The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop where do i hook my cherry picker up to my 235?

Hi Guys,

Can anyone tell me the best way to hook my cherry picker chain up to my 235? there's no tranny...just the engine. I can't seem to find a good way to do it and the last time i did i dented my valve cover. Ugh. I know this is the place to go to find the best way to hook it up! I'm trying to get it off the floor on on my engine stand. thanks in advance! -brian

Will you have the transmission connected to the engine, or will you only be pulling the engine?

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0621.html

What year truck?

Sorry, the engine is a 1960 235 c.i. that i'm going to be putting in my 1950 chevy 1/2 ton...so it's not currently in the truck. For right now...i'm just trying to get the engine up off the floor and onto an engine stand. there's no tranny hooked to it...it's just the engine. I can't seem to find a good place to hook my chain onto the engine so it's somewhat balanced and so i can lift it w/out damaging any parts. I guess i'm just used to chevy small blocks where i can use a lifting plate or factory lifting tabs on the intake. thanks again. -brian

The last one I picked up, I used the tie down straps from my car hauler. One between the balancer and the timing cover, and the other between the flywheel hub and pan.

regards,
Leon

Best way is to take the rocker assembly. off the engine, take two head bolts out one near the front and one near the back ,take one to the hardware store and buy two eye bolts the same size and alittle longer screw them in where the head bolts were and out she comes . It's safe and you can keep the eye bolts for the next build.

I got mine from ACE at 8.00 bucks each and they're good for 2000 lbs lifting.Pulled three engines and no problems.


Pete

I've done a few lifts exactly that way with no problems. The only thing I'll add is that I use the next closest cylinder head bolts, not the end ones, as I've heard it's possible to crack the head using the end holes. Might be a wives tale, but I didn't want to take a chance.

Don't try to use head bolts with a piece of chain under them- - - -you'll be lifting on just a few threads, and it's possible to rip them out of the block. Remove a head bolt, take it to the hardware store, and buy a couple of 1/2"-13 bolts about an inch longer than the head bolt, and a couple of 1/2" flat washers. Use these bolts and washers to attach a chain to the engine on the line of head bolts between the manifold and the valve cover, using either the first or second hole from each end. Simple, safe, and no damage.
Jerry

taking the head bolts out to use those holes is fine and dandy when removing an engine to rebuild. but not to sharp of an idea on a engine you plan on running without putting in a new head gasket afterward.

Why?

Jerry

Jerry,Point taken on my head bolt comment. Meant to say use the bolt "holes". I'm age restricted.

This is the rig I use. The two bolts with spacers (1/2-inch sockets) go in two of the head bolt holes hearest the manifolds and the other two bolts go in holes on the distributor side. I bought the leveler from Eastwood, but any good leveler should work.

http://s858.photobucket.com/albums/ab147/jdaniel171/?action=view&current=P1010151-1.jpg

Joe D.

why would you take a torque specific bolt out to lower your engine in. i would say you run the chance of causing a premature leak in the head gasket. if you use an exhaust or intake bolt location before you install then that would be fine. i would never remove a bolt that is that critical just to install an engine. an acessory bolt maybe but not a head bolt. when i pulled my 216 i just put the hook in the radiator outlet on the waterpump then i bolted the other end of the chain around the intake. i chanced breaking something but i planned on running that engine again without pulling the head. just my two sense. mo

I used the bolt hole in the front of the head and very rear manifold bolt hole worked for me.



Tim

The shop manual shows a lifting bar connected to two lifting rings in place of head bolts.

Joe D.

Gents,
I am still at a loss. I have picked up my engine to pull it out truck and an other time to set it in a makeshift engine create. I placed one of the chains on the front side of the engine where the bolt is at and the other where the last bolt for the intake/exhaust manifold.

This is fine for a quick pick up and drop off but here pretty soon I'm going to have the engine suspended for a while and have it leveled in order to set the side motor mounts. Does anyone have an example picture of the placement of the two lifting rings in place of the head bolts as shown in the shop manual?

Bread

If I want to leave the rocker arms in place, I take the two outer-posts bolts out and replace them with longer bolts and strong washers. Put each bolt through a washer and then through an end of the lifter chains at either end of a load leveler; and, then lift the engine.

I do not know if this is good for the head and/or the head gasket seal. I have done this many times with 235 and 261 engines (with or without transmissions) and have never had a problem.

I used the exact bolt locations in your picture.
I put mine in with the valve cover off.Here is a picture of my 261 on the hoist. 261 on hoist
261 on hoist pic#2
I did use a load leveler that I purchased from harbor freight.
Make sure you use strong bolts and make sure the bolt head can't slip through the chain link.Just get in there and do it,you'll be fine.


Tim

finally i got you guys off the use of head bolt holes to lift engines.

Not all of us!

I guess he never re-torqued a head.

Now, won't you be proud of yourself when somebody loses some fingers when that mickey mouse setup results in an engine falling? The factory engineers chose to use head bolts- - - -where did you get your automotive engineering degree?
Jerry

i will never retorque a head without a new gasket. head gaskets are made to crush to seal them up so no i will never remove a head bolt without a new gasket. that would be like using the old gasket after a rebuild. same with intake gaskets their also a critical gasket that should be torqued. you guys can take them out and retorque them but i will not. i only like to do things once and only once. i won't chance a premature gasket leak over something that can be avoided.

as far as my engineering degree i dont have but i do have an associates degree in automotive and diesel technology from a well know automotive institute(UTI). which i went to on a full ride scholarship from winning a automotive competion when i was 18 years old. ive also been turning wrenches since i was a teen. furthermore i have never had an engine blow up or breakdown after ive rebuilt it. cause i am white glove finicky. i wont even stop for a break in the middle of torquing an engine so i dont miss something. lift your engines your way and i will do it my way. ive still got all my fingers after way more engine pulls and drops than i can count so i quess i know what iam doing.

I don't have all my fingers and I don't know who you got off using head bolts.

The Shop Manuals say to use head bolts. I do not use head bolts but I see no problem in using them on these engines.

And, re-torquing head bolts is not a no-no operation on these old engines. The Shop Manuals tell us to re-torque the head bolts on a warmed-up engine before adjusting the mechanical lifters. I have done that many times and I have never had a bad head gasket.

UTI was the only school I absolutely refused to allow to recruit my students. I realized many years ago they would not get their money's worth by attending there. Other tech schools such as Nashville Auto-Diesel, Lincoln Tech, GM, Ford, and most of the state-sponsored tech schools did a much better job. One of the students where I taught went to UTI, and had an engine deliberately sabotaged by his instructor after they had an argument over a minor difference of opinion. I repaired the damage, after his father drove across several states to retrieve the broken-down vehicle. The lower radiator hose had been sliced about halfway through with a box cutter, and failed at the cut spot. Thew engine overheated and broke a connecting rod.
Jerry

Hey Jerry,you saying I mickey moused my engine to my hoist ?

I made sure everything was in order before pushing my lift and engine to the truck.


Tim

No, I was referring to that dingbat reference to hooking a chain into the water pump inlet. It's a flimsy piece of cast iron that can shatter without any warning. That's just inviting a disaster, but some of the folks reading this thread might not know any better.
Jerry

I know i'll get bombarded for this,,but ive done it for many years, and many times.
I slip the hook of the chain-fall,,come along, or cherry picker around the rocker shaft.
It sure as heck isnt going to break,,you have multiple points for different leverage,and theres no worry of breaking off a head or mani bolt.
Like i said,,done it many times, no probs. and it works.

i am done with this conversation, you cant fix stupid.

OK,I understand what you're saying.
Hopefully they report back on how they hooked there engines to the hoist.



Tim

I have picked several engines up the way bowtietim does it. I have left the valve cover on and not hurt it. I use the front right thermostat housing 3/8" bolt and the last 3/8" bolt on the int./exh. manifolds, with them in place. The engine is not perfectly balanced but it is not bad. I also agree with Mo about not taking head bolts from a torqued head. However, I have loosened a head bolt or two on occaision and hever had a failure either, just don't like to do it.

I wanted to follow up on Leon's comment of using the tie down straps from the car hauler....I am going to be picking up my engine from the rebuilder this weekend. I noticed on the Harbor Freight site there are 1 ton web slings that are available. Any thoughts on using these instead of chains slung under the front and back. Not totally secure as if there were a chain bolted to the block but would this be suited for transfering from the pick up to the engine stand. I see the need for the leveler bar as well....
Chevyguy

If you use a sling under the engine, realize that its going to be very top heavy and want to flop over. Make sure your rigging supports the sides of the engine to counteract this.

regards,
Leon

After you lift it with the rocker bar assembly,,,,make sure to lay it over on a couple tires. so it wont move or slide around.
marty