The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Roller Bearing Conversion on 57 3100 - Questions

While installing a new roller bearing conversion kit for my 1957 3100, I ran into a couple of "hitches." Honestly, the kit seems perfect, but my truck has been so abused over the years that offering the kit up to it was a little frustrating.

I got the kit from ClassicParts and they shipped it fast (together with the axle vent the SWEET and I needed to complete the rear end rebuild). Here's a snapshot fo the parts as they arrived...note: No instructions...

[IMG]http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/fourbrads/57%20chevy/DSC03126.jpg[/IMG]

Of course, this kit is so simple, you shouldn't need instructions. Right? Never underestimate the ignorance of your
customers, I think, would be a good motto for these companies. But that's just me...

The parts fit the hubs just great. But, question number one: The machined part of the casting in the hubs has slots that allow you to drift out the old bearing races. In my case (and I am hoping all others), the "Ears" created during this machining did not seem centered. The race sits in its machined seat, but the casting ears are longer on one side than the other. I tried to get a photo of it here, but the flash seems to have washed it out a bit:

[IMG]http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/fourbrads/57%20chevy/DSC03142.jpg[/IMG]

Now, would this not mean that the spindle is offset in the hub? Assuming the machining was supposed to center in the casting. When I drive it, is it going to "lope" up and down? The cylindrical portion of the hubs seems to be the
same thickness all around.

Second, and more concerning, the bearing/hub assembly had a very hard time going onto the left spindle (note the lovely overheated blue color - the old bearings were in horrible shape). I think it's because someone looks to have taken a hatchet to the spindle in a effort to take something off, possibly a too tight bearing. I managed to knock the hub assembly onto the spindle with only minor pressure, but will likely try to remove it again because I don't like the fit.

[IMG]http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/fourbrads/57%20chevy/DSC03125.jpg[/IMG]

I don't think the bearing is seated all the way back on the spindle. There seems to be a gap between that shield thingy and the hub assembly that is allowing the shield thingy to flop around. This can't be right...

[IMG]http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/fourbrads/57%20chevy/DSC03137.jpg[/IMG]

So, does the shield thingy get sandwiched and sit stationary, or does it spin? Is it supposed to? If not, what holds it stationary? Here's the shield thingy:

[IMG]http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/fourbrads/57%20chevy/DSC03139.jpg[/IMG]

Last question: Should I fill the hub void between the two bearings with grease? The old one was, but probably from lazy mechanics. Here's a shot of the hub with the inner bearing and seal installed:

[IMG]http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/fourbrads/57%20chevy/DSC03135.jpg[/IMG]

The good news for this project was the right side. It went on and seated itself perfectly. That side took about 15 minutes. Now, I seated the bearings by tightening the castle nut down until I could barely move the hub by hand,

then unscrewed it completly, cranked it down by hand, then backed off to the closest pin hole. Is that correct?

Overall, I think the quality and ease of use for this kit is exceptional. I would have included a simple diagram (so people like me don't scratch their heads so much), but for $119, it was well worth the price.

I also did this conversion and what you have done looks like what I went through. Some one else will come along soon and let you know for sure, but I would be a bit worried about the condition of that spindle. Might not be a biggie but that has been abused. I wouldn't worry about the "off center look" I'd bet that is not a problem. Back in the day we used to pack lots of grease in there, but I think that filling the void might not be needed, just make sure the bearings are greased well. Hope everything works out for you.

First off, the hub. The backside looks to be in great shape in my opinion. The front side doesn't look bad either. As far as the "ears" not being centered, I wouldn't worry about it. The hub was poured as a rough casting and then machined, it's just shows how inaccurate rough casting is. If you are suspicious at all of a problem. I would take it to a maching shop and have it checked for out of round.

The spindle on the other hand is an entirely different issue. The blue area you are seeing, appears to be caused by a torch. I'm guessig that whoever did the hatchet job tried heating the center portion of the bearing up to get it off. Take some emery paper to it and try to smooth it out. You shouldn't have to force it on.

Now, onto the dust shield. The inner wheel bearing should fit tight up against it. The shield shouldn't flop around at all. If it is flopping around, then your bearing isn't seated properly.

Lastly, filling the center with grease. This is just a personal preference. Some guys will say yes, some no. At the shop I used to work at, we would pack the bearing and then istall the hub with the seal and inner bearing installed. We would put a glob of grease inside the hub, but not fill it, before we installed the outer bearing.

Thanks, whitedog.

I was going to go with the emory cloth idea, just to knock down the ridges from the hack job. We'll see if I can get the newly installed bearings off first!

Appreciate the info. So, do you suppose my spindle is okay to run with then?

Jim

I'd also use some emery cloth on the spindle. You want the bearing to slide on and off easily. It also needs to go all the way on without having to tap it on.

Looks like the spindle in photo five has been center punched in the past to raise the surface to make a loose inner wheel bearing "fit" the spindle. You might need to go easy with the Emery cloth on that one when you're fitting the new taper rollers.

When I fitted the roller bearing conversion from Chevy Duty it didn't come with the dust shields you have, my truck's done a fair few thousand miles with just the grease seals in place - I do have disc brakes on mine though, most of the brake dust probably just gets thrown outwards.

Thanks, Stuart.

The seals were the one thing that gave me zero trouble on this kit (though I admit the rest of the "trouble" was minor). Seemed to fit well. Not so sure about the shield they sit next to...hoping that thing won't eat the seals by wearing on them.

That's why I want to get it right the first time.

Appreciate the help.

Here is my video I made on my swap. Watch it and see if it helps you any.

GrandpasTruck,

I DID watch your video...you were the inspiration I needed to tackle this project in the first place. So, a belated "thank you!"

Out of curiosity, did you fill the hub void with grease or just pack the bearings as you showed in the video?

Fourbrads,

No I did not fill it. Mine was filled as well when I removed the hub. I just packed the bearings and am running them like that. So far so good.

Jim

Torque the spindle nuts to 33 ft/lbs...

Got it. Thanks.

Here, by the way, is one of the reasons it was time to replace the wheel bearings...

[IMG]http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/fourbrads/57%20chevy/DSC02950.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks to all who replied.