The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 58 Apache Eng Swap 235 to SB

New site member here. Does any one have or know where I can find measurements for installing a aftermarket V8 eng crossmember in a 58 Apache Stepside. I'm removing the straight 6 and replacing with a chevy SB. Don't want to play with moving eng around in eng compartment if I don't have to.
About me: I'm a retired GM Tech and live in TN.

welcome to the garage Tech, you don't really need measurements, just start from the trans and work forward, the small block mates to the trans the same as the 235, using the same rear crossmember to catch the bellhousing .... the modification you'll need is adding a fan shroud as the V8 is so much shorter .... also, if you want an HEI on it you'll likely need to massage the firewall a bit .... here's a shot of the factory front mounts on the V8, and this is a shround from a 60's car that's basically the same as originally used on the TF series trucks

hope that helps, and looking forward to a story on your project in the DITY forum with links to some pictures - we all like pictures

Bill

You will also need the V-8 bellhousing. The 6 cylinder bell housing will not work with the V-8

Not sure what year V8 or what tranny you want but 6 cyl and V8 bellhousings are same from 1963 on. Your 6 cyl BH will not work with V8 if that is what you are thinking. The pre 63 6 cyl and V8 bellhousings mount to frame the same and clutch pivot is the same but not bolt pattern. It is ALWAYS ALWAYS better to mock it up before installing motor swaps/crosmembers. No need to fix firewall if you mock up with THE engine or a spare block. You will probably have to modify driveshaft length, $40. Those tubular, bracketed, eng crossmember mounts are best.(I prefer the side mount motor mounts unless you use an older V8, then no choice)$55. Transmission crossmembers come in the tubular/bracketed type also,$45.(older truck bellhousings come with side mount pads) You can bolt those X-members all up to engine and tranny, then mark them for frame drilling. This will be fool proof. You can screw up measuring, estimating, and forgetting things, like starter clearance, linkage, exhaust, Distributor (as mentioned), fan clearance, transmission clearance, engine angle (level carb), pinion angle, steering clearance.... Do the extra work, save a lot of headaches!!! Front clip comes off in one piece, piece of cake. Much easier to work on that way.

The V8 will fit right in the stock location for it. You can get the front frame mounts at most of the truck parts places. You need the V8 block that has the 2 per side holes drilled and tapped, and the mounts that fit them. That way you don't have to add some junk to the truck that the factory didn't put there.
Its real simple deal to swap a 6 for an 8 if you got the correct oem parts. And of course the bellhousing with the mounts as well.

I should have been more specific, sorry.The motor and trans is coming out of my 55 chevy 2dr, it is an 86 SB TA motor and a worked 350 trans. I won't be using the original front eng mounts or the trans crossmember. I bought an Eng and trans tubular crossmember fron CP.
Are there any specs, measurements available for the placement of the Eng crossmember to the chasis?

never seen any measurements for starting with a bare chassis, but if you haven't taken out the bellhousing cross member, you can still do as I said above and get the positioning of the aftermarket trans and engine mounts by measuring from there .... note that installing that engine mount cross member can make your stock e-brake linkage not work, so you may need to shift a bit forward and/or modify the mount .... and you'll still need a fan shroud

Bill

Well here's the deal, mock it up. If you don't want to for some reason, you need to decide where you want the tranny then measure all the parts "stack up" to get to the side motor mounts and thus the tubular eng mount location..or decide where you want the motor and measure the "stack up" to the trans mount. This is not the way to do it but if you want the measure method, this is it. You may miss something as I mentioned above. BTW I have installed BBC and SBC in TF several times and always mocked it up because, like you, I was using newer motor, trans and tubular mounts. Nobody will have the measurement you need. If they do, do you want to drill and fab from someone elses numbers?

Looks like I will do the mock up. Pulled the eng and trans today, powerwashed the eng compartment and painted it. Now I have to pull the eng and trans from the 55. Is there a diagram with the bolt locations to remove the front clip? What else needs to be removed to pull the front clip.

a factory assembly manual would be very useful if you plan on keeping the truck ... on the front clip [truck, but car is much the same], there's bolts at the top and bottom rear of the fenders - to the cowl at top, to brackets under the toe board and at the bottom of the cowl - and then if the bolts holding the bottom of the rad core support are removed, the whole clip can be pulled off in one piece, including the rad and grill

Bill

Drill two small 1/8 holes in flange of hood hinges where it mounts to firewall and remove hood with hinges attached or drill those holes in the hood to hinge mount and leave hinges attached to firewall but don't puncture or dimple hood while drilling. This will put hood exactly back where it was by inserting drill bits in holes (as guide pins) before tighten bolts. Remove one end of fender braces inside wheel well, remove radiator, remove bumper. Clip is mounted with 8 bolts. top rear of fenders, bottom rear corner of fender, inboard from there near frame is a stick out bracket and up front two body mounts to front of frame. Don't take out grill, inner fenders or hood latch crossover or radiator crossover assy. It all stays together. Need two or three strong people to lift or cherry picker if you are like me and don't have any friends.(it weighs approx 200 lbs) Save and document shims as you find them. Going by memory but you can figure it out by examination. Of course you have to release all wiring harness connections and harness tie downs. You are a GM tech, you should be OK. I am retired also. Honeywell Mechanical Engineer. We old boys can do this. Just can't remember everything after it's done. I use only AARP Hardware. I think that's the name.

OOPs Sorry Bill was posting while you were posting. Hope we don't conflict.

I want to thank you and everone else that has help with their usefull info.

Thanks
I will let you know how it works out.

After the eng and trans is in the 58, I will put the new 350 with 7004r in the 55. I have the 55 over 30 yrs and am redoing the whole car. Recently had the body repainted.