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#876338 08/20/2012 11:54 PM
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I don't have a grille to bumper splash apron. I have a torch. Has anyone shortened the front bumper braces and moved the bumper back near the grille?

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You wouldn't be able to move it much that way. the bumper ends would dig into the fenders.


1948 Chevy 1/2-Ton
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Tom R #876351 08/21/2012 12:58 AM
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Bummer. Not many used and in decent shape around.
Thanks

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With my torch tho.... mmmm? Two little slots in the fenders, grind smooth, dab some paint. May have to get out the tape measure.

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even new those panels arent really that expensive... here ...its your truck and your build but i would sure go this route before i torched my fenders......dave


1949 Chevrolet 3100

"When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
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A rear bumper is flatter, why not use one of those so it doesn't hit the fenders? You'll probably also need to make a custom bracket. I believe the arms of the original pieces bend outwards immediately after passing the end of the frame.

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YOu can move the bumper in a bit, I've seen it done lots, and helped my dad do it on his '52. Unfortunately, due to the shape of the bumper you'll still have to make a filler pan to fill the space (can make one out of sheetmetal).

I wouldn't recommend using a torch for this though, use a grinder to cut and shorten the mounts, and a die grinder, dremel, or jigsaw to cut your filler panel. Torches are much too crude for fabrication like this.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

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Kidding about the torch, but not about the setback. My truck has a '70 Monte Carlo front clip. A rather new idea in '76 when installed. Front brackets are welded to MC frame so I can grind off welds and move maximum distance rearward.
I thought the front and rear bumpers were same on Panel Delivery. Is rear on PU fatter? This sounds promising.
I am also serious about grinding two slots in the front of the fenders or fabricating indentations there. I have looked at Briz contour bumper but would prefer a smooth finish as opposed to ribbed.
The apron does give a "finished look. Never had one. Guess the Panel has never been "finished"....lol.

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Yep. Sorry bout that, didn't make the panel connection. The pickup rear bumper from 47-53 was flatter than the front. The 54-55 rear had a dip in it for the rear plate.

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Will rear pickup bumper fit the front of panel without hitting the front fender if mover closer?

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It's flatter through out the middle and curves back less at the ends so it makes sense that you could move it back further than the more curved front bumper.

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Ho ho !! You da MAN ! Guess I'll have to find a pickup and do some measuring. That would really get the look I want.
I used StrongArm to remove 20 yr old surface rust on the present bumpers..what a shine it left, so I will start looking for a used one and buy after measuring. May need some altering with the brackets.
Many thanks to all. I will show results when finished.

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I'll get you those pictures of the front and rear bumpers for comparison asap.

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Exactly what I needed to see. I'll be at the shop this weekend and see how close that puts the bumper to the grill and (mis)alignment of brackets. I'll probably cut a cardboard bumper and stick up there to see what it looks like. This may actually work.

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A truck I saw ,the bumper had been reshaped to follow the curve of the grille,then followed the curve of the fenders.This was spaced out about 2" from the grille and fenders along the length of the bumper.It looked great.

BC52 #878924 08/29/2012 11:28 PM
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That could have been a "Briz" bumper. I like the formed shape also. I like those except for the $ and I'm going for a smoother, non-ribbed look to go with the ribs on the grille.


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