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Joined: Mar 2011
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J
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Hello,

When adding the Directional Signals accessory #986938 to the 1954 Sub/Panel/Canopy with the two swing out rear doors.
Does the tail and stop light that is mounted to one of the rear doors, become just a stop light?
According to the accessory installation manual wiring diagram you disconnect and tape up one of two wires coming from the rear door tail and stop light.
Is this correct?

Thanks,





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D
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Extreme Gabster
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I don't know how they did it back then but I wired mine to work as a 3rd brakelight. There are millions of drivers who are conditioned to seeing a 3rd brake light.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
jorb,

I have wired it three ways:

1. As described by you and by the instructions page 11 and page 12 .

2. Ran/used the original white tail light wire to the white lead on the original tail/stop lamp, and the black brake lead to the black wire on the original lamp. These were quite dim, so I tried #2.

3. Ran the black brake lead to both wires (lighting both filaments) in the original lamp. These were quite dim, so I went back to #1.

Some day, I will put 6v dual "filament" LED bulbs in those lamps and see if they are brighter.

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J
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.........I made a mistake.

Originally Posted by tclederman
jorb,
I have wired it three ways:
1. As described by you and by the instructions page 11 and page 12
Originally Posted by jorb
When adding the Directional Signals accessory #986938 to the 1954 Sub/Panel/Canopy with the two swing out rear doors.
Does the tail and stop light that is mounted to one of the rear doors, become just a stop light?
OK, After screwing in my eye balls correctly I reviewed the Original Directional Signals Accessory #986938 Wiring Diagram "page 12" (Courtesy) tclederman
The tail and stop light that is mounted to one of the rear doors, becomes just a TAIL LIGHT not a stop light.

What was screwing me up was the wires next to the stop light switch that (beanie propeller cap looking thing standing on its side) The 2 wires to the left that dead end or stop.
I thought was part of the stop light, but both wires come from the dual fuse block that is mounted on the engine compartment fire wall, the black tail light wire, remains black from the dual fuse block all they way back to All three tail lights (left,right body & rear door),the rear barn door stop light white wire is disconnect and taped up.The rear barn door tail light black wire is kind of spliced onto the black wire coming from the dual fuse block. Wiring Diagram "page 11".("page 12" shows the splice better).

The orange stop light wire from the dual fuse block is routed to the stop light switch then changes to a white wire on the other side of the stop light switch then is connected to a white wire that routes to the Directional signal switch assembly.

You basically have four things going on, With only three wires routed to the rear.
Tail lights
Stop lights
Left Directional signal lights
Right Directional signal lights

1.The tail lights appear on all three rear light locations: left, right body side and door.
The tail light wiring is separate from the stop and directional signals wiring.
Rear tail lights come on when head light switch is pulled out.

2.The stop and directional signal lights appear only on two rear light locations: left, right body sides.
The stop light voltage and directional signal lights flasher module voltage share the same rear routed wires,
(But never at the same time) depending on the location of the Directional signals switch assembly lever.
If you push the lever up or down and then push on the brake you will only have
one brake light on and one directional signal light on at a time.
Pushing on the brake with the lever in the center position, applies stop light voltage to both left (ribbed black) and right (purple) wires.
In effect you just turned directional wires into stop light wires.

It certainly would be beneficial to have the rear door stop light wire active when the brakes are applied, at least you would have two lights showing when the brakes are applied. But with this wiring configuration, if you connected it to left or right wire it would work like a stop light until you used the directional lever, then would start to act like a directional light.

My panel truck came with tail and stop lights on both rear doors, I prefer the single door set-up, but now I am reconsidering because I can wire one tail and stop light to the left wire one tail and stop light to the right wire. When I add the Directional Signals accessory #986938.

I would probably run into to a lot of amperage draw resulting in dim lights like Tim Lederman experienced.
Especially if I also add this light to the rear top of the panel truck.

There must be a booster available for this kind of problem. People are connecting trailer lights to there vehicles wiring all the time.

If I'm off base with this conclusion or if there is a better way chime in.

Thanks,

Joined: May 2001
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Extreme Gabster
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In order to use the existing door light as a 3rd brake light you must run a dedicated wire to it from the brake light switch. I say this for people with only one light on the door. If you have two lights on the doors you can just tie into the signal lights and they will act a signals too. That ought to get their attention.

If it flashes too fast get a flasher made for towing.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,146
J
Shop Shark
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Originally Posted by cletis
In order to use the existing door light as a 3rd brake light you must run a dedicated wire to it from the brake light switch.
cletis,

Does this extra wire connected to the brake switch, create to much amperage draw and dim all 3 brake lights.

Thanks,


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
I wired it as Cletis described (there was an unused full-run wire available in the original harness) - I also had the factory signal add-on harness.

As posted above, the lights were dim - both bulbs in the door wired together, and using one filament. I hope a 6v dual "filament" LED will be brighter (I'll get to this some day).

Joined: Feb 2002
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F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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there is a reason the wiring on 6V systems is heavier than 12V, I'd be inclined to bump up the wire gauge one or more sizes if adding extra lights to a 6V system

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
They were separate (unused) wires, if you are referring to my posts.

The gauge of the original wiring and the original option add-on wiring were quite adequate for the original lights and the original option add-on lights.

My guess is that the connection power-draw of more bulbs/filaments than originally intended/instructed is the culprit. Additional wires would most likely not help in my situation.

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F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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just generally considering the question of more lights on the system being dimmer or not, and with respect to a "3rd brake light", which wasn't part of the option ... for instance, the wires that go to the points the extra lights get power from, supplied 1 brake light of whatever wattage, now that same wire needs to supply 3 lights of the same [or more?] wattage ... just as the gauge of the battery cables is fairly critical on a 6V, the gauge of wires further along will be as well, and maybe the brake lights are higher wattage than the [stand alone] turn lights?

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
As I posted above, twice, I have an extra wire (or two) from the switches/senders. More wires will not help me. Maybe the switches/senders are being strained?

I'll try 6v LED's.



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F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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I'm thinking of heavier wire from the power source [battery/generator] to where ever the 'extra' wires originate [switches], the LEDs might make a difference because they require less current, but what I'm hearing here is that the system [battery/generator] can't supply enough amperage to burn all the incandescent bulbs at full brightness - why? - I doubt it's the brake switch that can't handle it - is it the generating system, or the delivery system that can't keep up? do the headlights dim when the brakes are applied? if not, what's the difference - are the 3 brake lights at full brightness without the headlights on? does adding more lights maybe require a higher output generator? or maybe they require heavier gauge supply wiring

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,146
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
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Hello,

I have a different take on this Dim light problem.

This web site shows how resistance/Ohms changes when you change the wiring configurations.
System Impedance Calculator
http://www.speakerimpedance.co.uk/
2 Series | 2 Parallel | 3 Series | 3 Parallel | 4 Series | 4 Parallel
2 Parallel & 1 Series | 2 Series & 1 Parallel | 2 Series & 2 Parallel
They might be talking about speakers but resistance/Ohms is resistance/Ohms.
Just make believe the speakers are lights.

This web site shows Volts to watts calculator
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Volt_to_Watt_Calculator.htm
6 volts DC with 45 amp generator = 270 watts

Does anybody know the resistance/Ohms and wattage of the stock rear 6 volt bulbs?

Can you buy 6 volt bulbs with different Ohms and wattages?

Trying to stretch my gray matter. smile




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K
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K Offline
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I have my third light wired as a stop/parking light. Works fine. Nice and bright. As long as you have everything wired in parallel, It will work.


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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