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Joined: Aug 2011
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K
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I recently took my 1951 Suburban on a 300 mile trip to the beach and back. On the way down, the generator started making a lot of noise. I've kept up with the lubrication over the years but have never overhauled it.

I had tools with me and pulled it out so I could check it over.

Here is my "work bench":

My workbench
Tools and "tool box"
Random beach picture with ballast stones from a shipwreck.

As it turns out, the rear bushing was totally shot, the front bearing was suspect and the brushes were in serious need of replacement. The cause of this mayhem was that the small plate pressed into the oil reservoir for the bushing had come loose, no doubt many years ago, and the bushing received no lubrication.

Here is a picture of the rear frame of the generator with the oil reservoir, plate and bushing. There is a wick that goes from the resovoir to the bushing.

Generator end frame.

I was able to purchase a new bushing and brushes from a local CarQuest and make a repair that got me back to Raleigh. The bushing was close to right but slightly over sized, and it did not have the hole in the right place so that I could reinsert the lubricating wick. I was also unable to get the front nut off the pulley with the tools I had, so I could not replace the front bearing.

After I returned to Raleigh, I decided to tear down the generator again, replace all the bad parts and document the process as I went along. I contacted Kenneth at Classic Generator who sent me a rebuild kit and also gave me some great tips about the rebuild process. He is a great guy, and I highly recommend his products.

Anyway, on with the show. Here is a picture of the generator. It is a pretty run of the mill Delco Remy. This particular one came with my 235 engine, which was from a 1953 Chevy. This was the first year without the removable commutator band.

Before picture

First this was to remove the pulley nut. Easy to do with an impact wrench. Hard to do otherwise.

Removing pulley nut.

After removing the pulley nut, the pulley can be removed by holding the generator up in the air by the pulley, and tapping on the end of the shaft with a brass hammer. After removing the pulley, remove the shaft key by tapping one end of it down until the other end comes up enough to pry it out.

Then remove the two long bolts that connect the two end frames together. They run from the rear frame that has the bushing and screw into the front frame that has the pulley. At this point the whole generator will come apart, and you will have the two end frames, the armature and the body of the generator on your bench.

End of rear frame with two bolts


And because I'm a dummy, I didn't take a picture of the whole thing apart. But here is a schematic as provided by Classic Generator.

Parts Schematic.

I did not remove the field coils and some other little bits, but I did clean the whole thing up.

First task was to get the bushing out of the end frame. The bushing is in a blind hole, and if you have a blind hole bushing puller, you can get it out easy-peasy. Not having one of those, I ran a tap into the bushing, and then used a bolt a nut to draw it out, and then used a wrench sliding up the bolt and hitting the head as a "slap" hammer.

Running tap into bushing.
Pulling bushing using bolt and nut.

Next task was to cut a slot in the bushing so that the wick from the oil gallery would lubricate the shaft. The wick hole is angled in the bore, so I measured the angle and marked it on the bushing. Then I used a rat tail file to cut the slot.

Marking bushing.
Filing groove in bushing
Finished groove.

Then I pressed the bushing in and ran the wick up from the oil gallery through the groove. I have an old lab press, but you really could just tap it in with a hammer.

Pressing in bushing.
New wick in place.

Next I pressed the cover into the oil gallery. Since it had come apart before. I put a little JB Weld on it.

Next step was to clean up the commutator on the armature. It was pretty grooved and rough. I mounted in the vice and cleaned it up with emery cloth. Started with 220 and finished with 400.

Cleaning up commutator
Ready to go!

Next I dissembled the front end frame and removed the old bearing and felt retainer and felt. The new bearing is a sealed bearing, and hopefully will need no lubrication. I guess because it was a sealed bearing there was no gasket in the kit to go between the bearing retainer and the frame, but I cut one anyway.

New bearing, gasket and retainer in frame.

After installing the bearing, I put the armature through the frame, installed the spacer and shaft key, and put the pulley on.

Armature/frame/pulley assembly.

Next step is to install the new brushes and terminals in the body,and then set the body over the armature. The brushes will lock all the way back, so that they are held open as you put the body on. You can then release them by holding the spring arm back. I put a little grease on the shaft in preparation for the back frame/bushing.

New brushes.

Final assembly step was to put the rear frame back on with the two long bolts.
Here is the finished generator. I also took the opportunity to paint the body.

Completed generator.

Don't forget to polarize the generator after you put it back in the truck!

Polarizing generator at the regulator.
Yours truly.

OK, well that's about it.

Enjoy.

Kurt













Joined: Jun 2003
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J
'Bolter
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J Offline
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Nice work.


"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."

1957 GMC 150
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Good story, and excellent pictures! However- - - -you've gone to a lot more effort than necessary. The bushing is made of a sintered bronze material called "oilite", and it's totally unnecessary to cut a slot in the bushing. The oil penetrates right through the bushing. Cutting the slot will cause the oil from the lubricator to flood the bushing and contaminate the brush area with oil, resulting in rapid brush failure and/or intermittent charging due to oil contamination of the commutator.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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W
back yard wrench turner
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Jerry,
Looking at the exploded diagram, I see a slot cut into the bushing. I think it's done correctly.


Wayne
1938 1-Ton Farm Truck
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K
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Jerry,

Thanks for the comment.

However, I did put the bushing back the way it was originally designed from the factory. Because of the way the wick gallery is drilled, there is no way to get the wick up to the bushing unless the slot is cut. The oil is in the gallery below and completely separated from the bushing except for the wick.

Kenneth from classic generator even offered to cut the slot for me.

That being said, I'll keep an eye on it.

Kurt

Joined: Feb 2004
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H
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I guess the several hundred of them I've rebuilt were all done wrong, then.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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K
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May be there is more than one correct way to do it?

Kurt

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H
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Oilite is a self-lubricating material, with oil impregnated into the bushing material. It has been the preferred type of replacement rear generator bushing since the mid-1950's at least. Just getting the oiler wick close to the bushing is sufficient to allow for seepage through the bushing if any extra lube is needed. It's possible the earlier solid bronze bushings might have needed the slot, but I can't remember ever cutting one in a replacement bushing since I started rebuilding generators in the late 1950's.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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F
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
I guess the several hundred of them I've rebuilt were all done wrong, then.
Jerry
well, at least "different" .... Kurt did as shown in the parts diagram and as suggested by the parts supplier

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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Noted, Red- - - -along the same line, front ball bearings used to need oiling, but we started replacing them with permanently-lubed sealed bearings in the 1960's, about the same time we switched to oilite bushings. Unless someone is involved in the day-to-day operation of a rebuilding facility, those improvements in parts and procedures aren't obvious. Nowadays, the front and rear oiler points are just interesting antiques, not essential parts of a preventive maintenance program.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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M
'Bolter
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Thanks for the write up Kurt. I plan to do the same thing for a spare 6V generator I have.


Allan
-----
1951 GMC 1/2-ton
Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window
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Allan,

Anytime. Let me know how it comes out.

Kurt

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M
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Wow, nice write-up!

What's yer address Kurt? I'll send mine down! Hahaha. I need to do this very job on my Delco. Right now I have a FoMoCo on the bus.

Thanks for posting. Maybe this could get turned into a Tech-Tip?


Christopher
1950 1-Ton
"Rochester"
In the Gallery
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1949 GMC Panel Truck
1926 Model TT Truck
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Mr. Lang, you have an open invitation to drive that bus down and enjoy the Carolina Sky anytime.

We'll rebuild your genny and toss the FoMoCo one back on the spare parts pile.


Kurt

Joined: Jun 2008
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S
'Bolter
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Excellent article Kurt. Thanks for taking the pics and the time to put the process in writing for all of us. Could you talk to the powers-to-be and ask that they put this in the Tech Tips??



Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
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Spotbiltxo.

Thanks for the kind words. I will do that once I noodle out who the-powers-that-be are.

Kurt


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