built with braking systems strong enough or reliable enough for 70 mph driving on the freeway. So, if you plan to do freeway driving, that's something to keep in mind.

The disc brake upgrade and power steering upgrades do make these trucks more fun to drive as well as safer. Safer is a good thing.

I plan to add front disc brakes, power steering and A/C once I get my truck running. However, I will first get it back together like it was from the factory.

Properly rebuilt, the stock brakes are plenty adequate for Highway use. Now, I don't have anything against changing to disks or dual circuit master cylinders, but the stock brakes are much better than most folks give them credit for. Changing to disk brakes is not a "have to" in order to run highwya speeds. I run those speeds (and sometimes faster) regularly with stock manual drums

Yeah I see the idea behind power steering and disc brakes, but I to want to bring back its factory luster including the wood bed that it would have came with. My greatgrandfather took out the wood and put diamond plate down shortly after he bought the vehicle.

I want to keep the original motor which is a L6. I know that the L6 had the option of A/C and power steering, and the dash is easily convertable to fit the different panels, but again tht will probably be one of the very last things I do.

I can't wait to really get started on this and I am very thankful for guys like yourself that are warm and welcoming even to the most novice of mechanics such as myself.

Thanks for the reply LONGBOX. I really appreciate the help and advice. I am already gaining confidence that I will be able to do this and maybe even the majority of the work myself, excluding the blasting, painting and powder coated which I think is going to be the most expensive part with the exception of redoing the bed.

I also run non-power drums on my '60.
Run highway speeds / freeway speeds, steep, winding roads, etc.
The 2 big things are: Use the best shoes you can get, keep shoes adjusted & inspect everything on a regular basis.
Know the limits of the system. You have to drive like you have drum brakes! Brake fade can come on real quick and water in the drums an adventure not soon forgoten.

I sandblasted everthing up to the fenders and bed and said enough and had the rest of the body parts blasted. Don't soda blast. There is chemical issue with the paint. I used lunch bags to put parts in and labeled them. Worked great. Make sketches and take photo's. I still can't remember how a couple of things go back together. Do treat it as a bunch of little projects, I did each part cleaned repaired painted and then put in a box until ready to assemble on the truck.

Boomer,
I too have been where you are and although you hit many of the points, I can add a few to your “Need-To-Do” list. First, I have a build thread going over at the 67-72 truck club BB Click link below – read it through) you will see what I was up against. I am restoring a ’60 GMC from the ground up been at it 12 years this year, Hurricane Katrina interrupted the entire process by drowning the “almost painted” truck, back in 2005. Been making steady progress ever since. I've used the sand blaster. Sode Blasting ands Chemical Dip method, all work well, (chemical is the best,IMO). You'll see pictures in the links.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=4665372#post4665372

Along with taking pictures and bagging everything, also fill out 3x5 index cards with small notes as to where the parts goes or which order the parts came off the truck, example.; When you remove the front fenders, make a card that would say, top left rear bolt shim, right lower bolt etc.) Many years from now (I hope not) you will use these cards to remember where the parts go.

I’ve taken apart 3 trucks trying to make one and had one stolen on me. Trust me to not set your time table to short, you’ll get discussed and thrown in the towel. Think about all the fun you will have working on it.

Go to a lot of car show meet and hook up with other 60-66’ers and form a friendship, many of the guys and gals will be glad to lend a hand on the project. I’m always offering labor and some work, cabinet blaster, etc.. Matter of fact I’m getting ready to offer a feed bag to the local guys to help me get the doors adjusted and the fenders on. My sons moved away and I’m by myself, so I NEED HELP. Cook up a good meal, buy some beer and call them over to assist. They WILL come to help.

Jake

When we acquire a project/flip/driver, we first do the following:

1. If it is broken...repair it.
2. If it is missing...replace it.
3. If it doesn't belong...remove it.

By doing so, we can see what we have, to start with and begin formulating a plan, for where we want to go with it.

Secondly, we focus on:

1. Start
2. Steer
3. Stop

By doing so, the truck can be used, while allowing us to dial-in the plan. The mind tends to think & process differenly, when it comes to the plan for the truck, when you can get in it, use it and determine what, if anything you want to do with it.

Thirdly, we determine, if the following, is appropriate:

1. Performance upgrades
2. Convenience upgrades
3. Cosmetic upgrades

We have found the methodical approach, listed above, is the easiest on our time, pocket-book, resources and peace-of-mind.

That was so simply laid out, yet I would have NEVER thought of something like that. I will be able to apply this with a hope and dedication. Thanks for the advice and check your pm I have a question that may not want to be answered in the forum.

Sandblasting advice? Don't do it to your truck,do the sanding yourself if your good,but if you blast that truck you will have sand in places you do not want,and getting all that sand out of those places will be next to impossible ,its a bad deal to deal with, when your ready for paint and they start to lay it on your going to see little things you don't want to see in the paint, like sand dust. just my thoughts.

Thanks for the advice benny. I am thinking about sanding a lot of the stuff my self with some advice I seen in the Paint & Body section. What are those long hand sanders that I see on a lot of those shows. If you haven't notice I do not know a whole lot about restoration. Thanks again.

board file?

Boomerchevy66,
I am doing my truck by myself. I do wish I had some help... not because I need help but because sharing the project keeps a fella fueled I think. I'm thankful for this site and all the guys who help me along the way. GREAT bunch of fellas!
I'm taking my '59 completely apart, clutch screw by clutch screw... and yes, take LOTS of pictures and yes again, used baggies with a marker to label what the parts are and where they came from!
I get empty boxes from work to store the larger parts and the bagged items and label the boxes as to what part of the truck (Doors & Windows, Inside Cab etc.) the items are associated with. These are really working well for me.
Have fun with your project! Post your accomplishments on "what did you get done on your truck today" (It'll help keep you inspired).
Sandblasting... I borrowed a pressure blaster but my little compressor wouldn't push it. I later acquired a larger compressor and bought the siphon blaster set from HF. It works ok. The best sand came from Wal-Mart (less pebbles in it) but it's wet... you'll want to dry it out. Still, sift it with a screen.
For small parts I made a de-rust vat and it worked well.
I'm finishing up the doors now and I'm really beaming with pride of accomplishment over those.
I still have a ways to go but the light at the end of the tunnel is getting bigger.
Good luck!
Jerry

We, as well as, many high-end restoration shops across the country, media-blast all sheet metal parts. Hand-sanding, has it's draw-backs, as well, like sanding dirt, primer, paint, under-coating, grease, grime, you name it, into the pores of the metal. As with any stripping method, there are necessary measures, to be taken to remove all foreign materials from the parent-material, prior to application of any protective coating or primer. In my personal experience, with due diligence, the blast media, can be removed thorougly and successfully, since it comes out, the same way it got in. Regardless of ability and persistence, hand-sanding does not remove the material & rust, in tight spots, which are the primary sources of future problems. When I hear the statement, "I can buy a lot of sandpaper for that kind of money", referring to the cost of media-blasting, I smile and wish them good luck. More times, than not, the parts get media-blasted.

In closing, media-blasting and the process of proper preparation of bare metal, is a tried & true metod of stripping vintage tin and I recommend the method for stripping years of primer, paint, grime, undercoating, rust, etc.

You haven't experienced drum brakes until you've ridden a motorcycle with them. My 1947 Indian Chief has binders! Makes my '63 seem like it stops on a dime. I am in the preparation stages of blasting the inside of my bed. I have everything else ready. I sawed Cypress boards, have all stainless strips and hardware to go in. I'll post photos when done. My wife has me getting our house ready to sell also so may take awhile. She will join me in retirement December 31.

Media-blasting is the key, What media? There's place's for sand and then there's place's for soda blasting or walnut shells, or many other types of media, but to sandblast a whole truck is not very good. Yes i am sure there's people that can do this without wrecking your sheet metal. Be sure you are one of those guys.

If you turn the pressure down to 35 or 45 psi and adjust the sand flow down to a min you can remove a layer of paint at a time. Keep the nozzle at an angle (45 degree or so) and you'll be fine.

Excellent post by 4-5-6 Chevytrucks in regards to media blasting.

The only thing I would add is to use Nickle Slag as the media. Much better than sand http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis

Blasting with something that's water-soluble like soda, then pressure washing usually eliminates the problem of sand getting into crevices and showing up at inopportune times later on.
Jerry

We are currently using a pressurize pot-blaster with crushed brown glass, H2O & Rust-Blok. No overheating issues and the sheet metal is thoroughly rinsed and recoated with Rust-Blok. We have several cabs and numerous pieces of sheet metal, that have been in bare metal, without flashing, for several months, even in the high humidity in our area.

Tony, is the crushed brown glass available commercially? I've never seen it around these parts...doesn't mean its not here.
Teach us/ME something.

Here is a link to a site, that sells the crushed glass:

Crushed glass media

Thank You Tony. Interesting stuff. I have some plastic on hand but it don't do much for anything but paint.

Thanks for the advice fella's. I just moved this last weekend and haven't really been able to check the site. Looks like I will be buying a media blaster and using a blaster, a sander, and a pressure washer. Will post my updates on the forum that mrwilson suggested. Thanks again guys...

Tony are you saying you mix the water, Rust-Blok, and the brown glass together and then blast the metal? And what grade of glass are you using?