The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1953 3100 Original 216 - Noisy - Rough Idle.

New truck to me, new user here at SB.
Long time admirer.

Checked the casting and sure enough, it is a 1953 216 - 3835849.

Problem is rough, somewhat noisy idle.
Engine doesn't like to run with choke fully disengaged. It tries to die consistently if choke is pushed in. Needs about 1" out from dash to run. Could this be an idle adjustment screw issue?

Checked plugs and they are all heavily dry-fouled. Guess running rich, could point back to the carb/fuel mix issue. Replacing today with R45 and antiseize and dielectric gel on all ignition connections including coil and distributor.

Old plugs are AC DELCO R45 with green stripes. Distributor is new, points look clean and gapped properly. Wires new.

Another problem is fan blade is EXTREMELY tight and I cannot rotate it all by hand. Would a bad water pump cause this? I am uncertain what else would cause a fan blade to be locked so tight. Comments???

Just got this truck delivered. It was an original shop truck at a dealership. Dealership finally sold out in November 2011 and the president sold the last stock from the dealership including this truck. I am the first private hands since new in 1953. Truck had a "restoration" done about 8 years ago and is very straight, clean and well preserved at least for a good driver.

Spent last 8 years on showroom floor and only used for parades and light work for the owner.

Unfortunately, I fear that more $$$ was spent on the paint, interior, bed, and overall looks and less on the mechanics (especially the engine) unfortunately. Now, I want to even out that score.

Going to try to perform a standard tune-up this week since I am off work. (Perfect timing for my vacation for once!)

Thanks so much to all of the incredibly talented and helpful people here on SB.
Look forward to a fabulous time for years to come...

Cheers,
Saint

Additionally, it runs rough when applying gas pedal, almost missing and shaking a little bit. (when cold in garage) Not smooth. Perhaps this is due to it running cold. Is this normal cold and if not how long to warm up? Just seems to need an adjustment. I have read elsewhere that it might be points. Ideas?

First welcome to the club!!

Glad to see another bolt in good hands. One thing that I see more times than not is a truck with an issue, many parts are thrown at it until the person working on it gives up and asks for help. Kudos to you for asking and you've come to the right place!!

Have you checked the timing, gap spark, and vacuum leaks? These are common culprits to your issue. First check the gap spark by removing the distributor cap and having a buddy crank the engine with the key on. As the rotor spins there should be a nice crisp blue spark at the points. If so, check timing and vacuum leaks.

As for the waterpump, if you remove the fan belt is should spin feely. If not, time for a new pump......

Ok thanks. Additionally, How do check the timing? Something about light tester and steel ball centered somewhere.... Lol.

Also, vacuum leaks checked by spraying wd40 or other chemical near intake and exhaust manifold?

Thanks for the patience and support.

Make sure the firing order is set right. These engines can run even if the firing order is messed up.

I can't remember which mark to use while checking the timing, but the mark is on the flywheel and you'll see the pointer sticking out of a hole on the passenger side of the bellhousing down by the starter.

If you haven't already, get yourself a shop manual and owners manual from one of the parts vendors. They are absolutely invaluable when working on these trucks.

Welcome to the Stovebolt site! Where are the all the pics you've taken?

Good luck, Jeff

I agree with Sweet. Check the vacuum leaks, most likely a missing hose or the wipers not hooked up. Some may not agree on my method of checking for vacuum leaks, I use starting fluid on a cold engine. I spray around the carburetor and all vacuum lines. If the engine revs up, you've found the first leak. Look for open ports on the intake manifold and carburetor too. Lot's of time, it's the hoses to the wipers, they get rotted and are not replaced as they should be. You can experiment by placing a flat piece of cardboard over the carburetor and slowly cover it, if it starts running better, you have a vacuum leak. The other way is to get a vacuum tester, either way works.

Dirty or corroded points will cause it to idle rough too. Replace them or clean them and check the gap. They should gap at about .018-.022 or the size of a matchbook cover. setting points and timing

Setting the idle

Make sure you check any inline gas filters too.

Great info, thanks. Wipers are not connected, didn't even think to check to see if the lines are plugged properly. I don't seen any old wires going to the original canister place for the vacuum wiper assembly. Additionally, I don't even know where they attached to the motor in the first place. Where would I discover this info?

I will then check out the carburetor and cardboard trick.
Thanks again.
Cheers.

Vacuum motors do not have any power wires connected to them. These are vacuum only. Did you mean hoses?

Yes, hoses. Sorry.

Ordering my shop manual today, don't worry. Looks like I have a vacuum line coming off the left side of the intake manifold going through the firewall area into the cab. Assuming this hose is capped off, but no guarantees. Does this need to be removed and if so what is the proper method for sealing this line?

Checking for other leaks now.

Hose goes to wiper switch assembly under dash. Assuming there would have been another line from here to the canister. Also, what position is off on this switch? Would having in the 'on' position produce a leak with nothing attached. The wipers are inoperable at this time with the vacuum canister removed completely.

Ok, I determined which is the ON position and I can still hear the wiper assembly trying to function, so I turned this OFF. No impact on vacuum issue. Sprayed carb cleaner (cold engine) around carb and intake manifold, no changes reported. Let the engine warm up properly after setting idle mixture screw and it will now run with choke pushed completely in. Problem is now I still have major hesitation almost shutter when pushing the gas pedal in. Push it in a few times, it sounds strong, but initially very hesitant and rough. Almost like fuel starvation or misfire.

Determined through looking around also that the gas level line (black line coming from top of assembly) has been cut under the seat, so no gauge for that as well as no movement on the engine temperature. The oil pressure shows about 15 and charging indicator does move to C side as expected. Will need help getting these sorted, but will try the Electrical team for this.

The hose you mention is for the wipers. However, you need to make sure its connected under the dash. Takes a little twisting of the body but it can be done. Or disconnect and the manifold and plug to make certain.

You need a shop manual(if you dont have one) check your timing and check your heat riser under the carb, you need heat at the base of the carb to keep it from freezing up. Cold air, cold fuel=rough running, so make sure the base of the carb is hot and not cold or ice at the base of the carb. BTW get a propane torch, turn it on do not lite it and use it to check for leaks, much safer this way. Have fun

you REALLY need to get the manual, 15 PSI is normal for these engines, and usually the capillary tubes to the temp gage has been broken for 20 years or so. You need to set the timing with the ball on the flywheel (this is one of the reasons you NEED the manual, these things are like nothing you have ever seen) there is at least one link somewhere about setting the timing with a vacuum gage. the wipers work without the vacuum canister, that just makes it work better under acceleration. Replacing them with an electric motor makes them work under acceleration much better. Although many people deal with the vacuum wipers, I prefer not to. As far as manifold heat I put fentons on my truck and have no heat at all and it hasn't run this well for a long time, although it isn't terribly cold out right now. Whatever course of action you take it will be an adventure...

Thanks for the help and patience guys. Manual is on the way! I apologize in advance for my ignorance, but this engine is all new to me.... lol. As an engineer who used to design guidance systems for the military, you think it would come easier..... :-)

Cheers,
Saint

the fan is connected to the engine via the belt, unless the belt is slipping you have to turn the engine too. There is no clutch or thermostatic coupling thing or what ever you call them on this...

Doesn't take rocket science to work on your truck but a good does of common sense is helpful lol. Just keep asking the questions the answer is here..... somewere. have fun

Ok, well I fixed my problems. Nothing money, parts and time will not rectify, huh? Replaced the starter cables, battery cables, grounding straps, and running a new 6V Optima battery. All connections bright and tight. Helped greatly with the slow, grinding type of starting, but still seemed to be running rich and needed 1"-2" of choke at all times.

Decided to rebuild carb yesterday when I noticed black smoke under acceleration and some dripping fuel onto manifold (NOT GOOD!) --- SMOKE!!!
Replaced all gaskets, jets, accelerator pump, springs, check balls, and adjusted float which was very high. (Thinking this was the cause of the rich mixture, plug fouling and black smoke)

Now, idles really low, probably 400-500 if I had to guess without any choke at all after starting. Much improved. Still notice a slight roughness/hesitation under light load, but thinking this may be points/coil or something else electrical related at this point.

Now, have had truck since 12/26/11 when it was delivered and have spent $907.62 on parts with 5 separate orders with classicparts.com ---- Just purchased new wire harness today with new firewall gaskets and clips.

Some might call it a mild obsession, but it remains in my garage for now getting ready for road action, since I don't have it registered due to paperwork required for Louisiana title transfers from out-of-state purchases.

Oh what fun it is....
Thanks for all of the support, advice and guidance that this site has provided over the last few months.

Cheers!

Some might call it a mild obsession? We call it normal behavior for members on this forum.

Since it looks like this is a new-to-you truck, have you inspected, bled, and adjusted the brakes?

Next thing to ask about is your front suspension/steering.

Enjoy yourself, keep working on it, and keep reporting back here with your experiences/questions.

New issue or just normal? Now that the idle is low, it sounds a bit too low. It doesn't sound like an old Stovebolt if you know what I mean. Thoughts?

I think I may need to adjust the idle screw. Additionally, the engine seems to vibrate much more noticeably than before the recent work. Like side to side vibration of the cab/frame that almost seems like out of timing or misfire? It might be just me, but it doesn't seem to idling as smoothly as I think it should.

Ideas???