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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 55 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 55 | Another question, I was going to go the route and replace my entire floor. They sale the complete floor now. Has any one done one? I would asume I have to put braces in the cab to hold it square before I drop the floor out? Any help? | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 55 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 55 | Sorry it's a pickup 5 window | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 | Did you ever replace the floor? I'm going to do the same thing. MAking my own floor to save money and wanted to know if you are removing it from the cab first? See in done both ways . | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | It's always a good idea to brace up the cab with square tubing or angle iron before you cut substantial amounts of sheetmetal out.
wooddiver, If you're restoring your truck, you'll probably find that if you're going to replace the entire floor, that in the end it would have been worth it just to buy it instead of making it yourself. If you're rodding the truck, then making it is fine since it doesn't need to look so original. | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 | Thanks for the advise. It a rat rod truck. Still not sure what would be easier removing or welding new floor in place. | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 303 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2010 Posts: 303 | leave the cab on the truck, then weld in the new floor, the patch panels usually come in 2 halves. Or if your just making a rat rod use liscense plates galvanized roofing whatever. After you get the floor welded in pretty good. You can then take the cab off the frame if you want and weld it from the underside. You can do it with the cab off but you have to make sure to tack weld some braces in place first or your cab will get out of square and you will have a heck of a time getting your doors to close right.
Last edited by tracern1; 08/15/2012 9:12 PM.
| | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 | Was going to use regular sheet steel and then coat it with bad line to cut down on the noise and prevent rust. | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | Are you going to put any beads or bends or hammer forming in it or just leave it flat like a drum head skin? Now theres an idea! a 'tuned pan' like a random steel drum running down a gravel road accompanied by the driving beats of a six cylinder...
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 4 | Plan was to roll beads in it. Lap the edges weld beads, paint, and enjoy. Just think and trying to get the plan together before I redeploy in a few weeks. | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | you might check out MP&C's threads and Hammer Forming while your in the research mode then. He's got some great advice and how to's.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
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