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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,297 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 | hey guys really thinking about putting my brake lines inside of a boxed frame with connectors coming out just by each wheel and the master cyclinder. then running a nice braided line to each component. what do you think.
MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
| | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 | will you be able to replace the lines should that be necessary in the future? if so i would think that would be slick... | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | It would certainly make a clean frame, but how do you keep the main lines from rattling around inside the box and getting abrased?
Drew
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 | i was going to use the same clips that you would use normally. also thought i would use stainless steel for longevity. if and when one goes down i would just run a replacemant on the outside of the boxing.
MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 | forgot to add that i would do this before and during the boxing process.
MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
| | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | ...I'd suggest buying a roll of the tubing so there is no connections inside the boxed frame and get someone that has a nice double flare tool to flare the ends for you.
Yee, you can put clips on the chassis that reach inside the frame and hold the line up....especially to keep it off the bottom of the frame. I'm not sure what those little zip tie lo0king things are called. They go inside the hold, around the line and back out and you pull it tight.
I just replaced the line on my step son's Dodge pickup. 1999 or 2000 I think, and the line was inside the chassis. The line was a one piece 128" long!!
It should last more than a life time so do it if thats what you want. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 | did some more thinking and i think i would put some access holes in strategic locations then have a flush mount plate to screw on over the access hole. that way the frame is still clean and smooth but have access to lines and fittings when i need too. this would also be benificial for running the wiring in the boxed channel also. what do you think? mo
Last edited by mo; 03/07/2012 10:54 PM.
MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
| | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 59 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 59 | I agree Mo. I'm in the process of boxing the frame of my 1940 truck. I'll use a nice hole saw and make holes down the sides for wires and tubing to enter and exit. That way i have access to the lines if needed. I remember reading somewhere that the holes don't take any of the strength away from the boxing. I could be wrong tho LOL
Barry | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | I have probably built a dozen or more boxed frames during my dirt track racing days, and I've come up with some decidedly biased opinions in the process. There's one basic principle when building a dirt car- - - -make it three times as strong as you think it needs to be, and don't be too surprised when it breaks! At the same time, weight is the mortal enemy of the "Go fast- - -turn left" crowd. We built 'em light and strong by cuting a series of football-shaped holes in the boxing sections, and actually had less distortion from crash damage than the ones we left fully boxed. If you use a template and a plasma cutter to make the holes, it looks pretty good, too. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 252 | I ran my wiring and brake lines down the left rail and fuel line down the right rail. I notched out access points at the top and bottom of the box for cab mounts and a means to secure wiring and lines. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 | Gman do you have any pics of your boxing and notching
MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
| | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 252 | If you click on the build link picture 52 shows the cab but no engine. You can see the notches on the right rail just pass a access plate that I used on each side for the through fittings for brake and fuel lines. | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | I like the idea of running the tubes inside the frame. On an episode of "Trucks!" on Spike TV, they boxed a Ford Ranger frame and punched holes in the plates. I would think something like that would work pretty well. It wouldn't compromise strength, it would lose some weight, and it would provide some access. | | |
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