The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop POR 15 Frame Resto

Have any of you guys had any experience with the POR15 rust preventive paint? It seems like a good way to good to save some $ by not having to blast the frame. I have heard a lot of good stuff about this. Please post any experiences/input!

POR15 is not UV protected so if it's exposed to sunlight it will turn a chalky white over time.

Yes I know that about the UV qualities, however, being the frame is painted with this, it will not be exposed to direct sunlight, so it should be fine. I'm just wondering if anyone has painted this directly over the rust, and how it holds up after a few years, and how it goes goes on the frame (sprays/rolls out smooth, fills in gaps, thick, etc.?)

It sprays nice and you don't need to thin it at all. I've never rolled it out but have brushed it and it looks good. It does cover good.

Don't spray it unless you have a fresh air respirator! You could lose your life.

You beat me to it Jomichael......

I would add that it brushes on well,any brushmarks soon flow out to leave a smooth glossy surface.(Just make sure you wear gloves!)
I would imagine it will also be a thicker coating than if it was sprayed.

Apache 9, I simply removed as much of the surface rust(thankfully mine wasn't too bad) used the Metal Ready,and set to it with a brush.

Shiny chassis.

That chassis looks awesome, jockbolter50. I am stoked to get started. Thanks for all the help guys!

Apache9, I did mine with POR15 but I did blast mine. I love the stuff. It brushes/flows very well and does give you some "body" to fill up any rust pits.

FYI-- rather than open and expose the to air I just drill a 1/4" hole in the middle of the can and pour out small amounts at a time. I stick Duct tape over the hole. I have been using out of a can now for over a year, as I do small stuff, and it has not dried out any yet. If you pour out to much at a time it will actually start skimming on you before you use up what you pour out. So, a little trial and error will tell you what you need to do. I also buy me up several disposeable cheap bushes and if one gets to stiff I just toss it in the trash can and use another.

As Jock says, wear gloves....and the worst clothes you have. You'll find out why It may help to keep a small fan running to get rid of the fumes and give you fresh air. This stuff will coat your lungs if your not careful.
Let us know how you like it... and you can see my chassis on my photobucket.

EDIT:...sometimes a bristle from the cheap brushes will come out and stick to the chassis. I don't even bother with them most of the time. In the end it just doesn't bother me...and who will see it!!!!

I used a respirator with charcoal canister when brushing and a fresh air respirator when spraying + a fan and still felt like I was poisoned for a few days afterwards.

Good stuff but has some very bad chemicals in it.

I also had really good results brushing POR-15. It flattens out really well to a high gloss. I had my frame up on saw horses with a drop cloth under it. I just glopped into all the frame joints and let it wick into the joints and let the excess drip off. Then go back and brush the rest and brush the drips.

I read somewhere that the chalkiness that appears when exposed to UV is only an appearance problem and does not alter the durability of the POR-15. If anyone knows differently, please correct me.

The manufacturer of POR makes a UV resistant top coat for those requiring show quality. It's applied directly over the POR-15. I think it must be applied very soon after the POR-15.

If you get it on your skin, it takes about 2 weeks to fade. I had a few dots on my face for a while.

Dave Evans
52_3100

Sounds good guys. I am not too concerned with the UV issues, as the frame and components will not be directly in the sunlight, and therefore should not be affected. I'm just going to use the POR15 and not topcoat it.

I've said before,if the chassis is exposed to direct sunlight....you're not in a good place........
"Keep the shiny side up!"

I'm interested in this, as I was planning to use rustoleum rattle cans on my frame.
I may have missed it somewhere...
How much Por15 would I need to purchase for my '59 3200 frame?
Jerry

Jerry,
I think that I used a little less than 2 quarts on my '52.

Dave Evans
52_3100

Thanks Dave!

Jerry.... buy it by the quart and depending on size of chassis I usually get two coats out of a quart...... I did a chassis once and the rattle cans, primer and paint, was more than a quart of POR15, which a quart is going for $54, including tax here in my town.

I use POR all the time. I usually spray mine and I reduce it with POR solvent. It sprays out really nice. I also reccommend top coating it with POR chassis coat. It is a nice semi gloss black similar to factory finish and is UV safe. This stuff dries with the water out of the air so depending on where you live and the humidity affects the way I dries. If you are in a dry climate or inside a heated shop I would wet the floor down after you are done painting and I will speed up the drying. Do wear gloves or you will wear POR for a couple weeks.

Jerry, I initially bought a quart,which was enough to do the whole underside of my cab and about a third of my chassis.
It's very high in solids(about 80%) and covers really well.

After wrestling (virtually destroying) the lid on the quart tin,the dang thing was near impossible to re-open once the POR had cured!
I opted for this six-pack and that was enough to finish my chassis and paint inside of the cab (floor,firewall and roof).

It's much easier to work with in the smaller tins,although it is slightly dearer to buy this way.
I just need to get some more to finish the underside of my fenders.

I do like Alvin and buy it by the quart. And what I do if I have some left in the can is take some plastic and put it between the lid and can then use a rubber mallet to seal the lid. That way the por15 won't dry the lid to the can. Then I put the can in a large zip lock bag. I have tried some differnt stuff like Zero rust and such. But por 15 is the best I have found.

...again, I've got a can I've been opening and re-using for over a year. In fact, I just opened it yesterday and did some touch up on some stuff I missed.

I've NEVER opened the lid. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the center of the lid. I flip the can over and kind of squeeze it to get what I want. When I get enough out I quit squeezing the can and when it gulps for air I flip it up right. THEN stick the duct tape back over it.... I do this until I'm finished what I'm doing then put on a new piece, rub it down good and then shake it once and put it on the shelf. It does stay fresh.

Try it....you'll like it!! ..... if your impatient you can drill a 3/8" hole in it. Note, since I don't take the lid off to stir it I just pick it up and shake it a little every now and then when I go by it or plan to use it in a few minutes.