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Joined: Aug 2012
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OK The eng is in and running with no exhaust.How I need to know what Exhaust Manifolds will fit with clearance. I have a few manifolds on had that either I don't like the look or they don't clear. The drivers side is the issue because of the steering box. To me it looks like I need a manifold with the down spout at the rear and angled back. The passanger should be the same configeration as the drivers side. Need input and what year and model manifolds I need.

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R
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At one time I put in a 1957 283 in my 58. The stock exhaust manifolds went over the spark plugs and the outlets went right down the center between the two center spark plugs.

Those worked like a charm.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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you want a set of the original style rams horn manifolds, as Roy describes they exit at the center, fit perfect and work well, from the first 55 V8 up to at least late 60's, maybe 70's - like this, the vette 327 used a 2.5" that's best

Bill


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J
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Is the steering box original, or has it been swapped to a newer style? When Dr Frankenstein transplanted a 350/350 and a Cadillac power steering box into my '59 Apache he created all kinds of clearance issues (especially with the exhaust manifolds).

His solution was to install a drivers side exhaust manifold that dumps out the front. I think it looks like heck. That is another issue that I will need to address in the future.

John


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That is similar to what I have on the drivers side at this time. The only difference is that the down spout slants back not straight down and it clears. Thought that the slant back would be better especially on drivers side and if I was to add a GM PS box. Don't have a matching one for the pass side, also the one I have on has the holes for the AIR sys. Can plug but would rather have without. Does it matter car or truck 55 to late 60?
Originally Posted by red58
you want a set of the original style rams horn manifolds, as Roy describes they exit at the center, fit perfect and work well, from the first 55 V8 up to at least late 60's, maybe 70's - like this, the vette 327 used a 2.5" that's best

Bill

Last edited by CaddyTech; 08/30/2012 11:46 PM.
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for now it is original but want enough clearance if I add a GM PS box later.
Originally Posted by J Lucas
Is the steering box original, or has it been swapped to a newer style? When Dr Frankenstein transplanted a 350/350 and a Cadillac power steering box into my '59 Apache he created all kinds of clearance issues (especially with the exhaust manifolds).

His solution was to install a drivers side exhaust manifold that dumps out the front. I think it looks like heck. That is another issue that I will need to address in the future.

John

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R
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Are you keeping the straight axle, or using another type of suspension under the front? This would make a difference about the type of power steering box you would need. This might change whether or not the above manifold would work.

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Were those manifolds like red58 says in his post?
Originally Posted by Roy Rodgers
At one time I put in a 1957 283 in my 58. The stock exhaust manifolds went over the spark plugs and the outlets went right down the center between the two center spark plugs.

Those worked like a charm.

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B
Sir Searchalot
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You say "manifolds". Many headers will fit. Have used Hedman, etc. Have used the long tube kind not shorty's. Used headers or Rams Horns are fairly cheap. Always try them before buying. Craigslist. The Vette ones, as mentioned, really breathe well.

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I have a pair of brand new shorty block huggers for the 350. PM me if you want em.

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Yes, the manifolds I used are like the ones red58 found.

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The straight axle is staying for now.
Originally Posted by Roy Rodgers
Are you keeping the straight axle, or using another type of suspension under the front? This would make a difference about the type of power steering box you would need. This might change whether or not the above manifold would work.

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Not keen on using headers, they all eventialy crack. The 350 I put in the truck had Edlebrook headers on it and both were cracked.
Originally Posted by bartamos
You say "manifolds". Many headers will fit. Have used Hedman, etc. Have used the long tube kind not shorty's. Used headers or Rams Horns are fairly cheap. Always try them before buying. Craigslist. The Vette ones, as mentioned, really breathe well.

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B
Sir Searchalot
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Where do they crack? Just so you know, the picture that Red showed is an exhaust manifold, they do crack because they are cast. They sometimes crack because of thermal cycling. A header is made from steel tube with a 3/8 steel flange welded on to attach to the head. A collector is welded to the four tubes, to make one tube, to attach exhaust pipe. The words "manifold" and "header" are two different things. If your headers did crack, which they don't usually, you can weld them. Not easy to weld a manifold.

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Most OEM installations were cast iron for durability over the long haul.
The most tubing header utilization from OEM I've seen lately were the 4.0 Jeep of later years where the material was 400 grade heat resistant "stainless".The things break all to pieces and are Hail to weld reliably.The manufacturer seemed to change designs annually trying to make them reliable and they even used CI at one time.
Tubing headers made of common exhaust tubing steel are short lived in hard work situations because of rusting away.All these materials run at red heat when working hard and the steel just rusts away because of the heating/cooling cycles.
CI is more heat stable and enduring but some manifolds/headers are GOING to break because of poor design.
The inline 6 or 8 is difficult because of the greater length making greater overall growth.
The clamped up manifold assembly like Chevy 6 is to allow slight movement to prevent breaking.
Then the good old "slant 6" Mopar tried to bolt it tight and had to do some unconventional bolting to keep it in 1 piece.If you bolt one of these hard and fast it will soon be a 2 piece manifold.


Bob Taylor
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I know the difference between a manifold and a header. I was in the auto repair business for over 30yrs and over this time I have seen hundreds of crack headers.Most often they crack where the tubes go into the collector. In my time I have seen way more cracked headers then manifolds. I just took a pair of Edelbrook headers off this 350 engine and both were cracked.
Originally Posted by bartamos
Where do they crack? Just so you know, the picture that Red showed is an exhaust manifold, they do crack because they are cast. They sometimes crack because of thermal cycling. A header is made from steel tube with a 3/8 steel flange welded on to attach to the head. A collector is welded to the four tubes, to make one tube, to attach exhaust pipe. The words "manifold" and "header" are two different things. If your headers did crack, which they don't usually, you can weld them. Not easy to weld a manifold.

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Sir Searchalot
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The Jeep manifold is well known for it's cracking. Some are made with cast components. Cast manifolds crack a lot in many applications. Headers not much. Hot rodders, classic truckers, racers, performance vehicles and Off road all use headers without much trouble. If you live in the snow, everything rusts. Your whole car rusts. For the most part headers are not short lived. Manufactures used cast manifolds for one reason...price. Once you make the mold or die, the piece part is $1. If headers are build right of good material, they will last a long time, especially if coated. With headers you get weight reduction, HP, repairability and special fits.


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