The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop What's the best modern drive line

What kind of gearing were you running? There may also be an issue with the engine itself, being a '70s smog ere engine, it might be down on torque compared to a 235, epsecially one that that been hopped up a bit (hotter cam, milled head).
I have no problem with modern drivelines, I even mad a modern engine suggestion. However, it does bother me when folks say that the original equipment "won't handle modern traffic", which just simply is not the case.

It would be a lot harder to keep up with me Joker. lol

I just noticed your setup. An overdrive with 3.08 gears will probably have your RPM's much too low and your engine will be lugging, unless you're running 38 inch tires, or at 90 MPH. You may want to consider 3.42 or 3.73 gears with that setup.


In my family we have several collector vehicles, some from the 60's that are more original, and some from the 30's, 40's, and 50's that are rodded. In no way is it any less fun to drive when the car is rodded. To each their own, and I can appreciate it either way, but if I can't go at least 100 Miles at 65-70 MPH (sometimes 80-85) reliably every time I start my truck, I might as well not have it.

very nice work thx

thanks makes a lot of sence

thanks everyone for the thoughts !!!!!!

Rick

I just noticed your setup. An overdrive with 3.08 gears will probably have your RPM's much too low and your engine will be lugging, unless you're running 38 inch tires, or at 90 MPH. You may want to consider 3.42 or 3.73 gears with that set

I am running 215/60/16s on the rear. the stock for the donor was 245/75/16. The donor ran 683 revs a mile with 3.73 gears. Myu tires run 827 revs a mile. 683 divided by 827 is .826. 3.73 times .826 is 3.08. So the ratio should be right in line with the donor truck. Plus I picked up the tires and wheels and the rear diff from the same guy for cheap.

I've had a supposedly "superior" LS engined truck leave me stranded. Took the same trip (actally,it was a little longer) in my '55 with its "unreliable" 235 without the first problem, other than having to get gas. Both vehicles were ran on the same roads at the same speeds. Plus I hauled a load of tires back in the '55 that I didn't in the newer truck.

I believe one can get "stranded" in either a Rolls Royce and a tin can junker. What is your point?

My point is that the original equipment engines are being dismissed as "unreliable" or "unsuitable" for modern driving, which just isn't the case. I'm also pointing out that just because something is "modern" doesn't necessarily make it better.
Now don't get me wrong, I have no problem with driveline swaps and modern engines, only pointing out that a modern engine can fail just as easily as a vintage one.
Not trying to start an argument.

I agree, point taken.

I like my 4.8 in my 06 GMC van. I get about 20 mpg with it on the hiway. At 75000 mi. it just seems to get stronger. If I were to do another AD or vintage trk, It would be a good V8 to go with I feel. Still you can't beat a stovebolt 6 in any year, they are hard to kill.

I went the 98 LS1 4L60E from TA with 24K on it.
back in 07 for $5K. The extra expense came after with Street & Performance pass. side alt & AC condenser tuck in unit. $2K, then $250. for fuel rails, $200. for air intake, $550. for Harness/Computer revamp, $130. engine mounts, lots of work rewelding exhaust for Cats,$850 for LS1 Walker rad and a few other items. Probably about $8500. cheers

I have not finished my 53 panel yet but chose
a 98 LS1 with 24K, 4L60E, with 8.5 10 bolt with 4 discs. M11 in the front.
Up in Canada the engine/trans was not cheap at $5K. Then the necessary mods like AC pass. tight tuck and pass side alt. motor mounts, fuel rails and LS1 walker rad. Computer/harness revamp = $9500. I have a lot riding on this. cheers Suppose to get plus 20mpg. on highway. Great site!

OK good Buddy, where's the pics.

Heres my 5.3 4l60e so far. I have $1600 for the engine, trans, harness, ecm, tac module, pedal, starter, fuel rail and injectors from the bone yard. 60K 5.3 from a government truck that was wrecked. about $350 for the 10 bolt 70's camaro rear end install. About another 750 for radiator, 92 blazer fuel tank and high pressure fuel pump, misc for fuel lines, trans lines, radiator, etc. Modified the harness myself and used hop tuners to remove the theft system, set up the ecm and allow me to tune when done. Currently working on the exhaust. ls1 camaro style stock manifolds are the tightest fit I could find. After the exhaust is in I can fire it up. Also not finished but you can check out my photobucket for the progress so far.
http://s960.photobucket.com/albums/ae90/scrambler45/

I love the GM 4200 (Trailblazer) platform, but a buddy with a LT1 Buick is twisting my arm about LS drivetrains from late model trucks. It has me thinking.

Sounds like you know how to shop. Mine is racking up dough but what the heck. Looking at the Trailblazer again, there pretty cheap to buy. Up here they go for under $5grand for an 03 with 170k. Looks like a lot of work to make it fit the 49. Have to extend the frame and god knows about the front rad and grille section. They are also quite heavy and expensive to maintain.
Would think the 49 frame with mods. might less problems in long run. cheers

i like the old saying "keep it simple stupid" for me the perfect engine is a regular old 350 chevy and a 350 turbo, add hei and a top notch rebuilt quadrajet and you have a very reliable engine and trans combination. add a 700r4 for some mileage and with the right tune you should be able to get in the low 20's mileage wise. even if you breakdown with this combo you can most certainly repair it in the parking lot of the nearest parts store. instead of paying some shop to hook up their computer and try figure out the efi system you installed out of a junkyard dog. of course dont mention having to have somebody else work on your rig cause you dont have the proper equipment to repair it yourself. just my two cents later MO

Pearls of wisdom