The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Tie Rod Ends Not Tapered?? 1946 3/4 Ton

The truck I just purchased came with a set of tie rod ends. I went and replaced the Left/driver side. The one that screwed on that side had a piece of tape on it that said "not tapered" The right side one looks to be tapered. These are not OE replacement ends. They are the more modern ones.
Do I need to take the not tapered one off and get a tapered one for that side?

Thanks, Dan

Maybe I'm mistaken about what exactally is tapered? Is it the part that drops down the steering arm? I'll shoot some pictures and show what I have.

This what I have.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/daniel1060/46GMC027.jpg
The old ones.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/daniel1060/46GMC028.jpg

The new one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v617/daniel1060/46GMC031.jpg
Arm.

Mine is not like this in the tip

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/tie_rod_replacement.html

The picture there shows the shank coming up from the bottom. Mine on the 46 drops in from the top. The rod ends came out just fine.

I don't understand what may need peening???

Also I just took a look at me tie rod and I see it is bent a little. Is this the reason my steering is messed up?

The "bend" in the steering arm is probably supposed to be there. If things are aligned properly, an imaginary line drawn from the kingpin to the center of the rear axle should cross the hole in the tie rod with the front wheels pointed straight ahead. As the front wheels turn away from straight ahead, this angle causes the wheel on the inside of the turn to make a shorter turn, called the "Ackerman" angle. If the Ackerman is incorrect, the tires scrub in a turn and the driver has to fight the wheel.
Jerry

Edit: The tie rod should be straight. I was thinking of the bend that's usually present in the steering arms.
Jerry

$46 bucks I'll just get a new tie rod and be done with that.

I still don't understand what the question is and not sure the replies you've gotten are related to what you're asking.

Not sure how a new tie rod would change anything, it's a straight rod that the ends screw on, pretty simple.

Can you clarify what you're talking about and asking? Instead of saying "old ones" and "what I have" use part names, tie rod end, steering arm, tie rod, and so on, it'll help us get a better idea what's up.

Okay I'm trying to replace my original tie rod ends. On my 1946 3/4 ton GMC Not just the studs. The originals are obviously tapered. I was not aware that there were both tapered and not tapered when I put the new end on yesterday. Since then I have learned that if I want new tie rod ends on a 1946 3/4 ton GMC you need to replace the stud. The new replacement ends all come with straight studs. At least I cant find any for a 3/4 ton GMC that have tapered studs on them.
I wasn't prepared to do all the work needed to rebuild the ends so I was going to just replace the whole unit. My truck came with a set of new ends in the box of parts. Since my steering is jerky, and the steering box has been gone over, I thought I would put the new ends on. It now makes sense That they were never installed. They are the wrong part!


Now If anyone knows where to get a tie rod end replacement with tapered studs on them PLEASE tell me.

The rod itself has some slight bends in it. Not really very noticeable. I've eared that it is Kay to keep it the way it is.

Okie dokie.

When I did the tie rod ends on my 1-ton, the ones I bought at FLAPS were tapered. They dropped in from the top - The tie-rod sat on top of the steering spindle arms.

The old tie rod ends are easy to rebuild, just like rebuilding the drag link. In fact, you may find that you don't need to buy a rebuild kit, you might just be able to screw the ends in a turn or two tighter. For this, you will need a "drag link socket", you can buy it at flaps, its just a giant flat blade driver, that goes on the end of your ratchet. I had to buy a 1" to do the drag link on my 1-ton.

You can take the old tie-rod ends apart to see if you need a rebuild kit, also by using the drag link socket.

I like the way the old tie rod ends look, although I believe they stick out to far for modes wheels and tires, but I also like the tall skinny tires.

It really isn't much work to put new guts in the tie rod ends, just get the big 1" drag link socket, and a half inch break-over bar, as those springs are pretty darn stiff.

If you have the truck on the floor, and stick your head under it, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth, and you can see where the play is in the steering.

Hope that helps.