The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline paul's 58 3/4 ton

i'd like to change the ring & pinion. i need to know what years will interchange. my truck is original with ten bolt rear end. i'd really like to get the part numbers of these gears. thanks, ptl (1958 chev. 3/4 ton dually 17.5 inch wheels, 235 motor, granny 4speed)

i've been lookin around in the driveline section and got a good education on the 3/4 ton rear end. i'm thinkin i should just go to newer whole assembly. but i don't know what is the best match? i did'nt want to change the look of the truck to much. thanks, ptl

Your best bet is to find a GM 14 bolt full float rearend from a Cab/Chassis or box van. You'll want to look for one that has a 63" Wheel mounting surface. There's been several guys use the 67" 14 bolt without clearance issues. It just moves your wheels really far out and super close to the fenders. Dodge vans with the Dana 60 are something you can look for, but extremely hard to find. Most likely, you'll find a Semi-float 9.25" Chrysler axle. Ford trucks with the Sterling axle, and Ford vans with the Sterling axle are also possibilities. Any late model rearend, is going to require some fabrication work, so ultimately it's up to you on what you want to do.

I have a 67" 14 bolt that I'm going to use dually hubs on. If you want to use oem style drum brakes, it creates clearance issues. Since I'm going to disc brakes, it's not a big deal.

Check out my pics at; www.photobucket.com/whitedog76pics

For some good 14 bolt information go to; www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html

http://www.advanceadapters.com/categories/complete-units/91/

This one goes between bellhousing and tranmission.

PTL - I did the aforementioned Dana 60 out of an '87 Dodge 2500 pickup for my '59 Apache 3600 (basically the same truck as yours). 3:55 gears, limited slip, as close to bolt in as you can get. The rear is about 2 1/2" wider, and the wheels clear with no problem...the stance actually looks a little more badass now . The most involved task was widening the spring perches, which I easily accomplished in about 2 hours with my 120V mig welder, some scrap steel and a grinder. I bought new U bolts, which you should do anyway. A spring shop bent them up for I think $25, including the bolts. I needed an adaptor for the brake line (1/4 to 3/16, it cost $1), and I had to have the drive shaft shortened 1 1/2", which cost $125. Lastly, I also had to get a new yoke for the U joint, which was about $35 from www.actionmachine.com.

If you have all the parts in hand, and the rear end it painted, prepped, and ready to go (the most time consuming part of the job), it should take you 2-3 hours at the most.

WELL WORTH IT!!! The truck is actually now drivable on the highway...it'll hold 70 all day long without breaking a sweat.

Good luck.

Chris

Once you get the rear end prepped, it's a pretty easy job.

Barsteel- this really sounds like the way to go. i want to keep her as close to original as possible.crusing at 70 is cool. does your apache have duals & 17.5 wheels, 235, w/granny tranny?