The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (Hotrod Lincoln, Wheelie, Peggy M, Jon G, 1 invisible), 594 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,781
Posts1,039,299
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#8773 05/18/2004 3:39 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 122
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 122
Anyone know how much vacuum should a 235 register at idle? I have a single 2bbl H-W carb on the engine and it seems that it may have too much vacuum right now. I have not measured it yet (job for tonight) but the vac advance is fully engaged as soon as the engine turns over. Is that normal? Also, how can I adjust things to help reduce the vacuum if necessary? The engine is idling awful rough right now. I have adjusted the points, sealed up the exhaust better, and tuned the carb. I am running out of answers so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


Steve
55 1st Series 3/4 ton
#8774 05/18/2004 4:50 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 734
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 734
Steve, I'm having the same problem on my 292. I put a new intake with a Rochester 2bbl and now I've got too much vacuum for the advance. If you've got a port that's above the throttle valves on your carb that should be a ported vacuum. At idle, it's supposed to have less vacuum than say, intake vacuum, so it doesn't screw with your advance. On my carb, it seems to have as much vacuum as the intake ports. I've been wanting to switch over to HEI so, I'm gonna do the swap and put on an adjustable vacuum advance and hope this solves the problem. Probably the first thing to check is where you're connected vacuum wise - determining if you've got a ported vacuum source. Hopefully this your problem and will be an easy fix. And if you get your timing squared away you may have to play with your idle and mixture again to dial it all in.


Tradin' up dimes for nickels...
'`'`'`'`'`'`
My \'65 Chevy C-20
#8775 05/18/2004 5:36 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 122
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 122
The vacuum port that I am connected to is above the throttle valves. I'm not sure if that makes it a ported valve or not, but I would guess so. I have not tried, but I wonder if it would make a difference if I disconnected the vacuum advance all together? Anyone know if that might help or hinder my attempts? Thanks again.


Steve
55 1st Series 3/4 ton
#8776 05/18/2004 6:11 PM
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 499
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 499
I'm not sure which 2 barrel either one of you guys are using. You are either using the wrong port or your throttle blades are open too far at idle.
The first thing I would look at is the timing. Assuming that you have already done that, I say you need to check the timing mark on the damper pully. You have to be 100% confident that this mark has not moved. These dampers go bad more often than on most engines because the belts are on the outer ring of the damper. The belts, the alternator, the fan, the water pump are all tugging on that ring and trying to make it break loose. On most V8's the pullys are bolted to the front on the inner part of the damper.


'67 GMC 3/4 292 4spd
#8777 05/18/2004 7:41 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
If the throttle blades are open too far at idle you can increase the bleed air a bit by drilling a small hole in the throttle blade and readjusting the idle to get the throttle closed more.
Also make sure your air cleaner isn't overly restrictive.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
#8778 05/19/2004 2:01 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 734
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 734
OK, so why might the throttle blades be open too far at idle? My 2G was a remanufactured one. Was it just assembled that way? Or maybe rebuilt for a different application and thus presents problems? I figured for the most part a 2G was a 2G.
4OnTheFloor, not sure I'm following your hole drilling advice.


Tradin' up dimes for nickels...
'`'`'`'`'`'`
My \'65 Chevy C-20
#8779 05/19/2004 2:15 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 41
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 41
"Anyone know how much vacuum should a 235 register at idle?"

*I say you need to check the timing mark on the damper pully."

Maybe on a 292 but not on a 235.

Steve, Do you have instructions for your specific carburetor? Mugsy's suggestion about wrong vacuum port is a good possibility.

Curmudgeon


Let's play together nicely.
#8780 05/19/2004 3:30 AM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,229
Red dot, center of chest ...
Red dot, center of chest ...
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,229
According to my Shop Manual, the vacuum reading at idle for a 216 should be 17-21 inches. I would assume the 235 is pretty similar.


Paul Schmehl CI 6
geek@stovebolt.com
Stovebolt Staff: Geek
#8781 05/19/2004 12:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
Try putting on a vac guage on the ported and non ported ports on the carb you are using and start the engine. If I remember correctly the 235ci with the Rochester single barrel pulled about 5-7 lbs of vac at idle thru the normal vac advance hook up. This vac will be different than the advertised direct manifold vac of 17-22. Hope this helps.


"Drugs are money, money is power, power is security." - Kent Heiner
Nedrow population 2212
Carbon footprint family of 2/11 tonnes of CO2/yr
#8782 05/19/2004 2:40 PM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 252
Y
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Y Offline
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 252
FWIW, I concur with 52pu. I hooked a vac gauge to the port on the Roch. "B", where the vac advance from the distributor goes, and I am getting 9" of Vac. Hooked the same gauge to the intake port below the carb and I get 19".

#8783 05/19/2004 3:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 122
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 122
Thanks guys, that gives me a place to start. I plan to check the port that I am connected to tonight and check how much vacuum is being pulled at that port. I will fill you in once I find out where I stand, but my bet is that the port is pulling too much vacuum.


Steve
55 1st Series 3/4 ton
#8784 05/19/2004 3:40 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
Probably the easiest thing to do to limit the vac using an after market 2 or 4 barrel carb would be to limit the travel of the old vac advance arm by drilling multiple holes along the arm and pinning. Some experimenting will be necessary to find just the right amount of travel without pinging. Ultimately you may have to completely disconnect the vac advance. The newer HEI set-ups you can buy the adjustable vac advance.


"Drugs are money, money is power, power is security." - Kent Heiner
Nedrow population 2212
Carbon footprint family of 2/11 tonnes of CO2/yr

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.032s Queries: 13 (0.027s) Memory: 0.6457 MB (Peak: 0.7332 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 22:23:17 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS