BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| |
14 members (klhansen, RBs36, TUTS 59, 46 Texaco, BLUEMEANIE, Gib70, Ponchogl, mvigo, Leo, Possum, Deegs53, niobrarafun, 2 invisible),
568
guests, and
1
robot. | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,277 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 71 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 71 | Can someone share some info on the procedure for timing the ign on the '42 Chevy 216? still 6 volt system.
Last edited by ridgeview; 06/09/2012 11:41 PM.
Ridge dweller
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Do you have a timing light? If so, follow the procedure in the Shop Manual. If not, do you have a vacuum gauge? Adjust the the distributor to give maximum vacuum on a warmed up engine at idle. Some people have logically suggested to set for maximum vacuum at or around cruising RPM, around 2000. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 936 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 936 | - Companion cylinder method of finding TDC (from Mikestem) -- Take the valve cover off, watch #6 rockers. and as you turn the engine over by hand (take plugs out first), watch the last two valves. When the last valve (exhaust) is coming back up and the 2nd-to-last valve (intake) is just starting to go down, Cylinder 1 is at or approaching TDC. - Now watch for the proper mark (check manual, I think its a "TC" or something) in the flywheel window, and stop turning when it's under the pointer. - Take the cap off the dizzy and verify that the rotor is pointing at #1 wire, and the points are just barely starting to open.
To set timing you'll be using the BB and window pointer. You can use a 12v timing light to dial it in if you attach the + and - leads to a 12v battery and put the wire clamp on the #1 6v wire. I also find it helps to mark the BB and the pointer with a white grease pen (I marked the other flywheel symbols with different colors). | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | Here is how I have been timing the engine in my '51 burb since 1973.
If you don't want to take the valve cover off, just turn the engine so that the rotor is pointing to the number one contact position on the cap. Watch carefully for the BB. When the BB is lined up with the pointer, you are good.
Taking the sparkplugs out makes it real easy to turn the engine over with the fan (use one hand to press the belt between the fan and genny or crank pully while turning with the other hand) I usually don't take the plugs out, but be sure the ignition is OFF if you don't take the plugs out.
I have never had a timing light, and I have always just static timed the engine. The trick is to loosen the bolt and slowly turn the distributor until the points just open. You will want to have correctly gapped the points first. Have the ignition on, and you may see/hear a little spark when the points open. Alternatively you can use a simple test lamp that has a light and probe to tell when the points just open.
At this point she should fire up just fine. Go for a drive, warm it up and then floor it in 3rd gear while going 25 or 30. If you hear the engine spark knock, you need to retard the timing a bit.
I have good power and fuel economy using this method, but it's not for everyone, and if you have a sloppy distributor, it may be hard to dial it in.
Kurt | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | The method Kurt suggests, is what I do too. I usedacould have a timing light, but I dropped it. With or without the light, the road test is required for maximum power and economy. Plus, its fun. | | |
| |