The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop distributor installation

I've read the posts on the subject, but still have a question. I ordered a new distributor for my 235. It came without a mouting plate and vacuum advance of course. My question deals with how to install and which way to rotate. First I pulled the valve cover and watched the flywheel for the "BB" to line up with the pointer on the housing. I also checked to make sure it's on the compression stroke by pulling the spark plug and feeling the forced air push my finger away. So I am SURE we are at TDC on the firing stoke, right ?
I dropped in the distributor, engaging the bottom into the oil pump. the rotor is pointing to the "southwest", so I wire things accordingly, making sure to put plug wired #1 at the rotor, and then following clockwise for number 5,3,6,2,and 4, in that order. I adjust the points to barely open, clamp things down, and try to fire it up. I altered the timing various postions, but she never fired. what am I doing wrong?

Theoreoreticly, it should have fired. Have you checked to make sure you're actually getting spark at the plugs? Perhaps there's an electrical gremlin somewhere in the wiring to the coil itself.

I am sure it is getting fire. I see the spark. All the electrical is new. I'm just buffaloed...Does it matter which way the distributor is rotated as long as TDC fire and no. 1 rotor are in place correctly, and everything is wired correctly? I think this is a timing issue.

Could be a timing issue. I have had mine do the same, only mine was barely firing, so I either retarded or advanced(I can't remember) the distibutor and it fired up and stayed long enough for me to time it correctly.

The distributor rotates clockwise, as you know. It is probably easiest to have somebody crank it for you while you rotate the distributor around until it fires. You can also use a timing light to see when it is firing while cranking even if it won't start.

Usually if it is too far advanced it will slow the starter down as it tries to fire.

If you've been trying for a while you might want to dry out the spark plugs- especially if they weren't replaced. You may just have fouled them.

Im at my wits end here. I've done everything two and three times, so far as watching the valves, positioning the rotor, rotating distributor, etc. I stuck the no. 1 plug wire over the rotor, then following clockwise beside that with 5,3,6,2,4. NO START tries, but doesn't. I pulled all plugs and watched them fire against the head, one by one. Yes, a little carbon, but the plugs are brand new. so, am I correct to say, if there is a spark making its way to the head, then the %$&#@ thing should fire ????!! That takes us back to timing, doesn't it? I thought I took care of that by watching valves, feeling rush of air, installting distributor, rotor, etc. I will say this. Yesterday, I had a powerfull backfire at one time while I was fooling with it. could something have been damaged ??? coil, maybe??

J.D. if ya brought #1 up to compression and aligned the timing mark to TDC. Drop the distributor in where the rotor is lined up with the lug for #1 plug wire. Now just break the points by rotating the housing opposite the distributor shaft rotation, which 4ontheFoor pointed out is CW, lock it down there you have to be with in a few degrees. Finally check your wiring sequence CW around the cap. It should fire there and run pretty smooth. If it doesn't then ya got problems other than ignition timing.
Denny G
Sandwich, IL

Did the compression blow your thumb off the no 1 spark plug hole? If not, it might not have been the compression stroke. Have someone crank it over a time or two so you can make sure. Also make sure the plugs are firing across the gap, not just to from the plug to ground. Its pretty easy to foul the plugs while trying to get something running, I have replaced many sets of plugs that were fouled so bad the engine wouldn't start.

got her figured out by talking to a local mechanic at lunch today. He indicated to me that when you drop the distributor in, you really need to have that rotor end up a little shy of No. 1. In the stovebolt engines, that means 1 or two "teeth" back. I pulled the distributor and experimented 1 to two teeth forward, and same distance backward (cc)...of course, you gotta make sure the bottom falls into place on the oil pump drive and this took a little extra time...after trial and error for about 15 minutes, I finally got her to start. Ran real rough at first, but then better.....Hard to say really how good she sounds since I blew the mufler up two days ago and now things are pretty loud. The was a good lesson learned anyway and hope others can learn from my experience.

Congratulations!