The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun How to remove rear drums?

I hope you guys can get used to me posting a lot of (maybe) stupid questions on this board. This is my first major old-car project. I don't mind learning as I go but some of these things don't make a lot of sense to me and your help is appreciated!

I need to figure out how to remove the rear drum. I found a service manual and it said that I did not have to remove the hub flange and hub to remove it.... It said that there were two bolts that held the drum on, but I'm not seeing those. Do I have to pull the hub flange and then the axles to get the drum off? Here's the photo.

http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu79/rbosworth/20120808_082525.jpg

In your pic the 2:00 position looks like a countersunk hole, that is where one of the "two bolts", really screws, would have been. If you don't have any then the drum is ready to come off.
May need to back the brake adjuster off and use some penetrating oil on the hub/studs. Sometimes it can be difficult if it's rusted in place.

Grigg

After adjusting the brakes in and soaking in penetrating oil, If you have to use a hammer, tap around the mounting flange, being careful not to hit the studs. This will usually break the rust loose. You do not want to hammer anywhere else or you risk cracking or warping the drum.

Thanks, guys! Wheels spin freely so I don't think that the shoes are engaged. I thought that the studs were pressed into this drum like the front ones were. Knowing that it pulls off from the studs will help me. I'll let you know how it goes!

I just took mine off. It took some effort but I was able to pry them off. Mine were at first stuck but I was able to loosen them enough to get the drum about a 1/2" away from the backing plate. At that point it would go no further. I used wood blocks resting on the leaf springs to the drum to give me solid backing for a pry bar. With a little effort (not too much, didn't want to crack the drums), I was able to get them off. The problem is that the inner pad wore a groove in the drum causing it to hang up. Basically a worn drum with a higher outer edge that the drum won't slide over on it's own.

The front drums should not have the studs "pressed into the drums". They come off the same as the back ones but they are sometimes frozen to the hub.

I had the same problem with mine. There was lots of cursing, trying to get the retainin screws out. After that, the drum wouldn't even budge. I resorted to prying the drum off. Being careful and not to bend the backing plate. Well, the shoe lining ended up seperating from the shoe and the drum did come off.

There are originally two counter sunk flat head screws that hold the drum on. If your truck does not have the screws, then the drum is probably just rusted in place. I had the same problem on my 49. I had to soak everything in penetrating oil and bang like hell(carefully) with an 8 lb hammer. It will eventually come off. By the way, if you do bend the backing plate, (like I did) it's not that big a deal to straighten it back out once you get the drum off.

Thanks guys! Gave everything a liberal spray of Freeze Off, soaked over night and then 3-4 good bangs on the flange with an 8lb hammer knocked them both right off.

Good news: all the pads look brand new. Drums are 8/10 but I'm going to see about having them turned. Amazed how thin those things are so I'm not sure if my local guy will turn them for me.

Bad news: Both return springs are broken. Anyone have a part # for these? Also -- one of the adjusters is broken. Looks like the wheel is welded to the nut? The wheel on one of them was just sitting in the bottom of the drum. I can't see any way to install a new one without just cleaning the bolt up and putting a little weld on there. Is that the only way? How necessary? I don't have a welder!

Huh! I never even considered this. I took off the entire outer dually hub-extension which was frozen to the inner hub which was frozen to the brake drum. I'll try to seperate them this weekend. It will certainly make re-installing (and adjusting the cylinders) worlds easier.

On your drums don't turn them if you don't have to. They are not available new and anything you turn off reduces their life. I'd only have them checked for running true and turn the lip if any off. Don't cut the braking surface if they look good and are true already.

You may find replacement springs and adjusters at the auto parts store. 3B might have some part numbers for you, or he has probably provided them to someone else already if you search the forum a little.
You DO need the adjusters to work, they are very necessary.

Grigg

Personally I would not remove the front frums from the hubs unless I was replacing them.

What does 8/10 mean in your description of the rear drums?

On the working surface, no pitting or rust. No cracks. There is scoring but nothing that seems too bad and there isn't any kind of lip on the inside or outside edge.