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| | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Ok, I am trying to move forward again on my suburban rebuild. What stainless brake line venders do you recommend? I am using a 1954 frame with front disc brakes, a CCP power brake unit (frame mounted) and a 1959 Chevrolet truck rear end. I want to use pre-bent stainless steel lines if possible. I know I can bend them myself, but I have had a hard time focusing on this build and don't need another distraction at this time. Any pointers I should know about? What other parts will I need to finish the brake installation? Thanks | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy again GMONIZ, I don't know if anyone would make a kit for such an installation, but my first thought would be to contact CPP, where you would place your combination valve would be dictated by the line kit, if one exists for the different components. I don't know how much difference there is between the original rear axle brake line connection and the connection on the 1959 rear axle housing, please let us know what you find. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | Thanks, I will look again at their catalog and see what they have. they are not the fastest when answering questions. I know other's have completed their brake installation and I was hoping this would chime in too. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | George,
It is my understanding stainless brakes use a different flaring angle. If you have to make your own lines, you would need a special stainless brake flaring tool.
My $.02 you will be time and money ahead using off the shelf lines.
John | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,780 | john, do you mean pre-bent off the shelf lines or lengths of lines bent on site? You know what I have, what's your recommendation? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | Get the straight tube from Brown's Auto supply, and cut and bend as necessary. The lines are fairly soft and forgiving. Estimated cost of all lines fittings and hoses needed is less than $100... depending on the size of the bone pile.  I count the following brake lines you need: Forward of MC to LF wheel Junction block LF wheel junction block to RF wheel. ( usually runs across crossmember) Rear of MC to rear axle. (This one will likely have a coupler in it for length, and a flexible hose to go to the junction block on the axle. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Couple quick things..
SS brake lines use the same fittings and flare angle as stock, usually 45°.
SS is hard to flare and bend, I've done it and it does work with GOOD tools.
I now exclusively use and recommend copper nickel brake lines. So much EASIER to work with. Most any autoparts store can get it these days, for example try part number CNC-325 for twenty five feet of 3/16". Other sizes up to 3/8" available.
Grigg | | |
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