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Hello, does anyone know of a acid metal cleaner that can be purchased at a hardware store that I can dip/soak old rusted car parts in that will clean them up good?

I've heard great things about evaporust. I've never used it but it's supposed to be very acidic and do exactly what you've described.

I use a small ultrasonic cleaner w/ various solutions. Eats the rust away and leaves parts looking brand new. Harbor Freight sells the model that I have for under $80. Depends on how large the parts that you have are but if they fit, it's a great way to do it.

what's the name of the ultrasonic cleaner you use?

check the tech tip about electrolytic de-rusting, works great and very inexpensive

Bill

does anyone know the name of the acid they use to dip car parts in before they dip them in chrome?

Using strong acids can adversly effect the metal your trying to save unless your not in a hurry and if your not in a hurry reverse electrolysis is way less labor intensive and safer with no future concern about paint failure biting you in the... End.

I'm not sure of the pre-chrome acid, but for de-rusting of parts that are not subjected to much stress, I use vinegar. Cheap and safe, but it takes a few days for heavy rust. I've also used evapo-rust. It works great.

For parts that are subjected to a lot of stress (engine, driveline, steering, etc) acid should not be used. It can result in hydrogen embrittlement of the material and the part can fail under stress. Plating also can result in hydrogen embrittlement. For high stress parts platers should bake the part immediately after plating to drive the hydrogen out. (If I remember correctly, it's 400 degrees for several hours).

Evapo-rust is fairly neutral pH and is safe on your skin. It's my understanding that it doesn't produce hydrogen embrittlement.

Dave Evans
52_3100

I doubt you'll find any hydrochloric, hydrofluoric, or sulfuric acid at a hardware store, especially in Cali ... the chrome process varies, but doesn't normally involve real de-rusting

Bill

FLAPS sell the 'hard' stuff... It's called "Battery Acid" and will eat your fingers off.

The hydrogen also reverses itself naturaly if you let it sit for several weeks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

I'm still working on finding the best solutions. Purple Power absolutely kills any grease/dirt. Vinegar seems to do a pretty good job on rust.

This thread got me wondering about road tars and undercoatings in fender wells and similar places. From my experience none of the strippers have removed any and neither did reverse electrolysis.
I say that from experience, having tried both routes trying to get paint to stick inside my fenders, on the advice of the guy who manufactures the paint I use, I finally borrowed a 40# sand blaster and got the job done right. At least I haven't been able to blow the paint off with an air nozzle like I could before.

So while I have been resisting the whole 'Blasting' thing for years as a C.heap A.ss S.tovebolt O.wner I have finally been converted. (you still have to be careful about the media you use)

For small intricate parts I can see the usefulness of a liquid stripper, but I see them now more as 'specialty' tools when 'better' tools don't fit.

I work at the local NAPA store and we just put out on display rust remover soak made by WD40. Not sure of all the details but it was a gallon jug.

The Evaporust is good for things like rusted carburetors where there are other metals involved. It does not affect the other metals or plastic.

you can build an ultrasonic cleaner with an old sander. look it up on youtube. Mine works great for the little parts. For the bigger stuff I use the electrolysis, and gives me time to do other stuff. As for the undercoating... I'm a fan of a 4.5" grinder with a aggressive wire brush. Then coat it with evapo. wash and repeat, then seal it.