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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | Another question from a newbie... I want to change out my old brake lines. I'm looking at a roll of copper-nickle alloy. Can someone tell me what the original brake line OD should be and what the brake line nuts should be?
Thanks again!
Glen | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 787 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 787 | use steel lines. copper is a no-no ron | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | I agree copper is a no-no. But copper-nickel seems to be quickly replacing steel. (equal strength, easier to work with and doesn't rust). It is often marketed under Cunifer. It is DOT approved. | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Inline Tube will have what you need.
| | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 | You can buy NiCopp by American Grease Stick (AGS) online here: Advance Auto Parts This is the best price I've found and I believe this is made in USA. I've used a couple of rolls of 1/4" on my '54 2-ton project and have more ready to use on a '56 GMC 1-ton. It's easy to flare and easier to bend and install than steel.
Last edited by OlBlue; 02/29/2012 4:40 PM.
'38 Chevy 1-1/2 ton '49 Chevy 1/2 ton '54 Chevy 6400 2 ton '55.2 GMC 3/4 ton '56 GMC 1-ton
No Room Left in Shop
| | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | Thanks guys!
So I can assume that the lines are indeed 1/4".
Glen | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Size of the brake lines depend on the year, Series, Make, Model and wheel cylinders of your truck. Most common brake line sizes are 1/8", 3/16" & 1/4", along with the corresponding double-flare nuts, which are matched to the wheel cylinder female brake line opening sizes.
Last edited by 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks; 02/29/2012 7:13 PM.
| | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 | What year/model truck are you working on?
Almost everything before about 1960 was 1/4" lines. After that you start to see some 3/16" appear and with the advent of disk brakes, lots of 3/16" was used with special sized nuts on the master cylinder.
'38 Chevy 1-1/2 ton '49 Chevy 1/2 ton '54 Chevy 6400 2 ton '55.2 GMC 3/4 ton '56 GMC 1-ton
No Room Left in Shop
| | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 | @OlBlue, That's a real good tip on the copper/nickle line at Advance Auto Parts! Thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | Hey guys:
I let this thread go (apparently for longer than I thought!) as I had other things to deal with. Now I'm back to worrying about my lines. It looks like the line coming out of the master (dual master, ' cause I have a hydraulic clutch) is 1/4" but I can see the rear line along the axle housing looks like 3/16". The manual mentions 1/4", 3/8" and 5/16". Anyone know which line is supposed to be what diameter on a '62 C10?
Thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,608 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,608 | Glen,
Noticed this topic languishing, so I will take a stab at trying to answer your question. To qualify my answer, I do not and have not owned a truck of your particular model.
I have found that brake line diameters are much like the water supply lines in a house. The trunk lines (primary)are often larger in diameter than the wheel cylinder lines (secondary).
Do the lines on the truck appear to be original? If so, just match the diameters. The female inverted flare ID on the wheel cylinders will often limit your possibility of line diameters that could physically fit.
Good luck.
Last edited by Paul_WNC; 10/07/2015 5:51 PM.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | Thanks for this Paul. You confirmed what I think I'm going to have to do. Unfortunately, I'm not convinced the lines are original, but they do work, so I guess if I replace the same diameter I'm seeing, it should work.
Thanks again!
Glen | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 | Call inline tube and ask the tech what the dimensions are. They are very typical. The lines from the rear axle junction block to the rear cylinders are of smaller diameter then all of the other lines. Last cylinders in the loop. Not real sure wx it is 1/4 for the rears and 5/16 for all others. | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 73 | So just FYI for anyone reading this...
From the Master (including right and left front) to the rear rubber hose connection is 1/4 " and from there at the hose connection to right and left slaves is 3/16".
| | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,715 | Thanks for the feedback. I will update my recall. | | |
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