The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 2 sp rear end & 261 motor

I was at the local scrap yard today looking for a 2 sp rear and found a 6400 chevy headed to the shredder. Complete truck with a old feeder box in great shape. Makes me sick! Anyway, the rear end had a raised DTA CO in a diamond shape and stamped 5800 M 429 2 Y. As near as I can tell this is the rear I need for my 53 COE because the original is a single speed. Correct? After I looked at the rear end I checked out the cab (normal wear) but noticed a key in the ignition. Pop the hood and looking back at me is a new blue wonderful engine (I almost messed myself). I climbed on board and started to get a s/n and a taped up wire arced on the starter. What pops into my head??? Battery & Key!!!! Around the front I went and into the cab, key on, choke out, pump the pedal and off she went, purring like a cat. The engine number is F54N. 261??? I hunted down the yard boss and convinced him to let part out what I want before he shreds her. They won't sell the truck because of no title. Anyway I have Friday (playing sick) and half a day Saturday to get glass, engine, rear end with all the vacuum, bumper and whatever else I can find. My only real concern is the rear, Will it work and if I know everything I need to remove. Any ideas and comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Yes, the F54N is a 1954 261 made in Flint, MI and originally installed in a 1954 6000 series (as the HD Jobmaster optional engine).

Someone else will have to help you with the rear axle serial number 5800 M 429 2 Y
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/54057.htm

What year truck body is this (is there an ID plate, with the vehicle serial number, in the driver's door jamb)?

Tim, I'm not sure of the year the door jamb tag was all faded out and the only stamped info was 5 UWL 1192. Thanks for the help AGAIN with the motor info. I was hoping you were out there.

Don't forget to get the speedometer 2-speed gear adaptor, on the later trucks it's screwed to the back of the speedometer, I'm not sure where it is on the AD trucks (it keeps the speedometer calibrated when the rear switches form hi to low).

Other items worth saving...

Front brake drums
Spare tire carrier
Transmission
PTO
Seat
Heater

Great score, have fun!

Mike B

Thanks Mike B. I never would have thought about the speedo until it was to late!

Hey! another GREAT find!! If the truck is complete,(which it sounds like it is,) I,personally ,would go for the 2-speed rear. Just don't forget the 2-speed switch,which may be located on or near the transmission. Be sure to check the vacuum-lines (the rubber bendix,especially.) My 2-speed was dis-connected by a p.o., and mud wasps had both steel lines along the frame-rails Full of dirt! I pitched the steel lines,and I am currently using 1/2-inch (O.D.), plastic ag. tubing, which is a cheap and easy fix (no bending,cutting,flaring,jockeying and /or cussing the steel lines. Most importantly,though, it requires fittings on just the vacuum pancake (rear-end),and on the 2-speed switch. I moved my switch to the firewall, to make it easier to maintain. Keep us posted on your progress! Good-Luck!! Sincerely: Bill Hickey

see if they will sell it complete minus the cab....that's the only part that needs a title. Strip out the dash, take the cab off and take the rest home with you. Faster easier and you will have everything you need plus some great extras.

Tad

Here's some pics of the donor truck and motor. Thanks for the ideas and advice!

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii601/knuckleskinner/DSCN3508.jpg

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii601/knuckleskinner/DSCN3512.jpg

I know rules are rules, but it's just a darn shame that you can't just buy the whole truck! How many guys on here would kill to find one that nice?

See if the guy will sell it to you in two pieces. Drop the drive shaft and cut the frame behind the cab. He can then sell you the front half today and sell the back half tomorrow to one of your buddy's, that way he won't get in trouble for selling a complete vehicle...just a thought.

If you pay a little more than scrap he makes out on the deal also...this truck is worth the fight!

Mike B

Well guys after 7 hrs in the scrap yard by myself I am ready for bed! I salvage everything I could except for the rear end that they will take out on Monday. I got the motor, radiator ,vacuum system for axle, trans & pto, windshield, bumper, heater & core, seat, all interior knobs, switches and handles and running boards. The drive shaft was bend from the forklift. The rear tires are 8.25 x 20 one piece rims. I believe that this size tire is fairly expensive and hard to come by (right or wrong?). Can you run 7.5 x 20 on this rim? Is it the way to go being a one piece rim? Thanks!

I've never seen 20" tires on 1-piece rims. Are you sure they're not the Firestone "widow makers" with about a 2" wide steel band near the center of the wheel just outside of the center plate? It would be virtually impossible to get a 20" tube type tire on a single piece rim.
Jerry

I looked at the rears when I was cleaning up my tools and noticed that they where not the same as the six I have on my Coe (which are the two piece split in the middle as you described). I went to the front and they were the 7.5 x 20 split in the middle also. I looked at the rear again and could not see where they were split. I will bring them home Monday on the axle and get a closer look. I will post a pic. Maybe I lost my mind (the wife thinks I have).

Definitely worth getting the whole thing if you can, I'm in Longmont, let you know if I can help.

If the fenders and cab and other sheet metal is good what's the deal there? Or did you get those already?

Well guys I hope I have made my last trip this morning to the scrap yard (for a while anyway). I have everything except the frame, body and front axle. I guess I'll trade off what I don't need. The best news is the yard owner said he had changed his mind and was going to put the body in the u-pull-it yard. Hopefully someone can use it.