The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay No spark on a 235

I'm posting this about my Dad's 53. He had been working on some carb issues and went to start the truck one day and it wouldn't run. He narrowed it down to no spark. Since then he has replaced the coil, cap, rotor and points and still is not getting any spark to the plugs. There is power to the coil and points. Any ideas?

Pull the coil wire out of the distributor and hold it close to the engine block and have someone crank the engine to see if there is at least spark coming from the coil to the distributor.

Is this still six volt, or has it been converted to 12volts?

What is the point gap that you have the points set at?

If you have the cap off while some one cranks the engine, can you see the points sparking as the engine cranks?

Did you also replace the condenser inside the distributor? It may be shorted if you didn't.

Ihad the exact same problem with the 235 on my 55 chevy 2nd series. I had replaced EVERYTHING in the ignition system and still no spark between the points. I concluded that "new" doesnt' mean "good". I replaced the new condensor with a known good condensor, and WHALA, chitty chitty bang gang..
Replace your condensor. Brian

It is still 6 volt. I'll have to ask him in the morning if he replaced the condenser (I think he did), and what the point gap is.

We tried checking for spark with one plug out and grounded while the engine cranked and no spark. We also cranked it over while the cap was off and I don't remember seeing any spark at the points either.

Take test light an place it on the terminal coming out of the distributor and the other end to a ground and with the switch on see if it lights up when the points are open.

If it does then have someone crank the engine to see if the light will flicker as the points open and close. As the points close the light should dim or go out because when the points close, they provide a ground for the negative side of the coil.

If the light stays on the point gap is too wide. If it doesn't light while cranking, the points are either closed all the time, or are grounded some other way.

You might want to undo he condenser wire while doing this to eliminate it from the test. Then if all looks good, add the condenser back in the circuit to see if it keeps the light off. If it does, then the condenser may be shorted.

You can use a 12 volt test light on 6 volt systems, it will just be a bit dimmer.

Ok, he got it running by putting a different set of points in it. Next question, what should the point gap and spark plug gaps be?

find the owners manual and shop manual here, if you're going to deal with the truck you should definitely have them both

Bill

Thanks Bill, that is an awesome site!!! Tons of information.