The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Heater Question?

I did not know where to put this so I'll drop it here.

I was able to remove the heater assembly and dismount the motor and fan. I had a spare motor and it bolts up with no problem.

I removed the heater core and will want to have it checked or just replace it. Most of the parts houses have the correct replacement unit.

HOWEVER, the long tube on the core has some sort of factory installed heater thermostat with a copper coils wire that rest infornt of the core(I asume it a thermostat switch) None of the new units come with this set up. Any of you seem this in your trucks? How do you replace this?

I'll try to post a picture in my webshots album over the week end.

that's a thermostatic Ranco valve - GM quit using the capillary tube on them cuz they don't last - you should be able to find a manual one, or have that one rebuilt, this guy can fix you up , might even have a new one

Bill

Red58,

When you say the "Manual One" Would you be talking about one of these?

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HSW0063

Thanks
Jake

no Jake, that's the fan switch ... maybe it's not a Ranco there [thermostatic water control], but an electric thermostat ... guess we need the pic!

Bill

Yeah the early(60-62 or maybe even mid-63) 60s trucks use the Ranco valve, pretty sure it is the same(or at least very very close)as the Task Force unit, most vendors/manufacturers ignore the minor differences among the 60-62 trucks & sell/make only 2 heater core styles(deluxe & std) IIRC-basically the 64-66 heater core "fits" all the trucks 60-66, but really there is a difference(as you know). I don't think the early & later cores will interchange w/o modification, but a later heater unit will bolt right in place of the early unit.

Red,

Your link is dead on thats the type of this I have. Most of the truck restoration sites have the core with the right dementions (WxLxH), but what would I use to replace the older Ranco thermostat? Can you even replace it? I figure this has had to come up before out there some where.

he sez he has new valves for all 50-75 trucks, might get one from him if they're not too pricey

found another possible source for ya - inquire if they fit trucks

Bill

Oldfactory Air rebuilds these type of control valves $75.0.0 This will need to wait till next month, but at least I found a source for repair. BTW I was told that I could not use another type of heater control, but I doubt that is true. Have any of you folks had thi set up?

Jake

On the later truck they just deleted it, temperature control is thru the heater fan speed &(on the deluxe) the air door.

you can get a valve [NAPA] that is just a cable controlled flow valve [restrictor] that can shut the water off altogether - mounts under the hood to avoid the leaks in the cab that ended the thermostat style - like this on a buddy's truck

Bill

Yeppers, tell them you need one for a 68-72 Ford pickup, it will be for 5/8 hose & look like the one Bill posted.

If I understand what your saying, is if I need the heater to keep me warm I would open "the" valve and the hot water would flow normally, and when not needed (summer) I simply close off the valve.

Sorry for being dense, but this is a first for me.

In this picture, you can see where the PO had installed a Prestone flush and fill devise.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2144250750054402330lWbUcu

But the correct valve waould go somewhere on the hose?

yes, you could put the valve there, or closer to the firewall, easier to run it with a cable, and yes, the valve can be opened alla way for max heat, less for less heat [restricting the flow], closed for no heat ... works quite well, and about the same as the Ranco, just not automatic [but cheaper!]

Bill

Bill, would you have a part number by chance. I like the idea of having the right switch in place, but down here I'd never use it much, I hate to waste the money on this. I would not mind putting in the valve. What is the cable you speak of, a way to open the valve from inside the cab?

Thanks
Jake

no p/n off hand, but it would be a 'remote water control' or like that ... the cable on that one is hooked to the heater control ["temp"] that the Ranco used, like the original ones yours should use

Bill

Bill, I can get those parts and may already them them in my parts container (hopefully they they survived Katrina? I'll do some searching for the "Remote Water Control". I may just break down and have the switch reworked. But I need the core done also.

Thanks
Jake

I believe the part you are looking for is GM part # 3857131. I have them on my '56 and also my wife's '67 Impala SS to shut off hot water to the heaters during the summer and they work well. Depending on where you get them they should be $30 to $40 each. You might try www.gmpartsdirect.com.

YOU GENTELEMEN HAVE SOME GOOD IDEAS BUT WHAT ABOUT INSTALLING THE COMMON 64 TO 66 CORE GO TO THE PLUMBING SECTION OF HOME DEPOT OR A HARDWARE STORE OF YOUR CHOICE AND BUY TWO INEXPENSIVE 5/8 INLINE BALLCOCK VALVES & INSTALL THEM ONE IN EAC HEATER HOSE . BIG DIESELS USE A SIMILAR SET UP IT IS SIMPLE & IDIOT PROOF .

I'll probaly go with a simple shut off valve on the hose close to the fire wall. I'll try to check out what some of the clun membes have along this line.

Thanks
Jake

Hi Folks,

Look what I found on Ebay, I bought it as a back up on the Ranco valve. I never though I find one on Ebay as thay have never been in use for a while. New ones cost $75.00.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...gory0%3D%26fvi%3D1&item=160154688344