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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,282 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 | 3 weeks ago i installed custom brake lines just to the front (no rear brakes set up)that i double flared myself. A week later they held up fine with no leaks.I checked back 2 weeks after that and they were completely drained. I felt around and from what i can tell they are leaking from behind the bolt as if it was leaking past the flare and back behind the bolt.Did i flare them wrong? or is it possible i just didn't tighten them well enough or over tightened them? If i screwed up the flare will i have to go back and redo the flares? | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I tried some double flares on my lines as well but finally gave up. I practiced doing several and thought they looked pretty good but decided not to "chance them".
Unless you have one of those nice hydralic flare tools its fairly hard for me to do one that I trust using the "mechanical" ones. I know several here have mentioned sucessfully doing them but not me! You could try tighten the pee out of them but it may make things worst and then you probably would never trust them.
I ended up buying new lines of different lengths and worked it out to where I didn't have to do any flaring.
That said I have a friend in the car club that has the nice hydralic one. I bought rolls of line for my gas and tranny lines and he came by and flared all of them in about an hour. The hydralic ones are pricey so I'd ask around. Maybe someone would do you a favor for a couple dollars..... just don't play roulette with your brake job. Good luck. | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | If you take the line loose look at the flare and see if the line cracked at the crimp, check to see that the flare is square and the nut makes contact all the way around when it gets tightened down. Just a couple things to look at. | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 | Today i tightened them down a little more, and re bled the system. I guess only time will tell if it worked. I think if it didnt i will do what Achipmunk said and try to get someone who knows what they are doing to flare my brakes. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 | are you using the right flare for your fittings there are two diffrent flares 45 and 37. if you put a 45 to a 37 degree fitting it would cause a sizable leak. also if you take your time and set the line in right on the mechanical double flaring tool they come out great. i have never had a problem but its the only way ive ever done them too i quess. MO
MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
| | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | If you put a lot of pressure on the brakes for say 30 seconds or more, you should be able to see if it leaks. | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,696 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,696 | When I install new brake lines, I "tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten" each fitting to help ensure a good seal.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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