The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carter YF 2100S rebuild questions

After some searching I have located a Carter YF 2100s carb for my '53 235 Poweglide Engine. I have not worked on one of these before.

I would like to get some advice as to rebuild procedures, source of repair parts and answers to a few questions. Thanks in advance.

1. It seems that the carb spent some time in a shed, and the cast iron base and other lower parts are a bit rusty. The idle screw is stuck, and I would like to know how I might get it unstuck. Can I apply heat? I would take the base off first.

Picture of carb/stuck idle screw

2. I noticed a hole in the side of the carb, just below where the air cleaner fits. Is this a vent? Or should a plug go here?

Picture of hole.

3. There is a plug of some kind next to the vacuum port. There is a small gap between the head of the plug and body of the carb. Not to worry? is this a press fit or thread?

Picture of gap.

4. The small rod the should connect the throttle shaft to what I presume to be the accelerator pump is broken/missing. Anybody know of a source for these or have a spare?

Picture of missing rod location.

5. There appears to be a slot or hole in the throat of the carb near the throttle butterfly. Or is this a sand hole? Also, throttle butterfly is rusty, throttle shaft is somewhat worn. Any suggestions on where to get a new shaft/butterfly?

picture of slot.

Any info on rebuilding this carb would be much appreciated. I would like to study on this a bit before I take it apart. I plan to photograph the rebuild and write up a little how-to if all goes well. If it dosn't go well, I will write up a how-not-to. LOL

Kurt

1. That's a cast iron throttle body, so a little heat won't hurt it- - - -but soak the idle screw with a good penetrant like PB Blaster or Kroil for several days before you try heat. A slight warm-up with a Propane torch shouldn't damage things if the Kroil doesn't do the job.

2. The hole is a float bowl vent. Leave it open.

3. That plug was installed to block off a drilled hole during manufacturing. The gap doesn't hurt anything.

4. Contact Carb King on this site. His shop has been a Carter-authorized rebuilder since those carbs were new. He can supply that link, I'm pretty sure.

5. The slot is part of the idle and/or distributor vacuum advance system. It's definitely supposed to look that way, only clean. Get rid of the rust carefully, and things should work well.

Here's an old slogan from the 1940's and 50's- - - -"The ABC's of carburetion- - - Always Buy Carter!" Once you get a good-working Carter carb on a stovebolt engine, you'll throw rocks at a Rochester!
Jerry

Here is a pic of that rod (on a CARTER YF787s)
...pic...

...pic...


...link...

HRL suggest contacting carb king... here is his web site ...link...
I have purchased a Carter Rebuild kit from him in the past and it did contain that broken rod of yours

Some of the older NOS Carter kits on ebay may have that hardware.

Good Luck

Thanks.

I have found some info about how to disassemble the Carter YF. It mentions removing the screws holding the throttle butterfly so that the throttle shaft can be removed. On my carb, these screws look to be rather aggressively staked to the throttle shaft. I am guessing I will need to remove the screws as part of the procedure to install new dust seals at the shaft ends.

I'm thinking if I can get these screws out, they will not be suitable for re-use. Would the carb-king be the goto man for new screws? Or what is your experience with these screws?

Thanks,

Kurt

If you plan to remove the throttle plate, grind the peened-over end off the screws with a Dremel tool before trying to remove them or you'll ruin the throttle shaft and/or break the screw before it comes out. The screws are peened to keep them from dropping into the engine in case one gets loose.
Jerry

New Question.

I have the carb mostly disassembled and cleaned. I have not yet been able to slide the diaphram/shaft out of the pump body/top. It seems really siezed to the pot metal or whatever it is made of. Or am I missing something?

Would like to know if anybody has had this problem, and what they did about it that worked? I am somewhat reluctant to apply heat. I guess I could try to cut it off and drill it out.

There is also a small hole in the pump body top, which I assume is the inlet. Would there be a check valve in this hole?

Here is a picture.

Thanks a lot.

Kurt

I had the same problem. Soaked it good and jsut kept working the shaft until it moved. I would not use heat. Not sure about a check valve.

If I remember correctly there is a caged ball in that hole acting as a check valve for the inlet.

I used a heat gun, doesn't get that much heat but it seems to make the penatrating oil work better, just be patient, it will free up, now shaft and diaphragm comes with the rebuild kit.

I'll have pictures of my spare carb coming soon, I have it at the house. Dave

I like the idea of the heat gun. I have a model I use for paint stripping. I'm going to let it soak all day in the carb cleaner (which dosn't seem to clean much), and then try that trick.

I have a little ultrasonic cleaner that we used to use to clean Rapidiograph points, back when we still drew on paper. I might give that a shot too.

Thanks for the pictures.

Kurt

I have had good sucess soaking small rusty parts in this stuff

White viniger works just as well. Then a blast of kroil.

Were you able to locate this pin?
I have a spare "USED" one I can mail to you if you need it. Just send me a P.M.

I called the carb king and he said that the 2100s kit did have that part. I have not ordered the kit yet, because I have not yet been able to remove the idle screw, and I have not been able to remove the diaphram rod.

The idle screw seemed like it was turning a bit, and I was working it back and forth. Then the head snapped off. I thought I might spot weld a nut on it and try again. The screw is made from steel, although the replacements are brass.

Thanks for the offer on the rod. I may take you up on it depending upon how things go.

Kurt

First I want to thank all who have been giving me such good advice. I have been making good progress on the rebuild of my Carter YF 2100S.

I thought I would share some photos of my progress.

I was able to get the accelerator pump/diaphram shaft unstuck with the help of homer52 and others. It was really seized. I cleaned it, soaked it, and saturated it with penetrating oil. The key was finally getting it set up properly so I could tap it the right way.

Picture of setup.

I was also able to finally get the rusted idle needle out of the carb throttle body. I know many of the needles are brass, but this one was steel. Maybe due to the Korean war? The head was snapped off, so I brazed a nut on the end, and also heated the carb throttle body with a torch. I was then able to turn it out. It was very corroded.

Picture of nut brazed to idle screw before removal.

Idle screw after removal. Note corrosion.

I was also able to repair the small rod that connects the throttle shaft to the accelerator pump lift by brazing the broken parts together. Maybe it will hold.

Photo of repair to rod.

I cleaned many of the small parts with an old ultrasonic cleaner used for rapidiograph pen points. White vinegar seems to work well.

ultrasonic cleaner.

The last picture I have is of the lower carb body. There seems to be three jets that maybe should be removed. I don't have the rebuild kit yet, so I don't know if I should try to remove them.

Any advice here?

Location of jets in question.

Thanks for all the help, and I hope you enjoy the pictures!

Kurt

The only one I did not remove was the one in the venturi, I'm not positive if they were all in the rebuild kit or not. Dave

Just as homer52 posted I only removed the metering rod and low speed jets.

Step 10

...my pic...

Step 11

...my pic...
________________________________________________

jet pic

jet pic

I removed the jets then placed the body in the the carb cleaner, after cleaning I ran a bunch of air through the passages.
(My pics are of a YF787s)


Nice Pics you have

Thanks guys for the good info and pictures. I'll soon be ready for reassembly after I get the kit and salvage a few parts from the carb that Dave (homer52) is very kindly sending me.

Kurt

Kurt, did you ever find any Carter YF 2100s service literature?

Or, if anyone else has the Carter sheets I'd sure like to have a copy. I'm not talking about
the sheet that comes in the Jiffy kit, I'm looking for the Carter service literature.

Denny G

Denny,

Nothing specific to the 2100S, but here is a link to a Carter YF service manual on my server which is useful.

carter yf service manual

The sheet that came with the 2100S Walker kit was actually pretty useful. I will scan and post it if you like.

If you do find something dead nuts specific to the 2100S I'd like a copy too.

Kurt

I scanned what I have from a NOS kit I bought a while ago. Its for the YF787s,
sheet 1
sheet 2
sheet 3
sheet 4
sheet 5

Might be hard to view on line, use the zoom feature of just print. I dont know how to upload a pdf to picasa

Thanks Kurt I'll add that to my files, but I was looking for the
2100s sheets specificly. Seems there are service sheets for
every Carter floating around except the 2100s.
I've got at dvd that has a bunch of the older YF sheets in it
but again, nothing for the 2100s.

Hey Gus, thanks for scanning those for me. Looks similar to the sheets in the Hygrade kit I've got only it doesn't say Carter on mine.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

only one sheet

http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=15977

Hey DADS50, thanks for that!


Kurt

I just found that link the other day.
I found out if you search under CARbureTER (spelling) you get other results.