The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Help In Installing a 5831 Auxiliary Transmission!!

I am trying to install a Spicer 5831 auxiliary trans in my 1942 one a half ton truck. I would like to know what mistakes people have made in their installation so my truck does't looks like a piece of Swiss cheese. Can the front driveshaft be to long or to short, does the auxillary trans need to be level or can it be tipped? How much drop per inch in the front and rear driveshaft is to much? Also anything else you think my help me out in doing the job right the first time. I can call you or you can call me if you like. Thanks for your time and input!!! 1-262-392-2989 or mribbich@wi.rr.com

Marv.

I just finished mounting my aux tranny in a 46 COE, the front driveshaft was about 25" the rear was 36". My aux. tanny is bascially level. Both driveshafts are at aprox. 5 angles. I just winged it and it works good.

jrpontiac,

I read on the internet that the auxiliary trans should to at the same angle as the trans on tuck and the angle on both driveshafts to be a minimun of 1/2 degree and not more than 3 degrees, 1 to 1-1/2 degrees is recommended. Found it on the web site www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF Thanks!!!!

Marv.

Unless you are going to drop your transmission there isn't a whole lot you can do about the drive shaft angle, it is what it is. I've had lifted Jeeps with driveshaft angles way past 5 degrees, never had any problems.

Hi Marvin. I mounted mine so the rear u-joint of the brownie was at the same location as the carrier bearing. So that way the rear drive line length didn't have to be altered. I was lucky in that the u-joint of the carrier bearing and the back u-joint of the brownie were the same, so that was just a bolt up operation. The front drive shaft had to be shortened and a slip joint added too. I put the brownie at the same elevation as the carrier bearing, so the rear drive shaft is also at the same angle as stock. The front drive shaft is at a bit more of an angle now than stock because it's shorter, but I haven't had any trouble.

You'll love it once it's installed and good luck.

Paul.

I have not mounted it yet, but am still trying to find the best spot to place it. Right now it is sitting at the same angle as the transmission and it is 14" back but there is a 2" drop I would end up with a 16" drive shaft and from what I figure would about 7 degrees of angle, the rear driveshaft would be 40" long and have a 3" drop for a 4-1/2 degrees of angle. I am limted on raising it by the cross member that the center bearing was mounted to, if I move it back and raise it up to the floor than I would have trouble with the brake rods that go to the rear emergency brake cables the cross members of the auxiliary would be hitting them. Also if I remember right it would give me a 30" front drivshaft with a 2" drop and a 26" rear driveshaft with a 3" drop. I was told the shorter the front driveshaft the better as long as you can keep your angles right. I should have told you guys I am working with a 1942 Chevy 1-1/2 ton duel wheel panel truck and the floor boards keep me from going any higher with the trans, sorry about that. I am in no hurry to get this done but would like it done the first time right. I hope one can not ask to many questions. Thanks again to all!!! By the way I had the web site wrong it should be right now.

Marv.

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

This really is one of those times to go with an expert(Spicer) and follow what they say....hope I don't offend anyone on here, but just because you have never had a problem with a certain set up does not make it right. Vehicles all see different use by different people which will affect what problems people see.

Have a read....if you still have questions then we are here to help, but I think they do a great job of explaining how and just as important WHY you should do it a certain way.

Tad

I'll second that!

And we have a tech tip with the info direct from Spicer (Newest they have)
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/index.html

Not to step on anyones toes but It's hard to count the number of times I've read and received poor, incomplete, and/or plain wrong info about installing driveshafts.
PLEASE read the Spicer manual.

Grigg

Manuals are for sissys, I think Marv should wing it. I read documentation that it works 87% of the time.

With the way things are going for me this week I'll be part of the 13%. My trans on my 2003 Ford minivan just took a dump to the tune of $1,500 OCH!!!!!!!!

Marv.

Got the 5831 installed and took for a test ride, happy to say at the moment everthing is great it goes like the wind. The only trouble I am having beening a 1-1/2 ton panel truck the noise inside the truck is very loud. Is there something I can do to cut the sound down into the truck? One thing I was thinking of a heavier gear lube or some type of additive in the 4 speed, auxiliary and the rear end I only use the truck in warm weather. I may have to go with some type of sound deading on the panel truck floor but would do that only as a last resort don't really want to cover up the wood floor. Hear plugs my work but I would not hear the police siren coming to pull me over for speeding. Thanks to all who help me so far!!!!

Marv.

Maybe some undercoating on the underside of the floor? I know it used to be advertised as sound deadner.

Sound deadening on the insides of the panel truck is probably the most bang for the buck.

If the transmission is making unusual amounts of noise on it's own (it'll never be dead quite) then pull it apart and see what's worn. I would only use the recommended oil in it and possibly an additive, if you use something to thick it may not lube as designed and might be hard shifting too.

Grigg

I second Grigg on making sure you stick with the recommended Lube in everything.

Do you have much room between the auxiliary and the floor to put something above it and below the floor? I know they make some spray on sound deadeners that are supposed to be pretty good. If you were to spray one of those on the underside of the floor with perhaps another shield layer added above the transmission (Similar to how a heat shield would be installed) also with undercoating sprayed on it you might get quieter.

I looked at a 3M product. 3M product info
-it states "Significant reduction of chipping and road noise"

How did the install end up going? Were you able to get the angles pretty close to recommended? If you get a chance and are able post a few pictures.

Tad

The more I looked at the information on the web the better I was able to understand it. The RPM of your engine is a big part of what your angles should be the way I see it. Have taken it out a few more time and got it up to 55mph with the RPM at 2,000 but feel much more at ease at 50mph. If anyone would like pictures of the install you can email me at mribbich@wi.rr.com Thanks to all for your help!!!!!!!!!

Marv.

If I were you,Marv,I'd listen to Grigg. Anyone who has the patience,knowledge and common sense,to install a Diesel in an old A.D. truck has been around the block with these things at least a couple of times!! No offense,jrpontiac.

Hi,

If you will check, you should find that plane/angle of the center line of the engines crank shaft is at the same plane/angle as the pinion shaft of the rear axle, with regards to the line/plane of the frame.

It is most important that the plane/angle of the aux. trans be the same as the engine and rear axle. U-joints will last longer.

The length of the drive shaft should be long enough so it can be easily install and removed. The angle is not that important, it is that you maintain the same plane as the engine and trans.

I spent many years working for Standard Auto Body in L.A. installing aux. gear boxes, PTOs and Hydraulic systems for utility company vehicles. I also, worked for Jumbo Equipment Co. doing the same type of work.

If you have enough length, do as PaulyBuilt, Use the rear U-joint on aux trans in place of the Drive Shaft carrier bearing (Center Support Bearing).

Good Luck, hope this is of some help.

GMCPic

I've seen you running around in Albany. Great looking truck!

I'm the guy in the 03 Ram 2500 that's always gawking.

On my ol' 1951 truck with a non-syncro 4 speed,I drained it and re-filled it with fresh 90wt and added 2 cans of STP;that made a lot of difference,then I put down some sound proofing and carped in the cab. that did the trick for THAT truck;being a Brownie though you should find out what oil is recommended for it. I'm sure there's some kind of additive that would help. I'm going to try changing my own Brownie over to synthetic 50W oil,and I'm installing a trans. temp. gauge so I can monitor it for a while. (Might turn out to be a bad move,but I've been running synthetic engine oil of a similar viscosity to the OEM oil in the Transfer Case of my Bronco II for a couple of years of HARD use,and it's still working great.) This is only how I'd play it,you should check with the oil manufacturers and see what best fits the requirements of your transmission before you make changes.
Speed