The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop intake/exhaust torque specs & sealant question

I have searched thru my shop manual, operators manual, and assembly manual looking for the torque specs for the intake/exhaust manifold, as well as the heat riser portion, for my '48 235 motor.
On the Remflex gasket site they say their gaskets require less torque then stock so they are suggesting 14-18 using their product. I am using standard metal style gaskets, what should they be torqued to 25-30ft lb's?
I know the opinions very about the use of ultra copper on the intake/exhaust gasket. I am planning on using ultra copper on both sides of my i/e gasket as well as both sides of my heat riser gasket. I have read a great deal of the archives and I did not see any negative effects to doing this. After the H/R surfaces were cleaned I can feel a lot of imperfections along its surface, the ultra copper seems like a cost effective solution knowing if I can not get a good seal I will need to have it plained or decked. Here is a picture of my Heat Riser.
Does anyone know of any problems, or do you have any suggestions. I am aware that the heat riser should be loosely together, then tightened after the i/e has been snugged up to the head.

i have been a caterpillar tech for 18 years. the torque is based on bolt diameter rather than the gasket material. 3/8 coarse thread bolts torque at 35-38 ft/lbs. there are charts for such things like fine thread and so on.

step 18
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0613.htm

torque specs
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0648.htm

per above
15-20 ft/lbs for center manifold clamp bolts
25-30 ft/lbs for end manifold clamp bolts

I torqued my heat riser bolts to 30 ft/lbs

I have used the copper type RTV many times on 6 cyl. manifolds when the surfaces are not perfect. I have had good results with it.

Thank you everyone for your input. I had no responses before I reassembled so I applied the ultra copper as stated and torqued the few bolts I could get to with my torque wrench at 20ft lb then hand tightened all of them to a uniform feel. She started right up and low and behold No intake or exhaust leaks!! Now that my governor is removed there is a decent increase in the overall throttle response as well! While I had the manifolds apart I took the time to make sure my heat riser spring was wound properly and working correctly.
I have this site to thank for all of the advice and tips that I utilized to bring her back to this condition. Thanks again!