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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | It appears I may be able to access the inside of the rear corner of my '54 Suburban if I remove the rear door sill. Any of you guys know if there's enough room to get in there to work dents out?
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | If you are talking about the sheet metal above the cab corners, you won't have much access. It might be easier to access the cab corners, but you will have no more access than you already have by going underneath the suburban. I think the area that you want to access is sealed next to the sill. Rob took a picture of my suburban parts truck that I parted out years ago. It shows this area after I cut the sides off to expose the inside interior wall between the exterior sheetmetal. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | That's what I figured. Thanks George. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | I think your best bet in that kind of an area is going to be one of those units that welds a little tab to the dented area, then uses a slide hammer to pull it back out. At that point, you could probably get in there with a long-handle dolly. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 |
George,
I cannot find that revealing photo (photos?) of a Suburban's inner side structure. Can you find it/them?
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 | Tim if I remember ,
Those photos were part of Metalman,s thread in the metal shop on Rob English,s site.
regards
steve sr. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I hope no no minds these being posted (let me know and I will remove them): 1947-1955 Suburban rear bodies exposed The first three are Rob English's photos of GMONIZ's suburban? The last two are K10s Suburban which has some masterful metal work done by Metal Man, Ray Stanley. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 | Nice pics! Thanks for posting!! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 5 | George's idea is very nice!!!
agree with you | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | A stud gun is what he is talking about. They work great for pulling dents, without the old hole/screw method with the slide-hammer. | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 321 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2007 Posts: 321 | Stud guns are absolutely fantastic. You can almost pull a low spot to the point where no filler is required. They don't work so well on compound corners because of the strength of the metal with the dome shape, but adding a few relief cuts and welding them afterwards helps. Here is a shot of a few studs in my model a coupe decklid that I am working on now. You attach the slide hammer to the stud and start banging. I have a friend who has one and I borrow his. It's a stinger stud gun and the kit is around 350 bucks if I recall. If you're planning on continuing to restore cars, it's probably worth the investment. The other option is to cut the spot out and weld in a new patch. http://gallery.mac.com/patrick.plummer#100754/IMG_3875&bgcolor=black | | |
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