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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,057,056 Members48,463 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 | so i made the mistake of taking the rubber weather strip of the windshield off before sending it to the painter.
now i cant get it back in the grove...
someone has to have a tried and true secret because this is getting painful.
thanks | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,378 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,378 |
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 | hmmm... that seems like it would work when the rubber is placed directly to the body of the car..
on my 1941 chevy truck the windshield cranks out to allow fresh air in, and with my windshield cranked in the out position it makes for a rather difficult time..
so, i guess i could try and crank the windshield back into the sealed or closed position and try the " soapy rope ".... | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,378 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,378 | You might zip a PM to jockbolter50. He's an auto glass installer by profession. He can probably guide you through the process.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | You might zip a PM to jockbolter50. He's an auto glass installer by profession. He can probably guide you through the process. Bighouses,firstly welcome. I'll save you the trouble of typing a message,as Tiny mentions i'm a glass guy but to be honest have little experience with the early 40s Chevy trucks. Are you referring to the glass/frame rubber or the frame to body seal? I assume like most windshield frames of that era the frame to body rubber locates in a groove with a 'T' shaped profile? If so it sounds to me like the extra paint thickness is possibly causing the rubber to bind. Could you post any pics of the offending part/s to allow a more accurate diagnosis? Thanks
Last edited by jockbolter50; 05/06/2012 9:45 PM.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | I had same issue when reassembling my '40 windshield - problem was rubber weatherstrip from Jim Carter's - it was stiff, and impossible to thread into the " Tee " groove on the windshield frame. I bought new from Steeles Rubber and it slid in like a dream. You need to get it snug, and " weld " the butt joint of the rubber together. Steeles recommended a special adhesive which ended up looking like a Superglue type product. End result was a good fit, with a flexible leg which fits pretty tight against the body for a good seal. As for the glass install, I had an Auto glass shop install glass to frame sections with polyeurethane sealant - looks great / seals tight.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 | thats exactly what it is the rubber gasket that goes around the winshield..
unbelievable it wont stay in the groove. i tried the soapy water what a mess..
shoulda kept the old one on and painted around it.. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 | i"ll try steeles rubber unless i get a better solution ? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | look here: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/windows/rubber/i did it by myself. you need a plastic stab tool to get the rubber to seat in the groove. put the splice at the bottom center of the window. i dont think it matters who's rubber you use it still goes in the same method. if your trying this with the frame in place remove the window frame from the truck, it will make it a lot simpler. | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | Its does matter whose rubber you use. The one I had from Carter was hard and inflexible. Even if I had been able to get the darn thing into the frame, it would not have flexed properly against the body to seal the opening. Steeles is a much superior product. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2012 Posts: 13 | ok i took the windshield off and with the help of a putty knife it went into the groove.. thats the only way to do this..
thanks for all the help..
can you recommend door rubber ?? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 457 | I'm NOT looking forward to replacing my windshield glass and rubber, but one day... Thanks for the tips!
1940 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup "KC" A day without sunshine is like, well, ..... dark! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 16 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2012 Posts: 16 | Ok I am putting my 1/2 ton Kc truck together I have no Idea what I am missing? Rubber, framing, is there a good source for diagrams? Showing the parts needed? I have the frame where the windsheild goes but do not know what rubber I need? I asssume there is aseal around the glass then one around the cab? then the back glass? I have aframe looks like it goes inside with screw holes. Is this the cast frame the 40s catalogue is asking about? I am so close to getting this ole girl on the road! | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | Larry...rubber parts you need as follows: windshield perimeter gasket ( mounts in Tee slot of windshield frame, snd rests against the body. No gasket on body. Divider bar between windshield halves ( I recommend buying the piece complete with stainless cover installed to save yourself grief ), rear window rubber gasket ( steel ring goes inside / chrome ring goes outside. Screws mount from inside to outside / pinch rubber gasket & glass. Door gaskets ( windlace ) runs up front nad rear jambs, and across top, sill gaskets ( rocker/door bottom ). Best source for rubber parts = Steeles Rubber | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 122 | Ditto the Steele replacement gasket!! I purchased a complete windshield assembly from Bowtie Bits and the gasket they supplied was the same as the one sold by Carter. I labored to get it to seat properly in the channel and I bugger'd up my frame's fresh paint in the process. When I finished, it leaked terribly. So, I ordered a Steele gasket and essentially started over.
OMG! The Steele gasket was soft as a roll of baby fat and with a little silicone lube it popped right into the groove all the way around. No hits, no runs, no errors! The seating edge was a little thinner too, so it conformed readily to the face of the cab. Poured a pail of water over the cab and noted no leaks, only a couple lagging drips a few minutes later.
I also discovered my new frame was 1/4 inch taller than my original causing the gasket to roll out on the bottom. I removed the right-side hinge and used a rat file to elongate the holes upward. This allowed me to adjust my windshield up to eliminate the rub.
As I work around the rest of the cab, I will purchase ALL my rubber products from Steele. Superior quality, indeed! | | |
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