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Wheels and tires --- What to do? #867617 Wed Jul 18 2012 12:48 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,134
G
Grigg Offline OP
.
Possibly the most asked questions about Big Bolts relate to wheels and tires.
We have a Tech Tip with many of these answers and options already covered.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/
Please also check out our other Big Bolt Tech Tips
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/#big

The short answer is in most cases the original wheels and tires if in decent shape are your best option, there is nothing wrong with tube type wheels/tires. Most (but not all) truck and equipment tire shops will service them or you can yourself and you can still buy tires.

Now your next question might be what about "split rims" or "Widow makers"?
Most all of the wheels in question are "Multi-Piece Wheels"
See this picture of some of the many possibilities
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/images/49_budd_catalog.jpg
Of all those the ONLY one rim design to avoid, the true "Widow maker", is the Firestone RH-5* shown in the bottom left. Also shown in real life here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NPayDScJdFZbxNGw2

If you're building an everyday driver with a modern drivetrain then perhaps newer tubeless wheels/tires are a decent option. Please see the tech tip for those options and considerations.


The following links will help you safely work with original multi piece wheels, what to look for and how to mount and dismount them.

OSHA tire charts, a great reference and they're FREE
http://www.kentool.com/index.php/resources/osha-tire-charts

OSHA manual for "Servicing Single-Piece and Multi-Piece Rim Wheels" Website:
https://www.osha.gov/Publications/OSHA3086/osha3086.html
PDF version of same:
https://www.osha.gov/Publications/osha3086.pdf

An excellent how to manual:
http://www.accuridecorp.com/files/2...vice-Manual-ACC7-0002-Rev-4-06-22-12.pdf

Another good resource with some how to, start on about page S-25
https://www.titan-intl.com/-/media/Files/Safety-Information-2013.ashx

Grigg

Last edited by Grigg; Tue May 29 2018 01:42 PM. Reason: more info

1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #889497 Mon Oct 15 2012 10:13 AM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4
W
warren keillor Offline
New Guy
I changed all the tires on my 54 1.5 ton without any special tools except some big "C" clamps. It was surprisingly easy to do the Bud AR split rims, both off with the old, and on with the new tires.
No rims were beaten or tortured in this operation. They were completely cleaned, power wire brushed, phosphate treated, primed, and painted. The new 700X18 tires came with inner boots to protect the tubes. Specialty Tire of America made the tires at very competitive prices to similar modern tires.
Cheers Warren

Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #894158 Sat Nov 03 2012 12:11 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 19,116
H
Hotrod Lincoln Offline
Boltergeist
Unless the tires are rusted tight to the rims, the oldtime duckbill-shaped hammer is still the most efficient way to dismantle tires from split-rim type wheels. All it takes is a little practice, learning how to hit the tire/wheel junction, not the wheel. Anybody with a little bit of coordination and average upper body strength can do it. One step up the ladder is the slide-hammer type tool that breaks the bead down without having to swing a hammer. Those things are a bit more expensive than the hammer, but if you're planning to keep the truck for a while, the tool will pay for itself with just a few tire changes.

Two items that are absolutely essential are a clip-on inflater chuck on a long hose with a ball valve, so the tire can be inflated from a safe distance away, and a heavy chain to wrap around the tire/wheel assembly in several places if an inflation cage isn't available. Several tons of force bearing on the lip of the rim is not something to take chances with. Once the rim is assembled properly and inflated to the right pressure, it's not dangerous. The design of the rim locks it together securely. Getting the pressure in there in the first place is where a damaged or incorrectly-assembled rim will show up as an explosive separation of the parts.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #901826 Fri Dec 07 2012 09:10 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 502
G
glasman Offline
Shop Shark
I guess I should go to Canada and look for some wheels. I obtained 8 good looking 3 piece wheels with the hope of replacing my widow makers which came on my 2ton.
Off to the tire shop I went with 4 of the best looking ones. Actually none of these had any rust on the outside to speak of.

The result at the tire shop was a big disappoint because the air powered bead breaker could only break one tire off the rim.
After removing the tire it was apparent why. Even though the outside was rust free the inside was not, probably due to condensation and the inability to dry out on the inside.

Now I tried this at another tire shop, one which deals with mostly truck tires and had the same result.
I guess the moral of this story is...don't get your hopes up until you see the inside of the wheel, providing you can get the tire off.

Dan


Remember your freedom - US Veterans provided it.
101st Screaming Eagles
Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #1028978 Fri May 16 2014 03:32 AM
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12
A
Axe64 Offline
New Guy
I have work on heavy equipment for a lot of years and have changed tires on 2 and 3 piece rims, I have had to use a backhoe at times to back them down. I have also seen a hole in the roof of a shop 15 ft high and knew of a man loosing his head from these rims. Gentlemen if you do want to use these rims please put them in a cage or wrap them with chains before putting air to them. Please be safe Axe

Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #1055024 Tue Sep 09 2014 03:30 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,134
G
Grigg Offline OP
.
Video about the dangers of damaged wheels and the force stored in a tire, be careful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnyh78wjZ1o&list=PLdfcOeh9SQfk0bnfRUHh9VsRcVHoTYLjU


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #1124493 Wed Sep 16 2015 05:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 48
D
distributorguy Offline
Wrench Fetcher
I simply dropped off my rear wheels (duals) at a local farm tire co-op and they didn't bat an eye at them. The only comment they made was about corrosion being a factor in being able to reuse them, and used replacements were available cheap if I needed them. Good farm tires (fairly aggressive tread) were only $120 each if I recall correctly. Under $700 for the set mounted with all the goodies.

Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #1151898 Wed Feb 24 2016 05:08 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,134
G
Grigg Offline OP
.
Thanks for reading this thread,

If you have more specific questions about your own wheel and tire situation Please first search the forum, you may find the answer pretty quick.
If no luck perhaps you've found a good thread closely related to your question. Reply and present your questions in those related existing threads or if needed start a new thread/topic.

If some basic info is missing or wrong here please send me a PM and I'll address the problem.
Likewise if you find a new useful resource about wheels and tires and our trucks please let me know.


Grigg

P.S. Please do not PM me your personal wheel and tire questions.
This public forum works, builds, and strengthens with each new discussion, question, and answer.
Sending me a Private Message to ask about your wheels or what not will not help existing and future Stovebolters.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Re: Wheels and tires --- What to do? [Re: Grigg] #1250530 Fri Jan 12 2018 01:13 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,134
G
Grigg Offline OP
.
Just found some info on wheel and hub fit.
SAE standard J694 revised 2001-02 “Disc Wheel/Hub or Drum Interface Dimensions — Commercial Vehicles “

10 lug with 7.25” bolt circle.

Bore in wheel:
Steel, 5.251/5.261”
Aluminum, 5.251/5.254”

Hub pilot diameter:
5.245/5.250”

Pilot length:
Single, 0.28”
Dual steel, 0.52”
Dual aluminum, 0.85”

Those dimensions will be useful if either boring older wheels with the smaller 4.75” center bore (or older and smaller) to fit the ~1955 and later hubs with 5.25” pilot.

Also, if making bushings to adapt later wheels to older smaller hubs you would shrink fit steel bushings on the hubs and ensure the OD is as listed, and suggested lengths.


The standard was first issued May of 1955, so earlier revisions may or may not have similar tolerances listed for the 4.75” center bore wheels and matching hubs, as about this time GM switched to 5.25” bore. I don’t have an earlier copy.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

Moderated by  69Cuda, Grigg 

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