The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Crankshaft Questions 1950 216 3600

I'm going to drill and thread the crankshaft so I can pull the balancer on rather than drive it on. What size bolt is best for this and how long should the threaded part be? Is it better to cut the head off of a longer bolt, thread it all the way in and use a nut to pull the balancer on and then swap it out for the bolt or is it safe to just use the bolt?

Now for the balancer. The engine was a grease pit so I'm wondering if the rubber in the balancer has a good chance of being shot. Do you guys usually just run them or is it a good idea to have it redone. I've heard of the "Dampener Dr." Are there other reputable places that also offer this service?

Finally, is it a good idea to use the "speedy sleeve" (I think that's what I've heard it referred as) on the dampener to provide a smooth surface for the seal to ride on or can the dampeners often be cleaned up with emery cloth and work fine? If using the speedy sleeve, are they just driven on or are they secured some other way?

Thanks,
Shawn

The hole size would be 7/16 fine, same as small block chevy.Maybe a inch and a half deep(1.500), I would use a speedy sleeve only if there is a groove in the balancer, as far as your balancer just look at it and see if the rubber is falling apart, if its not then use it, if it runs true you should be ok. As far as having a stud? Just get a installer and use that.Works the best when you put a small amount of oil on the crank snout and balancer, some people even use a small amount of silicone to seal the key ways from leaking any oil past.

Even if you thread the crankshaft, DO NOT use the bolt to try to pull the balancer on. You'll strip the thread. You can rent a balancer installer tool at most parts stores once the crank is threaded. By bolting the pusher to the front of the crank and using a big, fine thread to install the balancer, there's no danger to the crankshaft thread.

I used to offer a drill and tap tooling set to fellow stovebolters for a nominal rental fee, but since two kits have been stolen so far, I doubt if I'll continue to do it. My kit included a balancer pusher, and guide bushings for the drill bit and a 7/16-20 tap so a clean, straight thread could be cut. It can also be used as an alignment tool for installing the timing cover in alignment with the balancer. One tool set is near Chicago, and the other one is near Los Angeles, if anyone is interested in collecting a reward for retrieving them. PM me for names and addresses.
Jerry

instead of a speedy sleeve you may be able to find and use a "offset seal".

There's no room to use an offset seal on a stovebolt timing cover. When the balancer is installed, there's only about 1/4" between the balancer and the front of the seal.
Jerry

GM made millions of these and they never saw a need to drill and tap the crankshaft. The only install tool I ever need is a pair of oven mitts. The speedy sleeve works easiest in the same manner...warm it up a bit to expand it before installing.

Jerry,

I was debating the same kind of arrangement with a torque plate but your experience has killed that idea so thanks for bringing it up.

Curt, it looks like at least one of the tooling sets is coming back, thanks to some help from a local bolter. I don't mind offering that kind of help, and I've had very good luck with the loan program until recently. I have learned that the deposit needs to be big enough to assure that the tools get returned, and a specific time limit needs to be understood, though!

I'm also working on some tooling for my own shop to do the full-circle rear oil seal for stovebolt engines, but that one is going to be a situation where someone would need to ship their bare engine block to my shop. With the right adapter plate bolted to the back of the block, a cylinder boring bar can be used to cut the counterbore for the seal.
Jerry

Thanks guys for your insight.

Curt, how warm do you set the oven and for how long? Does it usually just slide on then or do you still have to nudge it with a block of wood and a hammer? I'll have to give that a try.

If it doesn't work out and I go with the bolt, is there a specific grade to use or will a standard fine thread bolt work okay?

Shawn,

I suggest:

1. Put the stove on medium.
2. Set the balancer on with the hub side down.
3. pick it up every so often and when you can't hold it for more than 2 seconds put on the mitts and slide it on.

Keep a hammer and block of wood close by but it may go all the way on without any tapping.

Jerry,

I'm planning on doing the rear seal mod to a couple of blocks this winter but fortunately for me I have access to CNC horizontal boring mills so I have nothing to make; just type in the numbers and let her rip.

A regular Grade 5 bolt will work OK, with a drop of blue LocTite and about 50-55 ft/lbs. of torque once the balancer bottoms out against the timing gerar. The bolt is really an afterthought- - -as long as the press fit is right, millions of stovebolts have run untold millions of miles with no center bolt at all. If you've got one of the 216 balancers with the hand crank lugs on it, a little machining needs to be done to create a step for the heavy washer under the center bolt to bear against. I have installed a lot of pistons on small block V-8 connecting rods by heating the small end of the rod until the wrist pin is a slip fit- - - -it's a lot less stressful on the piston than trying to press the pins into the rods. The same thing happens when a balancer hub is heated a little.
Jerry

I have used Spectre 12061. I do not know if this is necessary, but I do it (I got one done tonight, Jerry).

Thanks again for the info guys.

Curt, just to clarify, you put the dampener on the stove top, not in the oven? If that's the case, I have a gas stove so I suppose it would work if I set it in an old pan.

If it gets too hot, the rubber is junk.

It's a lot simpler to just heat the hub with a Propane torch. When a drop of water sizzles when it's dripped onto the hub, the temp is just about right.
Jerry

Heating of the entire balancer is NOT desirable and whether propane or stovetop heat should be restricted to the hub. If it's too hot you'll melt the balancer seal and be starting over anyway so go easy. If you have precision measuring tools handy you can be sure of when it's ripe to be put on.

Yes, that's why I asked for some clarifcation because I don't want to "overcook" the rubber and ruin it. Thanks again for you help guys. I appreciate it. Shawn