The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop LS-1 Question

I am going to be installing a LS-1 engine and 4L60E transmission out of a 2000 Camaro SS into my 1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup. My question is, will the original radiator be heavy enough to cool the V-8? I will be installing a stand-alone trans cooler so that won't be an issue. I also plan on installing air-conditioning. Has anyone here done this engine swap? Thanks, Al.

Hy radiowaves88, I think the rad would handle the cooling size wise, but remember these were zero pressure radiators. I would use a rad made to fit in the yoke, but designed for a pressurized cooling system, hope that helps.

I have a 383 in a fiero and I can tell you that the orignial radiator is not enough. Get the biggest aluminaum rad from Jegs or Summit that will fit. You also must have a working fan shroud. You want to be able to take that truck into city traffic on a 100deg. day and not to worry. The fuel injected engines run naturally hot, so be prepared.

I would run electric cooling fans. Also the LS1 and all 3rd gen smallblocks have a reverse flow cooling system. You may want to keep the jug off the doner car.

The LS1 has aluminum block & heads. It is easier to cool than an iron V8. Try your current radiator and use a good gauge.
Cheers,
mv

I would without question put in the biggest radiator that would fit. Get as many fins per inch as you can. Makes a big difference in the cooling capabilities. Preferably a aluminum 3 row. Add some Water Wetter by Redline, about 2-3 bottles and enjoy. I would not run a high pressure cap. Use a 9-11 lb cap. For every pound of pressure you raise the radiator temp 2 degrees. Also Prestone makes an irridecent green additive that works good like the Redline. I use either and have very good results. Not snake oil or a gimmick. I live in a Hot summer climate. 90s to over 100 degrees. It makes your antifreese remove the heat faster as it goes through the radiator. Have fun! An large cooling fan may be necessary but with what I suggested you should not need it. Kind of a last resort type of thing. One other thing, they do make a High efficiencey aluminum water pump thats moves more coolant. Not cheap but with what you have already spent, it won't be too bad. They do really work even on H.O. racing engines. Don't forget the shroud if you can put one in there. Don't use those super small blade fans. They look cute but don't work very well especially in traffic or on V8s very well. Seen several of them. Good for a high rpm ( Jap crap ) small motor perhaps but I would not put one on my V8s that I have. Get a REAL fan if you use one. 5 or 6 blade full size.

The radiator must be sized to handle the heat of the engine,heat is created by the fuel burn,the more fuel,the more power and more heat.
99 percent of the time your LS1 will be producing very little power to pull the truck at legal speeds.And like mentioned above,the modern engine deals with heat rejection better than the original engine.The engineers back then sized to cooling system to handle the maybe 80 actual hp ,and being a truck,they most likely figured it would be pulling a load frequently.
I would say a stock type radiator if it can handle being pressurized to modern standards will be ok.More important,again mentioned above,is having enough cooling fan air flow at low speeds.

Radiowaves88,
Something else to consider is the inlet and the outlet , they are both on the passenger side.You can always move the neck on your top tank as I'm going to do.I have a 6.0 Gen III and I'm using a 65 Burb radiator, and shroud along with the 2006 clutch fan .Beats the heck out of $400 for a new radiator.If it works great if not I'll try something else.Good luck