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| | | Forums66 Topics128,094 Posts1,056,157 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | How did the disc brake quest turn out? I've gotten rather confused with the myraids of comments, ideas, and links. I like the idea of adapting the rotor to an original I beam, almost seems to simple. Did it work or did the idea get scrapped for a P30 swap? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | It is confusing even to me, I've been down a number of paths and none worked out perfect. Here are my most up to date and best organized thoughts. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=725027#Post725027This post in same thread covers single wheel 1 ton's https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=725071#Post725071Main problem with the outlined plan is the axle is still to wide.... 7.35" wider than an original AD 1 ton. Some of that could be made up for with inset wheels, and some wider is OK, there's a little room. As mentioned in the post you could narrow an axle and I've provided the best and simplest way to do it that I can think of but it's not an easy task no matter how you go about it. I'll be doing a version of this with my truck but I already have a narrowed axle that should make it work out for me. Sorry I don't have a perfect solution for everyone. There are numerous threads and ideas (some mine) on using stock axle, spindle, and hub just adapt a rotor and fabricate a caliper bracket. It's been done and it is an OK solution but somehow I don't like it all that much. It's still not a solution for everyone unless someone makes/sells a kit. Grigg | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | Your pictures of the stovebolt axle with the disc mouted on the backside of the hub are inspiring. I've often wondered if it could be done that way. My thoughts are of using a hat style rotor and going over the top of the hub, nonetheless, either way has potential. From what I gather, the kits that convert the 1/2 ton drums to disc aren't exactly perfect either. I believe, I'm going to explore the 8 lug disc conversion on my 3/4 ton once again. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | If that's the method you're after here are the part numbers I found to be the best combo, and they fit in 19.5" wheels with about as big a rotor as you could fit. May or may not fit in a 17" wheel but it's likely.
NAPA part numbers Caliper 242-2174 Rotor 4886324
You'll need to make a ring to press on the hub and center the rotor, it'll fit on the inside of the hub. You'd need to fabricate caliper brackets.
Good luck, Grigg
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | Thanks, I think my next move is to take my toolbox to the salvage yard and do some wrenching/removing. BTW> Why won't they fit in a 17" wheel. I thought most mid 90's Chev's had 16" wheels to begin with? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I'm uploading pictures now, http://rides.webshots.com/album/582194854SNgLnWI expect they will fit in a 17" wheel but it'll be close and is worth checking. It's only 1/2" clearance on the 19.5" NAPCO wheels I have, see the pictures. You may find a smaller diameter rotor with the same other dimensions, I didn't look because I wanted as large a disc as I could fit. Grigg | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | Thanks for the pics. I currently have 16" Ford Van wheels on the truck, but I'll definately have to check clearances before I do anything. On the subject of wheel studs- I looks as though, they would need to be pressed into the rotor and through the hub. So they are going to need a substantial shoulder area. My concern is with the integrity of the rotor. There isn't alot of material between the holes and the inside edge of the rotor. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | The rotor was made to have studs pressed in it to start with, don't worry about it.
You will likely need to open the holes in the hubs to fit the appropriate stud for the rotor, a good time/reason to switch to the later model larger wheel studs.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | I downloaded the Dorman catalog awhile back. You wouldn't believe all of the different wheel studs available. I'm sure I can find something. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 237 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 237 | I got lucky with my 1941 1 Ton Pickup. After doing my parts research I found that the 1941 1 Ton had basically the same front end parts as the 1/2 & 3/4 ton pick ups of that same year.
I gambled and ordered a 1/2 ton disc brake set from Jim Carter.
Lo and behold it bolted right up. I am using an original 17 inch 6 lug wheel to keep everything original.
Some people might question the use of a 1/2 ton disk brake on a 1 ton truck but my feeling is that anything is better than the old drum units.
I also went to a firewall mounted booster and dual chamber master cylinder.
When my rear end was built I added larger drum brakes and a 3.73 rear end. Gives me 70 mph at 2,000 rpm. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 32 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 32 | Murraydave that's what I have in mind for my '48. I've already mounted the 1/2 ton axle and disc setup on the front. Still getting to the 3.73 rear end but I wasn't sure what kind of rpm s I would be turning how tall are your tires? My truck is still way far from done but I'm hoping to put taller 31" tires on a 6 lug wheels. I don't know what wheel size yet 15" 16" 17" to get me to 31" or more but you give me hope, Jim D | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | 48 and later 3/4, 1, and 1.5 ton have the same axle beam which is noticeably larger than a 1/2 ton. 1/2 ton spindles won't fit on the larger truck I-beams.
Some people swap whole 1/2 ton axles under the 3/4 or 1 ton but then you've got a 1/2 ton truck...
The idea of using 1 ton stuff and adapting large disc brakes is to have an axle suitable for holding up and stopping a working 1 ton truck.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 235 | I just rebuilt the font end n my 1 ton a couple months ago, so I finally got a chance to see everything in perspective. I like the rotor you have picked out for your conversion but I was wondering what that caliper comes from? It looks like a single, albeit huge, piston caliper. If you used a smaller body multi piston caliper, there'd be more room I think.. I don't have a spare 1 ton spindle and hub laying around. I was thinking 4 piston brembo units which come n several euro and Japanese "high performance" cars and are easily and cheaply obtained. We had major clearance issues on a car I put six pot brembos on and had to run wheels with almost no drop center to gate things to clear. ( fun mounting big 19" race rubber with out a drop center) Anyway, before someone poo poos the idea of car brakes on their truck, these cars easily go three times faster than our trucks...
Jeremy | | |
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